PRICE CHECK

I84885 said:
Thank you it currently has a dual master cylinder but the brake booster doest look in the best of shape. But its working. No I don't plan on driving in any large puddles lol but I am in Florida we get heavy rain every day starting at 4pm. But once again thank you for your advice it will save me and my bank account alot of grief. So I will just make sure my drum set up is sound and I should be good to go
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Interesting thread. My 2 cents:
Discs are superior in every way, period. #1...easier to service, fewer parts.
#2...better heat dissipation...Brakes work as heat sinks, converting kinetic energy to thermal and radiating it away. Discs do that better. As to the master cyl., the one you have (drum-type) isn't the same as disc/drum MC...differences in reservoir size & capacity. Also, in Rick Ehrenberg's "Disc-O-Tech" treatise he mentions adapting the later 2 bolt aluminum MC's to the swap. I have a couple laying around, and will post my findings when I do the conversion.
The swap seems to be a straight forward spindle swap and normal assembly...again, according to Ehrenberg. I am now waiting for mine to be delivered from DVAP...harvested from a 73 Newport.
I realize, and respect that some of you do not like to deviate from "stock/factory" equipment. I am just not of that camp. I intend to drive my car ALOT...and I want the best equipment/system components to support that use.
Using upgraded factory components seems logical to me.
Give the conversion a try yourself...if you can change a ball joint, you can do it.
Also, the Scarebird convertion is WAY cheaper than what you quoted...and NO spindle swap required...
 
RiccoH said:
Interesting thread. My 2 cents:
Discs are superior in every way, period. #1...easier to service, fewer parts.
#2...better heat dissipation...Brakes work as heat sinks, converting kinetic energy to thermal and radiating it away. Discs do that better. As to the master cyl., the one you have (drum-type) isn't the same as disc/drum MC...differences in reservoir size & capacity. Also, in Rick Ehrenberg's "Disc-O-Tech" treatise he mentions adapting the later 2 bolt aluminum MC's to the swap. I have a couple laying around, and will post my findings when I do the conversion.
The swap seems to be a straight forward spindle swap and normal assembly...again, according to Ehrenberg. I am now waiting for mine to be delivered from DVAP...harvested from a 73 Newport.
I realize, and respect that some of you do not like to deviate from "stock/factory" equipment. I am just not of that camp. I intend to drive my car ALOT...and I want the best equipment/system components to support that use.
Using upgraded factory components seems logical to me.
Give the conversion a try yourself...if you can change a ball joint, you can do it.
Also, the Scarebird convertion is WAY cheaper than what you quoted...and NO spindle swap required...
Click to expand...
The scarebird I was quoted was the kit with the booster and MC included as far as the installment quote that was from a classic car restorer I felt that was way to high but the classic car restores in fla think that everything they touch turns to gold and its getting hard to find a regular mechanic to work on these cars of this era
 
I84885 said:
scarebird
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From what I've read, Scarebird is a good name for that company, especially the "scare" part.

They do get some conversions right, but I've read some stories about their stuff not being robust enough. I looked over a few of their offerings and quite frankly, I didn't like the designs on some. Mainly, the mounting bracket being a bit too thin with things like a 3/8" bolt threaded into a 1/4" plate. Someone here had brackets that cracked too. (can't remember the screen name).

Some guys have had good luck and that's great.... Just telling what I've read and seen.
 
Just my "2 cents" ... I always look at the cost or consequence of failure when it comes to attempting a repair/modification myself or hiring a professional. A brake failure will likely result in serious injury, death, or at a minimum significant property damage to your car and other stationary objects. Personally, I would hire a competent professional. Granted, there are many on this site who are highly skilled when it comes to working on cars. Regrettably, I am not one of them. I am a retired CPA, so I can easily deal with IRS audits, preparing complex tax returns and a variety of legal paperwork that many grown men would run from. We are all good at different things. But, a disc brake conversion absent super detailed instructions would give me pause. Whenever part of the instructions include "fabricate" ... well, I'm likely done. Again, I have the privilege of knowing others who have incredible skills and knowledge when it comes to working on cars, just not me.

Maybe talk to a few shops locally to see if that is the going price where you live? Yes, some shops do price high if they don't really want the work and others low ball and then once your car is there and apart find a way to make a few extra bucks.

One last piece of advice: I would have the shop (if you go that route) purchase the kit so they warranty both the parts and labor. I made the costly mistake of purchasing a full front disc conversion kit from a well-known vendor for my '69 B Body and took it to a very reputable local shop for the install. Sadly, there were some problems, the shop and vendor blamed each other and in the end I was left holding the bag.
 
69SportSatellite said:
Just my "2 cents" ... I always look at the cost or consequence of failure when it comes to attempting a repair/modification myself or hiring a professional. A brake failure will likely result in serious injury, death, or at a minimum significant property damage to your car and other stationary objects. Personally, I would hire a competent professional. Granted, there are many on this site who are highly skilled when it comes to working on cars. Regrettably, I am not one of them. I am a retired CPA, so I can easily deal with IRS audits, preparing complex tax returns and a variety of legal paperwork that many grown men would run from. We are all good at different things. But, a disc brake conversion absent super detailed instructions would give me pause. Whenever part of the instructions include "fabricate" ... well, I'm likely done. Again, I have the privilege of knowing others who have incredible skills and knowledge when it comes to working on cars, just not me.

Maybe talk to a few shops locally to see if that is the going price where you live? Yes, some shops do price high if they don't really want the work and others low ball and then once your car is there and apart find a way to make a few extra bucks.

One last piece of advice: I would have the shop (if you go that route) purchase the kit so they warranty both the parts and labor. I made the costly mistake of purchasing a full front disc conversion kit from a well-known vendor for my '69 B Body and took it to a very reputable local shop for the install. Sadly, there were some problems, the shop and vendor blamed each other and in the end I was left holding the bag.
Click to expand...
Oh wow thanks for the advice if I let the shop purchase the kit do they usually do an upcharge. I'm willing to pay as long as it is reasonable In your opinion what you feel comfortable in paying for the work alone?
 
I84885 said:
Oh wow thanks for the advice if I let the shop purchase the kit do they usually do an upcharge. I'm willing to pay as long as it is reasonable In your opinion what you feel comfortable in paying for the work alone?
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Where I live (California) everything is expensive, but depending on the work, I think $1,500 - $2,000 for labor might be fair? I'm thinking the work involved for each car is somewhat different. Definitely go with a shop that has experience working on Mopars. I would need to see the hourly rate and time involved. Yes, they do an upcharge but my understanding is that the upcharge is to cover the cost of their providing the warranty labor for free if something goes wrong with the manufacturer's parts. A small insurance policy as it were.
 
69SportSatellite said:
Where I live (California) everything is expensive, but depending on the work, I think $1,500 - $2,000 for labor might be fair? I'm thinking the work involved for each car is somewhat different. Definitely go with a shop that has experience working on Mopars. I would need to see the hourly rate and time involved. Yes, they do an upcharge but my understanding is that the upcharge is to cover the cost of their providing the warranty labor for free if something goes wrong with the manufacturer's parts. A small insurance policy as it were.
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Ok got it thank you so much I'm in Florida. Will keep you posted
 
A disc brake conversion isn't that complicated, a couple more bolts than changing pads. But if you're not comfortable, then definitely farm it out. I'd ask around at different shops, that first quote you got is way too high. I'd gladly do it for $4k, get a trip to Florida, and still have a few dollars left over.
 
LocuMob said:
A disc brake conversion isn't that complicated, a couple more bolts than changing pads. But if you're not comfortable, then definitely farm it out. I'd ask around at different shops, that first quote you got is way too high. I'd gladly do it for $4k, get a trip to Florida, and still have a few dollars left over.
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When I had my conversion done, we went from manual to power so there was more work involved, but yes, $4K might be a bit high...
 
New drums with the proper linings/new hardware/proper set up using
SEMI METALLIC or better yet CARBON METALLIC linings would yeild superior results and not break the bank. I don't understand how you all run past the simplest and most effective upgrade for brakes. Whisky tango foxtrot. With this set up a mountain pass would not be a problem. I have done a number of drum brake cars using both types of linings and the brakes STOP the car. No one ever complained but was amazed. The smart people that ask me for advice and follow it have done the same and never looked back. ???????????????????????????
 
I84885 said:
When you say full kit are you referring to front and rear disc?
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$5k is too much to pay for the wilwood setup. I bought mine new for around $3k front wilwood 6 piston/rear 4 piston with 12.19" rotor kits with LEED brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve kit.
 
HOT FURY said:
$5k is too much to pay for the wilwood setup. I bought mine new for around $3k front wilwood 6 piston/rear 4 piston with 12.19" rotor kits with LEED brake booster, master cylinder, proportioning valve kit.
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That 3K. Was that the kit and installation
 
I don't suppose anyone knows a shop around Lansing, MI that would do this? I'd love to convert to front disc but the only true classic car shop I know of won't touch anything that's not OEM.
 
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