Rear windshield.

[carguy300]

Hello y'all. Just a quick note, wife and I had a great time on our cruise last week,hated to come back! Now back to my 300. Pulled the trim from around back glass and found a little more rust than I wanted to. It also looks like someone tried to fix at in the past, also appears to have had a black vinyl top before the green. I want to take out the glass, but I cant find anyone who will do this old a car. Ive never done this and dont even know where to start. I will need to do the front to because it has pretty bad cracks. Do any of you have any tips for me,?I dont want to make things worse.

 

[MoPar~Man]

I think that by '67 or '68 there were no gaskets used so it would be just some sort of glue or caulk. The window is concave in both directions so you have to fully cut through the glue all the way around before you try to move it. I think that a cutting wire is going to be your only option, probably a 2-person job. Seems you're most likely to crack the glass when you first try to push the cutting wire through. That's the most critical part. Harbor freight sells or did sell a kit with poker and wire and a T handles.

 

[carguy300]

Thats good, theres a harbor freight not far from me. Was thinking about suction cups and a come along hooked to my rafters for slight pulling while cutting through sealant.

 

[MoPar~Man]

Do not apply any pressure or force on the glass !!! Even if you think you've got most of the glue / caulk cut away and the glass seems to have a lot of free play, don't do it. Fully cut through everything that's still sticking. Glass is funny and it will break on you when you're not expecting it. Some people say don't use a poker with the wire, just try to push the wire through. I'd cut away the bottom edge first, then the sides and the top.

 

[1970FuryConv]

I would take a utility knife with a new blade and cut around the glass to weaken the glue.
For rear glass, feeding the wire through at an upper corner worked for me.
Then working my way around the glass with piano wire wrapped around 2 wooden dowels with an assistant got the glass out intact.
Harbor Freight. This tool looks good.
Windshield Removal Kit

 

[MoPar~Man]

Yes there's a youtube video of a guy using that exact tool, he was removing a cracked windshield so not so worried about cracking it more, but he did crack it at the point he was pushing the wire through with the tool.

 

[Stoffauge]

Good Morning,

last year I had to build and weld in a new holland panel and was facing the same issue. I cut the glue of the rear window with a Bosch Multi Tool with this blade (Amazon product ASIN B01901CM9G ) It took me litarally just 5 minutes to go around and my dad was waiting to take the rear window out with me once I cutted all around (from inside the car after removing all the trim pieces)....

I really do recommend to use this tool. I fixed hundreds of front and rear glasses of new cars and there the T-Handle cable stuff works fine if you know what you do but on these old glass I had the feeling it´s way more brittle so I used the power tool.

It´s up to you of course, but I got it out and in in one piece.

Good luck and would looking forward to see and hear some (hopefully positive) results

Fabian

 

[carguy300]

Thats what I love about you car guys!, plenty of info, tips and past project knowledge. Thanks!

 

[Big_John]

Hello y'all. Just a quick note, wife and I had a great time on our cruise last week,hated to come back! Now back to my 300. Pulled the trim from around back glass and found a little more rust than I wanted to. It also looks like someone tried to fix at in the past, also appears to have had a black vinyl top before the green. I want to take out the glass, but I cant find anyone who will do this old a car. Ive never done this and dont even know where to start. I will need to do the front to because it has pretty bad cracks. Do any of you have any tips for me,?I dont want to make things worse.

All the trick tools are great when you have some experience in handling glass, but for a first timer, I'd really suggest the tried and true method of cutting it out with a wire. Myself, I always just used a piece of music wire and a couple visegips. I've never used the stranded wire they sell... That must have come on the scene when they started gluing them in with urethane.

My method has been to take a long length of wire, usually around .020" (or whatever I could scrounge LOL) and after removing all the trim, I would stick one end through the butyl tape from the outside at the top of the windshield, then get in the car and feed that same end through the butyl at the bottom. Grab the end sticking out with visegrips and the other end of the wire with another pair of visegrips. Use a back and forth sawing motion and cut the butyl all the way around towards one side of the car. Get that all cut and get the wire back through the butyl again and cut the other side. In 5 minutes, the butyl is cut and the windshield is ready to come out.

Tilt the windshield out at the top first and take it out.

If you look in the FSM, there's some illustrations although they use a short piece of wire and a helper.

What hasn't been addressed is you will need new butyl tape for the installation. 3M windo-weld ribbon sealer is what you want. 3/8" diameter. .
Amazon product ASIN B000CQ4AOODon't let someone talk you into using urethane to glue it back in.
If you buy the removal tool at Harbor Fright, get a set of these too... A plastic pry tool can be a real help to get the windshield away for the body as you start to remove it. These things are super handy for other uses and almost disposable.

Nylon Pry Bar Installer Kit, 4 Piece

While not really necessary, I've used a pair of these to handle the windows... 99.99% of the time, I'm working alone, so these have been great for me. Mine aren't HF brand, so I can't say these are good... but probably are about the same.

4-2/3 in., 125 lb. Dual Suction Cup Lifter

 

[carguy300]

All the trick tools are great when you have some experience in handling glass, but for a first timer, I'd really suggest the tried and true method of cutting it out with a wire. Myself, I always just used a piece of music wire and a couple visegips. I've never used the stranded wire they sell... That must have come on the scene when they started gluing them in with urethane.

My method has been to take a long length of wire, usually around .020" (or whatever I could scrounge LOL) and after removing all the trim, I would stick one end through the butyl tape from the outside at the top of the windshield, then get in the car and feed that same end through the butyl at the bottom. Grab the end sticking out with visegrips and the other end of the wire with another pair of visegrips. Use a back and forth sawing motion and cut the butyl all the way around towards one side of the car. Get that all cut and get the wire back through the butyl again and cut the other side. In 5 minutes, the butyl is cut and the windshield is ready to come out.

Tilt the windshield out at the top first and take it out.

If you look in the FSM, there's some illustrations although they use a short piece of wire and a helper.

What hasn't been addressed is you will need new butyl tape for the installation. 3M windo-weld ribbon sealer is what you want. 3/8" diameter. .
Amazon product ASIN B000CQ4AOODon't let someone talk you into using urethane to glue it back in.
If you buy the removal tool at Harbor Fright, get a set of these too... A plastic pry tool can be a real help to get the windshield away for the body as you start to remove it. These things are super handy for other uses and almost disposable.

Nylon Pry Bar Installer Kit, 4 Piece

While not really necessary, I've used a pair of these to handle the windows... 99.99% of the time, I'm working alone, so these have been great for me. Mine aren't HF brand, so I can't say these are good... but probably are about the same.

4-2/3 in., 125 lb. Dual Suction Cup Lifter

Thanks Big John. That helps a lot. I dont have a second pair of hands either. Do I need to remove the trim on the inside around the back glass to do this? This glass is still good, dont to break it.

 

[Big_John]

Thanks Big John. That helps a lot. I dont have a second pair of hands either. Do I need to remove the trim on the inside around the back glass to do this? This glass is still good, dont to break it.

Yes, remove the inner trim.

It used to be that the flat rate body/glass shops would leave the inner trim in place and saw the window out with wire. You could always tell because there would be at least one spot where the trim was screwed up... The wire actually gets pretty hot from friction while doing this and the trim gets sawn or melted a little. I've left the trim in when I've removed windshields from junk cars, but I didn't care about the trim.

So, yea... take the trim off.

 

[fury fan]

I don't know the 300 of 68, but my 68 Fury has a gasketed rear window. But I believe I share that window with the 66 300, so maybe that's the difference.

@carguy300
What's your goal? New VT and new front glass?
If the rust isn't too bad, maybe not worth the risk to repair?

Meaning, if it only bothers you now that you removed the trim and saw the rust, that means it's been there for a long time.
If you are keeping the car dry other than washing it - is it worth the risk of breaking the glass vs letting sleeping dogs lie?

Again - all depends on your goals.

 

[carguy300]

I don't know the 300 of 68, but my 68 Fury has a gasketed rear window. But I believe I share that window with the 66 300, so maybe that's the difference.

@carguy300
What's your goal? New VT and new front glass?
If the rust isn't too bad, maybe not worth the risk to repair?

Meaning, if it only bothers you now that you removed the trim and saw the rust, that means it's been there for a long time.
If you are keeping the car dry other than washing it - is it worth the risk of breaking the glass vs letting sleeping dogs lie?

Again - all depends on your goals.

The fronts not the big issue, its around the back window. It looks like some one used bondo in a couple areas in the past. There is a few spots where its rusted through at the edges and water gets into the trunk.I do Want to put a new vinyl top on. This will probably be my last car project and I plan to keep it. I keep in my shop so its out of the weather. I didnt give much for this one and its mostly original with nice options so I want to do it right.

 

[fury fan]

Understood on your desires.

Before you dig into it, just be aware how much it can snowball, depending on how you get the rust repaired. (esp if 'doing it right')
Removing glass, removing all the clips, finding rust that now must be fixed because you're in the area.
Headliner must come down a bit - which prolly leads to a new one.
Profiles around the edge need to be maintained so there are no gaps between the new VT and the trim.
Those profiles are also important to make sure the clips fall in teh right place to hold the trim.
In some areas there are also 2-3 layers of sheetmetal spotwelded together.

Not meaning to man-splain, just trying to offer the benefit of my BTDT on things.

The one benefit of fixing a rusty roof is you can stand up while you're doing it.

 

[Big_John]

just be aware how much it can snowball

Everything snowballs.... It's like home repair....

 

[carguy300]

The good news is.... the previous owner removed the headliner, trim already been removed and the vinyl top. The job has already begun! Im 61 yrs old. If I dont get it done right before I die, my son will have to finish it.

 

[cbarge]

As others mentioned, 68 fastops used urethane and best to cut around the glass.
For the front, the easiest way to remove the glass is cut the gasket around the glass.
Once the glass is out remove the gasket and get a new gasket.

 

[fury fan]

Get the new gasket first and verified to be correct before cutting anything!
Supply-chain issues will pop up when least desired.