Starting to plan my winter project with the 880. Rear wheels have more then half an inch of vertical adjustment, so I think I will pull the 8 3/4 out and tear it apart and rebuild it. Any suggestions, tips, definite do nots, or info would be wonderful. What is everyones thoughts on going to a posi, is it worth the money? Thanks in advance!
Rebuilding rearend
- Thread starter jake
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I did my first and last rear end rebuild on a 9-1/4.
The magazines make adjusting the ring & pinion and the axle adjustments look easy.
It's a *****! It certainly was an education.
I hear putting a posi into an 8-3/4 is damn near impossible. A Sure-Grip will be a whole lot easier.
You don't need a Sure.Grip unless you're driving on snow/ice or drag racing with a gear ratio so high it's impossible to launch without sitting there spinning one tire. It's totally useless for normal street driving and it's added complexity and cost you won't be using.
I had a street poundin 440 4 speed with a 3.23 open rear. Worked just fine.
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The magazines make adjusting the ring & pinion and the axle adjustments look easy.
It's a *****! It certainly was an education.
I hear putting a posi into an 8-3/4 is damn near impossible. A Sure-Grip will be a whole lot easier.
You don't need a Sure.Grip unless you're driving on snow/ice or drag racing with a gear ratio so high it's impossible to launch without sitting there spinning one tire. It's totally useless for normal street driving and it's added complexity and cost you won't be using.
I had a street poundin 440 4 speed with a 3.23 open rear. Worked just fine.
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rebuilt mine, last year. had a broken spider gear bracket. didn't know it at the time. just wanted to replace wheel bearings. pulled axles then would not reinsert all the way, opened it up and found it. took it apart then was told to change to the bracket without the center hole drilled out. the solid ones are much stronger. done and no probe since. all depends on the model and year of the diff. mine is a sure grip. hope this helps. it has 2.76 ratio and loving the mileage
thrashingcows
Senior Member
Get good outer wheel bearing kits...Timken bearing preferably. Make sure you get outer seals installed on the axles when you have the bearings done. Many shops will not do this...make sure that they do. As for installing a sure grip...guess that depends on your budget. Many people like having one so when/if they do spin the wheels they leave tow strips. I rebuilt a cone style sure grip unit for my 3.23 gear set myself...had a local guy rebuild the case, and install the sure grip unit, for about $450.
bulldogchesty
Senior Member
I rebuilt mine a few years ago. I changed from the 2:76 to 3:23 and what a differance. I also put in a 2nd gear kickdown, another great item. Do yourself a favor and let DoctorDiff help you out, he was a great help.
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I knew I had an open unit in my Challenger convertible and assumed it was a 3.23 ratio. since I would like to occasionally leave 2 stripes on the pavement, I have a 3.23 SG that I was going to swap in at some point. Well this year I've been driving the car on the highway a lot and the car has been performing really quite well and with surprising mileage in between fill ups. One day I took a couple of minutes and jacked the back up to verify what the ratio is back there and it turns out that it's a 2.97. I was surprised and now have no plans to put a 3.23 in it at all, however I do have my eyes open for a 2.97 SG....
Jake, have you ever heard of Strange Engineering? Famous rear end guys that go back decades. Thy are located about halfway between Kenosha and Chicago. You can take your 3rd member down to them and they'll rebuild it, or change the ring & pinion, set it up, whatever and all you have to do is bolt it back in. They also sell Sure Grip 3rd members if you want to go that direction. I had them narrow a Dana 60 axle and set up a 4.88 gear for me many, many years ago... 1975 IIRC.
http://www.strangeengineering.net/index.html#about
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Mopar Action just did a story on putting sure grip in where open was on a 8 3/4 it doesn't get any easier pull it out, put on bench work away no laying under car grease in face and so on the mag should still be on stands, has good info about sure grips how and why's if you don't do it yourself education is never a bad thing. As far as those splined hubs i'm no help have managed to avoid them so far, I know they use shims instead of the endplay adjusters with quality bearings you should be in ballpark unless yours are trashed.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Yes keep posted on splined axles I would like to know more about them.
polara71
Old Man with a Hat
bulldogchesty;108270 Do yourself a favor and let DoctorDiff help you out said:
thrashingcows
Senior Member
So exactly what year is your 880? Believe 64/65 was the last year for the tapered axle hubs. If it's got a 8/3/4 you might be able to get axles from say a 66 C-body and swap them and get rid of those tapered axle hubs?
Well he we go, I took out the rear end and pulled the axles today. One bearing race showed signs of distress, Ordering new bearings, seals and gaskets from doc diff today, looking to polish and paint housing, new brakes , reinstall, and drive. I hear Green bearings are the devil, go with tapered and shim?
bulldogchesty
Senior Member
That bearing is definitely nasty. Have you talked with DoctorDiff. He was a good help for me.
Dan Scully
Well-Known Member
64 is last year for tapered axle hubs. I picked up a whole housing out of a 65 New Yorker wagon less the center section. For 75.00 bucks I thought I would give it a shot to see if it works.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I like your idea on removing those axles. Beats a slide hammer!
Doc diff did not have the bearings I needed for the tapered axles, found them on rock auto. All Timken. Slowly putting everything together, I enjoyed rebuilding the rear end and the sure grip. Great learning experience. Still waiting on the brake assemblies.
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