removing exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold

[DogBunny]

Does anyone have any words of wisdom regarding removing the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold?
I need to replace my passenger side exhaust manifold gasket. Can I do it with the exhaust pipe still connected?
Do you remove the 6 manifold-to-engine nuts, and then drop the whole manifold/exhaust pipe assembly to where it's low enough to work on the 2 manifold-to-exhaust pipe bolts? One of the problems is that the exhaust pipe is in the way of one of the bolts, so you can't get a socket on it. Do you cut down a deep socket and use a wobble extension? Or are you stuck with box wrenches? Do you remove the inner fender for access? That would be great, but first you have to remove the bumper and the outer fender. What is the trick?

 

[polara66hardtop]

an air Impact gun sure helps. it is a tough removal with hand wrenches if it has been there a long time.

 

[DogBunny]

Thanks. One of the bolts is accessible, I can get a socket on it, but the other is obstructed by the pipe. There is no way to get an impact gun on it. It might be possible to get a cut-down deep socket and a wobble extension on it. I did a Forum search, and was kind of surprised to not find anything on this. You also have to get another wrench to hold the bolt while you turn the nut. And the bolts are very nearly obstructed by the spark plug heat shields. I tried wrenches on the obstructed nut and bolt, but they are so far up there that I can't get any leverage. That's why I was wondering if people drop the manifold and pipe as a unit, enough so that they can then work on the obstructed nut and bolt.

 

[1970cat]

if you have dual exhaust then you can get away with leaving the pipe connected. if single exhaust you can't get enough spread on the y pipe to get the manifold off the studs. you don't have to pull the manifold completely off. if you can pull it away from the head enough to clean the mating area, you can take tin snips and cut the gasket bolt holes into notches so you can drop it in from above.

 

[65sporty]

If you do take the manifold completely off ck it with a straight edge to make sure its flat. the gaskets seal better and last longer. if you don't have a straight edge take it to your local machine shop they can help you and also flatten it if its needed

 

[DogBunny]

you can take tin snips and cut the gasket bolt holes into notches so you can drop it in from above.

Yes, good solution, I have dual exhausts and will give it a try.
This problem only exists on the passenger side. I'm beginning to think that the problem is the result of muffler shop handiwork. If the left right side was pipe was bent like the left side pipe is, I wouldn't have this problem. And I think that is why I can't find any other mention of it when I search the forum.
What I should probably really do is cut the first foot of exhaust pipe off, remove the exhaust manifold and replace the manifold gasket like you're supposed to, and weld a new piece of pipe in that doesn't obstruct my problem bolt.

If you do take the manifold completely off ck it with a straight edge to make sure its flat.

Will do, if I get it off. I'm also going to tighten the manifold nuts every 10,000 miles which should also make the gasket last longer. I read that in other threads, others have had problems with the passenger side bolts loosening.

 

[polara66hardtop]

Once I simply drove the car to a shop, and they zipped the troubling bolt off. I left the easy one on to drive back home and finish the job.

 

[DogBunny]

Once I simply drove the car to a shop, and they zipped the troubling bolt off. I left the easy one on to drive back home and finish the job.

Thanks, but again, it can't be zipped off. It is inaccessible. I am pretty convinced by now that a muffler shop made it that way by poorly routing the pipe, and putting a bend too close to the bolt. The problem doesn't exist on the driver side.

 

[polara66hardtop]

I would like to mention, Mopar didn't use gaskets on 383-440 exhaust manifolds as they attach to the head originally. You should have the manifold re-surfaced, , and re-Install. I would take the car to a shop and torch off the difficult bolt, and leave the easy one on to get it home, and finish the job.

 

[DogBunny]

I would like to mention, Mopar didn't use gaskets on 383-440 exhaust manifolds as they attach to the head originally.

You are right, the manual makes no mention of gaskets. I know re-surfacing, if needed, is the correct thing to do. But, I have a new set of exhaust manifold gaskets that came with the car, they say Chrysler 1963-80 V8 383-400-440 on the package, so if they take care of the leak, aren't they acceptable?

 

[sander66]

How did this work out for you? I am looking replacing exhaust manifold gaskets on a 318 small block. I am just at the beginning of this project.

 

[commando1]

an air Impact gun sure helps. it is a tough removal with hand wrenches if it has been there a long time.

Best way known to man to snap a bolt in the worst possible location...
Just my opinion......

 

[70NPORT]

Best way known to man to snap a bolt in the worst possible location...
Just my opinion......

yep, Agreed. Horrible location. I'd rather swallow broken glass than find myself in that scenario.

 

[68Bigred]

Hopefully you are not suck in the same situation I was in. I had a dual system run and the first set of pipes were run from the exhaust manidols straight to the mufflers. I kept blowing gaskets out driving me nuts with the leaks. Now I could get mine off easy as I just had the engine out. I took to back to the exhaust place and complained about constantly blowing gaskets as the system was to dam tight. Since the shop was bought out there were new people there and told me the whole system from the mufflers up had to be replaced because there was no slip joint. I bought the four pipes off ebay (that were really well made) and they ran them back and adapted them to my mufflers and tail pipes. Now when the motor rocks the exhaust is allowed to slip a bit taking the pressure off the manifolds, no more leaks!! Like I said there is aguy on ebay that makes the correct bent pipes for the whole system. Since I already had new mufflers and tail pipes routed the way I liked them he allowed me to just buy the front 4. Well worth it. They guys that installed them tols me they are really nice guage pipes, and honestly with the thicker pipes it sounds better.

BTW Im in austin too!! Let me know if you want to know where I got mine done.

 

[commando1]

On my recent dual exhaust installation, I gave the guy this picture and said, Do it like that except with Flowmaster 40's.
He did it like that except with Flowmaster 40's...

No welds. All clamp connectors.

 

[68Bigred]

The guy that I bought my front pipes on ebay has that picture and he made me the front 4.

 

[68plymouth383]

This guy?? Sounds like a great deal on quality made pipes, and fittings.........
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1950-74-Chr...967|Make:Chrysler&hash=item35d94ad328&vxp=mtr

The guy that I bought my front pipes on ebay has that picture and he made me the front 4.

 

[68Bigred]

The sellers name is sat1966 think classic car exhaust systems. I recommend him!