330dTA
Senior Member
How much you are supposed to use of the two stroke oil?
How much you are supposed to use of the two stroke oil?
OK, Thank you! That’s 3 desiliters to 18.9 liters of gas.Use one ounce for each five gallons of fuel. One oz. per four gallons is too much.
Thanks for the advice RIP and Matt. I reread all the comments on the use of 2 cycle oil on the Chrysler 300 Club site and concur that use of the 2 cycle oil has plenty of additional benefits. I already bought some 2 cycle oil based on that advice before I decided to use the 100LL aviation fuel.Steve: You should still use marine two-cycle oil - even in your 100LL gas. There are many benefits - regardless of the octane level of the gas in your tank.
I never did the premeasure thing. If the tank is less than 1/4 full at fill up it’s 2 glugs for the E body and 3 glugs for the Imps.Use one ounce for each five gallons of fuel. One oz. per four gallons is too much.
I am using an old STA-BIL bottle for measuring the 2 stroke oil.
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With a touch of luck, you can put new lifters on an old cam and get away with it. Mechanics would swap out a single noisy lifter and think nothing of it as long as the bottom looked good.When I was a teenager (in the 80's) I put a new set of Rhodes lifters into a 440 that had a "purple cam" in it (of unknown variation) to try and get a little more low-end and vacuum. I didn't know any better that you should replace the cam and lifters together as a set. My friend's father, who was a shade-tree mechanic, told me to pump them up with oil before installing them, but that was it. I put thousands of miles on to that engine afterwards with no apparent damage to the camshaft. Did I just get lucky?
Oh, and the Rhodes lifters only made a minimal difference . But again, I was a total newb that only knew what he knew by reading magazines and advertisements.
Unless it's a GM engine or a custom ground cam to match Your engine I'd NEVER choose a Comp branded shelf grind for Any MOPAR. I build & tune for a living & have spent the last 18 year's on the dyno with 12 year's before that at the largest speed shop we had here...
People get confused with the comment it's not a race car!
Folks just because it's not a race car WHY would you Not want the efficiency to be in the mid 90's instead of 80%?
That equates to better milage, more power, longer oil life, hell longer engine life.
Use technology to your advantage...
I'd look at Schneider, Hughes, or Bullet for a cam. Specially for a off the shelf grind as they specialized in #'s for the MOPAR Large heavy lifter. NOT racing GM stuff & using blanket #'s across the board...
Ok, which Hughes cam would you recommend for a 4800 lbs C-body with 2.76 rear, A727 tranny, and otherwise close to a standard tune 375 horsepower 440?Unless it's a GM engine or a custom ground cam to match Your engine I'd NEVER choose a Comp branded shelf grind for Any MOPAR. I build & tune for a living & have spent the last 18 year's on the dyno with 12 year's before that at the largest speed shop we had here...
People get confused with the comment it's not a race car!
Folks just because it's not a race car WHY would you Not want the efficiency to be in the mid 90's instead of 80%?
That equates to better milage, more power, longer oil life, hell longer engine life.
Use technology to your advantage...
I'd look at Schneider, Hughes, or Bullet for a cam. Specially for a off the shelf grind as they specialized in #'s for the MOPAR Large heavy lifter. NOT racing GM stuff & using blanket #'s across the board...
I looked at their site, looks like only roller liftersAs a follow-up note, my experience is with the johnson roller lifters. I am not sure it they make flat tappet lifters.
The Hughes instructions are informative, thanksNot knowing any further details other than what you typed, I'm not suggesting your boss did anythign wrong.
It's just a good time to post this, which has some tips:
https://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/productInstructions/camshaft_instructions_Mar_2018.pdf