Recommendations on new radiator for my 1968 plymouth sport fury
- Thread starter 440sportfury
- Start date
I have been out of the office for the past 2 days. Sorry for taking so long to respond.
not sure why my inbox is full. I only have about 30 messages in there.
With that motor, you want some decent volume. You also want to pull and not push if at all possible. Try it with your current 17" fan with the new radiator. If you want to get cooler, just increase the size of the fan and the amount of blades. Anything that pulls more air. If you want to get cooler still, then try and find or make a shroud.
You said '3 row' is what you want. Cold Case is a big 2 row. It's slightly larger in width than a 3 row but holds a lot more fluid and has less restriction when air is pulled through.
Once you paint our stamped tanks, it will look pretty original.
Anyway, you can call our toll free number 844-REAL-COLD and ask for John, Ken or Eric. They will be glad to review everything with you. I have forwarded this topic to them so they are up to speed.
thanks again for your confidence in Cold Case
Chris
not sure why my inbox is full. I only have about 30 messages in there.
With that motor, you want some decent volume. You also want to pull and not push if at all possible. Try it with your current 17" fan with the new radiator. If you want to get cooler, just increase the size of the fan and the amount of blades. Anything that pulls more air. If you want to get cooler still, then try and find or make a shroud.
You said '3 row' is what you want. Cold Case is a big 2 row. It's slightly larger in width than a 3 row but holds a lot more fluid and has less restriction when air is pulled through.
Once you paint our stamped tanks, it will look pretty original.
Anyway, you can call our toll free number 844-REAL-COLD and ask for John, Ken or Eric. They will be glad to review everything with you. I have forwarded this topic to them so they are up to speed.
thanks again for your confidence in Cold Case
Chris
Last edited:
440sportfury
Active Member
Thank you very much I could not get through to you it said your box was full so I left my phone # I figured you were busy. I have a car show this weekend. The North East Classic That I wanted to go to for years. I was able to pick up a stock one at the recorer that originaly did mine that someone did not pick up and they gave me a good price due to the screw up on mine. I plan to upgrade with a cold case in the near future. I will definitely get in touch with you. I definitely would like to deal with a sponsor I would check you box because it will not accept messages it said it was full and still says it was full this morning after leaving my info and phone number and several messages that it was full and not hearing back I figured you were busy or had an emergeny which thank God was not the case I hope there is no hard feeling and when I do the upgrade I look forward to doing business with you
440sportfury
Active Member
Thank everyone fore taking the time and sharing your experience and knowledge with me. It is much appreciated. That is what makes this forum awesome. The great people who are always willing to help
oh! I thought you meant my PM inbox on the forums was full. If you called and got that message, sometimes our phone system goes on overload (it's IP based) and you can get some goofy massages. Sorry that happened but glad you got to your show! Hope it was a good one!
If you find that one creeping up on you, you know where to find me. ;)
440sportfury
Active Member
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
Cold Case makes excellent radiators. I bought the MOP753A to replace an 18x22 inch High Altitutde auto trans w AC stock Mopar radiator on my 66 Newport, running a 383, 2 barrel. This is the closest thing CC makes to what I had originally. Despite the 2 inch sacrifice in height, their radiator holds about half a gallon more fluid than the old one.
Using a 6 blade 18 inch clutch fan, the shroud for the 18x22 was worthless, as was my 20 inch 7 blade Mopar clutch fan, which forced me to go to the 18" Derale fan from Summit. Rather than construct a custom shroud, though it isn't THAT difficult, just tedious, I opted for a 16" electric pusher fan, which I flick on when I see temperatures over 195 F after the thermostat opens. Mathilda hasn't run with temperatures over 200F last summer or this one consequently. I use a Hayden 2747 clutch.
I LIKE pusher fans as supplemental cooling! Mathilda idles nicely at 500 rpm, which in traffic, alas, doesn't move much air or coolant. This is the situation a pusher fills in very nicely. While a REALLY GOOD shroud will enable a mech engine fan to pull a bit more air past the radiator when in hot stalling traffic, it doesn't add up to 3000 CFM, or even half that, which probably is a more realistic assessment of my cheap sinotrash pusher, especially when my super low idle doesn't engage the alternator. Mind you, as soon as I start moving, the alt kicks up to 14 V @ 60 A, giving the pusher plenty current, but the CRUCIAL state is when idling at stop! Such is the state I note engine temperature staying below 200F, thanks to Cold Case, Derale, and the nameless slaves who make those 16 inch electric pushers in such abundance. WITHOUT the pusher, temperature climbs to 210F in similar conditions.
Using a 6 blade 18 inch clutch fan, the shroud for the 18x22 was worthless, as was my 20 inch 7 blade Mopar clutch fan, which forced me to go to the 18" Derale fan from Summit. Rather than construct a custom shroud, though it isn't THAT difficult, just tedious, I opted for a 16" electric pusher fan, which I flick on when I see temperatures over 195 F after the thermostat opens. Mathilda hasn't run with temperatures over 200F last summer or this one consequently. I use a Hayden 2747 clutch.
I LIKE pusher fans as supplemental cooling! Mathilda idles nicely at 500 rpm, which in traffic, alas, doesn't move much air or coolant. This is the situation a pusher fills in very nicely. While a REALLY GOOD shroud will enable a mech engine fan to pull a bit more air past the radiator when in hot stalling traffic, it doesn't add up to 3000 CFM, or even half that, which probably is a more realistic assessment of my cheap sinotrash pusher, especially when my super low idle doesn't engage the alternator. Mind you, as soon as I start moving, the alt kicks up to 14 V @ 60 A, giving the pusher plenty current, but the CRUCIAL state is when idling at stop! Such is the state I note engine temperature staying below 200F, thanks to Cold Case, Derale, and the nameless slaves who make those 16 inch electric pushers in such abundance. WITHOUT the pusher, temperature climbs to 210F in similar conditions.
440sportfury
Active Member
Thank You very much I was reluctant to put the pusher fan in but that definetly seems to be the answer. Thanks again for taking the time. I am sorry I did not get back to you sooner I have been on vacation. Frank
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
No need to apologize! I'm delighted to render GOOD advice. A pusher fan is the most cost effective cooling system supplement currently available to us. One can ATTEMPT to contrive a custom shroud for a clutch fan with the Cold Case radiators, and I ALMOST did so, but again, the COST dictated the pusher, and I'm overjoyed with the results! Having grown up in steaming hot Ft. Worth, Tx, then moved to oven hot Tucson, I've driven for over 42 yrs in 100+ Fahrenheit urban environments, and know a little about what happens to 1960s era V8s in such climes.
You can get a good working pusher kit for as little as $40 off eBay. If you have more room in your budget, get something better, but be wary that a higher price tag doesn't ASSURE higher quality. Shop wisely. My kit at least is put together in Phoenix, AZ, which is hotter even than Too-stoned or Fukt-Worthless. So far, it has worked beautifully.
twostick
Senior Member
When you say the tank let go, do you mean where the tank solders to the core?
If that's all that's wrong and it was cooling OK before, all you need to solve your problem is a propane torch, solder and flux.
If you can sweat a joint on copper house plumbing, you can fix this rad. Get a brass wire wheel and clean up the area until it's nice and shiny. Heat up the joint some and brush in some flux and then continue until you see the old solder just start to soften and then dip a generous amount of flux on the new solder and add it to the puddle you have started until it sweats the joint full again. Takes longer to prep for it than to fix it.
Kevin
If that's all that's wrong and it was cooling OK before, all you need to solve your problem is a propane torch, solder and flux.
If you can sweat a joint on copper house plumbing, you can fix this rad. Get a brass wire wheel and clean up the area until it's nice and shiny. Heat up the joint some and brush in some flux and then continue until you see the old solder just start to soften and then dip a generous amount of flux on the new solder and add it to the puddle you have started until it sweats the joint full again. Takes longer to prep for it than to fix it.
Kevin
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