Radiator Yoke/ Core support shims.

[Wonderwagon]

Been sorting hardware in more detail getting ready to finally put the front end together. I've collected the proper thinck and thin shims.
1. What determines the number of thick and thin U shims on the drivers and passenger side?
2. Could any members take a measurement from the top of the metal to the top of the frame rail.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Short answer is they go where they came out, no two cars are alike (figuratively speaking).

Long answer is that every car when being built was slightly different, in the way the body went together and the way the frame went together ( and I guess the core support itself)
At the factory they would use shims in multiple locations as needed to get the alignment they were after.
The were shims at the front of the body also.

So it is always best to document where what size and how many shims there were in different locations.

Without that I'd jsut even them up left/right and start from there.


Alan

 

[Wonderwagon]

Short answer is they go where they came out, no two cars are alike (figuratively speaking).

Long answer is that every car when being built was slightly different, in the way the body went together and the way the frame went together ( and I guess the core support itself)
At the factory they would use shims in multiple locations as needed to get the alignment they were after.
The were shims at the front of the body also.

So it is always best to document where what size and how many shims there were in different locations.

Without that I'd jsut even them up left/right and start from there.


Alan

Trouble is I didn't disassemble the car %$&^#@ shop did and their gone. Hence the request for a measurement

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Trouble is I didn't disassemble the car %$&^#@ shop did and their gone. Hence the request for a measurement

There is no measurement anybody can give you, your car will give you the measurement when you go to put it together, there is no one measurement.

The factory had a measurement as to where the front of the frame was in relation to the body and they probably had a reference to where the top of the core support needed to be to get the fenders to align properly.

Like I said just guess and put them in. When you go to put the fenders on you may need to change them. Sometime you need to do something different than it was originally.

I could tell you what my car has but I have had three different 69s and all three were different.


Alan

 

[CBODY67]

Do you recall what the panel gaps were between the rear of the door and what they interfaced with on the car? 2dr or 4dr? If the panel gaps are currently decent and all body lines match-up reasonably well, then you can move forward with the fenders, getting them placed to continue any body lines forward. One side then the other side.

With body fenders "roughed-in" then test-install the core support and make the radiator opening level and centered in the middle. With the rubbers installed, but no shims. Might need to attach it to the fender sides snugly with bolts to get the measurement you desire.

Then, with everything secured where they need to be, insert shims between the core support upper mount and the core support itself. Torque everything down and re-check.

When a body-on-frame car comes down the assy line, there is no front sheet metal on the assy, but the core support is already installed loosely. Then, from behind a curtain, a worker totes out a complete fender assy, placed it between the cowl and core support, installed about 6-7 bolts, using plastic alignment guides on the sheet metal, and then walks away. Faster than you can say "440 6-Pack"!

Once you get the alignment finished, then take each fender off and put all of the other things onto each one. Then reinstall them "as complete assemblies", making sure all alignments are "to specs".

A "bad thing" is that Chrysler was not known for even panel gaps, even on the same side, as was Ford back then. Certainly there were specs, but apparently they had a wide margin of error.

I should also suggest the floor the car is sitting on needs to be verifiable level, front to back, side to side, for any variations can end up in the panel gaps and other alignments.

Take your time, one step at a time, and please let us know how it all goes.

CBODY67

 

[MrMoparCHP]

At the factory the body was fully assembled with NO frame, the fenders were attached to the body and the core support attached to the fenders. That is how the car was painted.

At some point there was the "body drop" where the body was lowered onto the frame, it was at this point the technicians observed the gaps and inserted the shims as needed.


Alan

 

[Wonderwagon]

At the factory the body was fully assembled with NO frame, the fenders were attached to the body and the core support attached to the fenders. That is how the car was painted.

At some point there was the "body drop" where the body was lowered onto the frame, it was at this point the technicians observed the gaps and inserted the shims as needed.


Alan

 

[Wonderwagon]

Thanks, now I have some guidance. My inclination was to put the car down on its wheels and check for level using the thresholds and using blocks to check side to side. Was also going to check the stub frame to make sure it is the same measurements from a body shell reference pint to be determined. Once I think it's "there" will hang the fenders checking the body line above the trim continuing the same line as doors and quarters. Shimming the yoke as required. Snugging hardware as things are fitted up, returning to them and torqueing down. Recieved a Maco electronic torque wrench from my work mates a couple years ago for this. Thanks for the insights.