Replacement Leaf Springs Needed

Using the freight forwarder I needed to send the parts to South Carolina where it's packed in the container. Can't remember shipping cost from ESPO to SC, think it was low 100USD???
From there I've paid 165eu for shipping, 64eu for export declaration, 21eu for import declaration (that was for shipping 2 leafs/shackles/bolts, but also for a new driveshaft and a full box of A&A transmission stuff)

So base price for shipping is 250eu and Handling cost is 12.50eu per box.
For specifically Leafs/shackles/bolts VAT was around 160eu and import duty around 35eu I think.


Not cheap, but still cheaper than sending the leafs directly.
Don't remember exactly what the shipping costs directly from ESPO to me were, but I think somewhere around 350-450USD and VAT/Duty is calculated on Part price + Shipping.


Because I've combined shipping with other heavy/large/odd dimension parts which drastically lowers total shipping cost it was worth it.

If you only need the springs and no other parts you can also think of ordering it via moparshop germany.
Leaf Spring C-Body 67-69 Full Size 4dr Htp., 349,78 €
(No idea what brand/quality it is)
Thanks for these numbers Marty. Alot of money to get parts from the US to your doorstep. But still less than I suspected. Hobbywise I sometimes wish we lived in the US...
Yes I saw the Moparshop springs. Wonder if 4 door springs are different than 2 door models. My 2 door has 7 leaves, that was the max I believe?
 
Thanks for these numbers Marty. Alot of money to get parts from the US to your doorstep. But still less than I suspected. Hobbywise I sometimes wish we lived in the US...
Yes I saw the Moparshop springs. Wonder if 4 door springs are different than 2 door models. My 2 door has 7 leaves, that was the max I believe?

You are welcome. Same, I'm pretty sure that when counting everything, building cars like this in Europe (especially C-bodies with uncommon parts) is double the price compared to what it would costs while living in the US.

Good question on the leafspring differences. maybe @HWYCRZR knows.
I've talked with Laura of Spring n Things and decided to go with the HD 7 leafs since I also have a 90L LPG tank in the trunk all the time.
That extra weight behind the rear axle doesn't help...
 
You are welcome. Same, I'm pretty sure that when counting everything, building cars like this in Europe (especially C-bodies with uncommon parts) is double the price compared to what it would costs while living in the US.

Good question on the leafspring differences. maybe @HWYCRZR knows.
I've talked with Laura of Spring n Things and decided to go with the HD 7 leafs since I also have a 90L LPG tank in the trunk all the time.
That extra weight behind the rear axle doesn't help...
Yes, I have the same LPG tank. 7 leaves seems the way to go.

Sorry for intruding this topic guys!
 
You are welcome. Same, I'm pretty sure that when counting everything, building cars like this in Europe (especially C-bodies with uncommon parts) is double the price compared to what it would costs while living in the US.

Good question on the leafspring differences. maybe @HWYCRZR knows.
I've talked with Laura of Spring n Things and decided to go with the HD 7 leafs since I also have a 90L LPG tank in the trunk all the time.
That extra weight behind the rear axle doesn't help...
Here’s another thread that I had started on the leaf spring difference at least from’68.
Leaf spring differences for 68 C-bodies and maybe other years. Soft to Firm.

I went with the 6 to replace my 5-1/2, but then added my 1/2 spring from my original pack because I liked the 1/2 spring idea. It was a last minute decision. I figured it would add a little bit of extra help as when I road trip, the trunk is usually full.


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IMG_9984.jpeg
 
Yes. Maybe better quality..
Based on recommendations from this forum where others have purchased both, I believe everyone was happy with either. I am happy with how the ESPO ones perform so far and they seem to have a good reputation and customer service. I know a few years ago there was very little price difference between the two.
 
In my experience, leaf springs are pretty easy to modify and get good results. I’ve messed with many leaf springs on a number of 4x4s, and on my old mopars when I used to daily drive them. You can cold beat some arch back into them with good results. You need to disassemble them and beat each leaf individually. Just don’t go overboard. Take a free arch measurement before you start so you can add how ever much arch you think will fix it, and make both sides the same. Another thing I’ve done to firm up springs that are really soft or only had the minimum amount of leaves is to find a pair of donor spring that you can rob the main leaf from. Cut the eyes off of the donor main right where the curl starts, you want the leaf as long as possible without any of the eye left. Once there, you add this leaf to your pack immediately below the main. This gives your main leaf good support from eye to eye and will resist the S bend where the main is unsupported by the lower pack.

Obviously if your springs are rusty, damaged /bent from impact, or are obviously junk, this is not what you want to do. BUT, if your springs are overall in good shape but have lost their oomph from 60 years of use, this is any easy and cheap way to get your car off of the ground without compromising safety. Springs modified by you, or a spring shop will last as long as you own your car.
Travis..
 
After you get new springs ditch those air shocks, or even sooner! The rear shock crossmember on these cars was not meant for the stress air shocks can put on it. If the springs are that bad you are already transferring all that load to the crossmember.
this is great to know - I don'[t have air shocks, and after reading this, won't be opting for them, either.
 
this is great to know - I don'[t have air shocks, and after reading this, won't be opting for them, either.
I bought a '69 340 Dart cheap back in the 70's that the crossmember had the shock mounting holes torn out from air shocks.
 
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