Pull my hair out?! $@$_&- carburetor.

[twostick]

Joseph,

You may be experiencing heat-soak; that is when heat saturates the carburetor and the fuel boils in the bowl. This occurs due to the use of gasohol (which boils at a lower temp) and/or due to the engine temperature getting too high. Try lifting the hood when you park your car and see if that helps; if so, it is heat-soak.

My suggestions to actually remedy the problem: use ethanol-free gasoline and get the engine temp down as much as possible. Ethanol-free may be found here: Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada

Engine temp can be lowered by many means, including lower temp thermostat (160 deg.), fan with more blades and a fan clutch, use of a fan shroud, larger radiator, lower heat range spark plugs and backflushing the cooling system.

Best of luck with your problem.

Jeff Dreibus
The Old Carb Doctor
Old Carb Doctor

Ethanol gas... that's the problem. Causes Male pattern baldness too.

CHANGE THE NEEDLE AND SEAT ALREADY!!!
Unless you are running an electric fuel pump with no regulator or a race type mechanical fuel pump with no regulator, it's the only thing it can be if fuel is squirting out the vent tube. If it was boiling fuel which it isn't, it would just bubble over and the floats would have to be too high to get enough fuel in the bowl for it to boil over anyway.

Kevin

 

[marty koirtyohann]

well unless u know yur way around a carbb really good u need to take it to a good carb shop & have them go through it if it only dose it when its hot u have the same problem I hd with my 4160 style list # 6160 I was told to lower the flosats 1/16of a "-1/8'' more in the carb todays junk gas boils easyr than the stuff the carbs was designed to run @ ,but if u r not comfortable doing that take it to s carberator shop & have tem do it .I recommend Daytona Parts Home they really know their stuff ( my cozen is great on carbs but my holley was throughung us fits till I talked to him .he is te one that told me to readjust te floar=ts lower that bwill also stop a over pressor problem ). now run it till its warmed up then turn it off n& look down the trought of the carb if its wet the floats r too hight

 

[LocuMob]

It's a simple two barrel carb, get a it for it, take the top off, take the needle and seat out, take a picture of it, install new needle and seat, install new gasket, replace top, tighten, start car and be amazed that it doesn't leak or spit or overflow. I'll bet $1 that's all it will take. Same problem on my truck, took five minutes and it is fine now.

 

[BLUPORT]

Just get a carb from @Dana

 

[Joseph James]

By way of update, I have pulled carb apart. Needle and seat are clean. Cleaned again anyway. Float level was 1/8 too high. Lowered it down to spec.

Still having problems. I haven’t checked fuel pump pressure but that is next.

Still daily driving the Fury. I go straight to work and straight home. As long as I don’t shut the engine off anywhere in between I’m ok. When I have worked on the car with it idling, it will start having problems when it gets hot.

Ordering vacuum advance this week. Looking for a fan shroud.

 

[BLUPORT]

By way of update, I have pulled carb apart. Needle and seat are clean. Cleaned again anyway. Float level was 1/8 too high. Lowered it down to spec.

Still having problems. I haven’t checked fuel pump pressure but that is next.

Still daily driving the Fury. I go straight to work and straight home. As long as I don’t shut the engine off anywhere in between I’m ok. When I have worked on the car with it idling, it will start having problems when it gets hot.

Ordering vacuum advance this week. Looking for a fan shroud.

Just spitballing, but isn't that also symptomatic of a failing coil?

 

[Triple Pickle]

Didn’t you say this was freshly rebuilt engine? You don’t want to be flooding any engine on a daily basis. And certainly not a fresh rebuild. I suggest getting to the bottom of this gas flooding problem and correct it before you toast that engine.

 

[commando1]

 

[Joseph James]

New carb and vacuum advance on. Starter failed. So, it was a week before I had time to swap the starter and a leaky wheel cylinder that was also stuck and causing the car to pull hard when braking.

Before it flooded when hot. With new carb, I can bump the starter and she fires right up.

Drove last week daily with no problems save one. With light throttle it shudders like a miss. If I disconnect the vacuum advance the problem goes away. Vacuum advance is new and I verified its operation. I am running without the advance now.

I tried fudging with timing on the shudder, using a vacuum gauge. My balancer timing mark is 5” toward passenger side when 1 is TDC, so a light is useless. From too much advance to retarded, the shudder remains until I pull advance hose off.

I checked point gap and plugs, plug wires.

Otherwise, she runs well. Getting ready to start on suspension. It’s in bad shape.

 

[furious70]

What does a vacuum gauge say with the advance off, hooked up, and when you mess with the initial timing?
Normally I'd say a shudder like that is too much vac advance too soon. Should be adjustable with Allen wrench in vac port.

 

[Joseph James]

It does best around 16 in. Ok a little higher reading but best right above where gauge says too advanced.