Problem with '65 Monaco transmission (in Germany) after rebuild - guy looking for help

MoPar~Man

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Asking this on behalf of a guy in Germany with a '65 Monaco with 383 and a rebuilt 727. He seems to have to over-rev the engine to get any forward / reverse motion - "but I need more power on the gas". Fluid level is ok, using Dexron 4.

He's looked at this:


But can't follow it.

"The gearbox overhauler has replaced and adjusted the belts. The gearbox has been freshly overhauled and adjusted from the inside". "It moves forward and back but very poorly". "I think in forward it drives only in one gear."

I've invited him to join FCBO (but I guess with a 727 problem it could be any FxBO?). That this is a cable-shift transmission is an extra complication.

Any ideas? Is this an overhaul foul-up, or a simple cable issue?
 
Make sure he's checking the fluid level with it in neutral with the engine running. That type of problem often happens with low fluid level.

While I hope they know to check it correctly, and probably do, I've run across this too many times to not mention it.
 
I agree with Big_John. It took me three attempts to get the level correct. Its difficult to see on the dipstick and then if you leave it overnight and recheck when hot and in idle, it will be low. Maybe it loading the torque converter? Had the same issues. Had to rev to move. Now, is nice and strong.
 
Does it do this on first start-up or after it has run for a while? Reason I mention this is that a quirk of TFs is that when started cold, the first start of the day, the torque converter has drained-back and needs to get refilled. The fluid flow in "P" is not what it is in "N", so "morning malaise" can happen if the car is first-started in "P". Starting in "N" gets things working much sooner, by observation. No matter the type of ATF in them.

There might be something in the cable mechanism that might need some tweaking, but that process shosuld be in the factory service manual for the 1965 C-body cars.

When this operational situation happens, when putting the shift lever into a drive gear, "R" of "D", "2:, or "1", does the engine rpm drop accordingly? Just curious.

Take care,
CBODY67
 
I did stress to him that he needs to check fluid level while hot, idling in neutral. He claims to have done that. I'll double-check.
 
Make sure the cable adjustments are correct. You can and should check ATF level cold on a new trans, it will just read higher when hot. So fill it up to the add mark when cold.

That way you can go drive it to get it hot and have an idea where you are. If people just drive until it's hot without checking it could be below the stick.
 
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