Replace bearings or Whole Unit? AC Compressor and Clutch assembly

[canuck62]

Has any one tried to to replace the bearings on the AC compressor and Clutch Assembly?
(Press old one out, and new bearing in, etc.)
Or is it better to purchase a refurbished unit?

I can't turn the shaft more than a half inch. the clutch assembly bearing is seized.


https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/four+seasons,57059,a/c+compressor,6628

https://www.amazon.ca/Four-Seasons-48833-Remanufactured-Assembly/dp/B000C2QOSS

 

[CBODY67]

With most older a/c compressors, it's less expensive (parts, especially) to get a reman unit which has the parts changed in it than to purchase the needed parts and get them installed. Check it BOTH ways!

If you've got bearing problems, you might also need to flush the whole system to get any metal residue out of the system BEFORE any repairs are made. Might need to install an inline filter, of which several styles are available.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[canuck62]

With most older a/c compressors, it's less expensive (parts, especially) to get a reman unit which has the parts changed in it than to purchase the needed parts and get them installed. Check it BOTH ways!

If you've got bearing problems, you might also need to flush the whole system to get any metal residue out of the system BEFORE any repairs are made. Might need to install an inline filter, of which several styles are available.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Thank you for your input.

 

[cantflip]

Thank you for your input.

Time to clarify...

The compressor isn't sold with the clutch assembly
The compressor may have seized... meaning the clutch plate is frozen...

The pulley may have seized... which doesn't automatically mean the system is full of metal shavings, but often does cook the shaft seal of a compressor.

The repair you are considering is far different depending on which issue has occurred.

 

[commando1]

Sanden conversion should be considered at this point.

 

[fury fan]

Agreed, research a more efficient modern compressor.
Be prepared that it'll be pricey for brackets, belts, hoses, etc.
If you shop around and find a good deal on conversion parts please report back. (I wouldn't mind buying a set of bigblock brackets and shelving them for my older days)

 

[canuck62]

Time to clarify...

The compressor isn't sold with the clutch assembly
The compressor may have seized... meaning the clutch plate is frozen...

The pulley may have seized... which doesn't automatically mean the system is full of metal shavings, but often does cook the shaft seal of a compressor.

The repair you are considering is far different depending on which issue has occurred.

I separated the clutch assembly from the compressor. The bearing is seized on the clutch assembly, the magnetic coil is burnt and brittle and the shaft coming out of the compressor will only turn a quarter inch. Put an order for a refurbished compressor and clutch assembly. Will have a local shop flush system and recharge.

 

[cantflip]

I separated the clutch assembly from the compressor. The bearing is seized on the clutch assembly, the magnetic coil is burnt and brittle and the shaft coming out of the compressor will only turn a quarter inch. Put an order for a refurbished compressor and clutch assembly. Will have a local shop flush system and recharge.

Use extreme caution here... it sounds as if the system has suffered a catastrophic failure and is likely full of metal. Flushing isn't 100% and often leaves metal behind... to kill the next compressor. The condenser, if parallel flow, any hose with a muffler and anything else that could trap debris is typically replaced in this instance. You might get away with saving the evaporator... that's usually about as good as it gets when the compressor eats itself.

Pay attention to want commando1 has recommended, you are at the right point to convert if there is any desire in your mind. FWIW, few reputable shops will allow a customer to provide parts and dictate repairs... so make sure they are on board with your plans.

I hope this works out in your favor...

 

[twostick]

Doesn't the discharge line from the compressor go through a muffler and then a receiver dryer before it gets to the condenser on an RV2 system?

If so, I'd replace the discharge line with the inline muffler that's attached and a new dryer and call it good. I can't see any trash getting past the dryer but flushing the rest of the system would still be a good idea.

As has been suggested, now would be a good time to convert to a Sanden compressor.

All the big truck dealers like Kenworth etc usually have them on sale in the spring brand new with a clutch for under $300 IIRC.

A Bouchillion bracket kit for a car with A/C pulleys etc is about $120. They also sell an under hood kit that includes a new condenser and all the hoses for $375. It says it uses the factory evaporator so I'm assuming they have some way to adapt to the factory firewall fittings. Maybe they have adapters for the condenser too if you don't want to replace it.

Kevin

 

[commando1]

All the big truck dealers like Kenworth etc usually have them on sale in the spring brand new with a clutch for under $300 IIRC.

Mine is a Sanden HD unit for a Mack truck. Like you said, under 300 bucks. That, and the Bouchelon bracket make it cheaper that trying to stay withe the R2 compressor.
Except for the "Original or Die" guys, keeping the R2 is

 

[canuck62]

Use extreme caution here... it sounds as if the system has suffered a catastrophic failure and is likely full of metal. Flushing isn't 100% and often leaves metal behind... to kill the next compressor. The condenser, if parallel flow, any hose with a muffler and anything else that could trap debris is typically replaced in this instance. You might get away with saving the evaporator... that's usually about as good as it gets when the compressor eats itself.

Pay attention to want commando1 has recommended, you are at the right point to convert if there is any desire in your mind. FWIW, few reputable shops will allow a customer to provide parts and dictate repairs... so make sure they are on board with your plans.

I hope this works out in your favor...

Sounds like a good idea, (to talk with the shop).
Thank you for everyone's imput.

 

[canuck62]

Mine is a Sanden HD unit for a Mack truck. Like you said, under 300 bucks. That, and the Bouchelon bracket make it cheaper that trying to stay withe the R2 compressor.
Except for the "Original or Die" guys, keeping the R2 is

Would you have a link on the Sanden unit?

 

[TxDon]

I'm subscribed.

 

[commando1]

Would you have a link on the Sanden unit?

4664 Compressor

 

[canuck62]

4664 Compressor

Thank you for the link.

 

[cantflip]

Doesn't the discharge line from the compressor go through a muffler and then a receiver dryer before it gets to the condenser on an RV2 system?

If so, I'd replace the discharge line with the inline muffler that's attached and a new dryer and call it good. I can't see any trash getting past the dryer but flushing the rest of the system would still be a good idea.

As has been suggested, now would be a good time to convert to a Sanden compressor.

All the big truck dealers like Kenworth etc usually have them on sale in the spring brand new with a clutch for under $300 IIRC.

A Bouchillion bracket kit for a car with A/C pulleys etc is about $120. They also sell an under hood kit that includes a new condenser and all the hoses for $375. It says it uses the factory evaporator so I'm assuming they have some way to adapt to the factory firewall fittings. Maybe they have adapters for the condenser too if you don't want to replace it.

Kevin

There is a chance you could get away with that... but if you ever watched the same poor tech replacing compressor number 4 or 5 for free, you'll understand my caution. One guy I knew even tried to buy the customers vehicle... just so he could stop working on it.