Replacement power steering gear

[Trace 300 Hurst]

I suspect (but don't know for sure) that these "rebuilds" (including AC compressors) aren't really a full overhaul. The guts don't get much attention. They might inspect if it's really sloppy and repair if a bearing or something is trashed, but I think it's mostly a clean up, a paint job, and new seals. Why do people buy reman boxes for old cars? Because they puke fluid. New seals solves that problem (usually).

 

[C-440-300]

I suspect (but don't know for sure) that these "rebuilds" (including AC compressors) aren't really a full overhaul. The guts don't get much attention. They might inspect if it's really sloppy and repair if a bearing or something is trashed, but I think it's mostly a clean up, a paint job, and new seals. Why do people buy reman boxes for old cars? Because they puke fluid. New seals solves that problem (usually).

U r right, Trace300Hurst. Mine still works, but, spills fluid. Are the seals that easy to replace? I am not all thumbs, but, no have special tools...

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

U r right, Trace300Hurst. Mine still works, but, spills fluid. Are the seals that easy to replace? I am not all thumbs, but, no have special tools...

Well....not sure what to say. I used to do seals and such in a former life (teenage mechan-hack at a Chrysler dealer), but I went the FirmFeel route because I didn't want to mess with it. The lower seal is relatively straightforward, but getting the pitman arm off requires a pretty serious puller. It can be rented. But the seal where steering column is can be a challenge. And then there's the valve assembly on top (where the hoses go) that can also leak. To do that sort of work, you're removing the box anyway, so.....

Read this Mopars on Steeroids and have a look at the Service Manual to see if you want to tackle it. Also, lots of discussions in the archives of this Brakes, Suspension forum.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

And the pitman arm nut gets a lot of torque (120 ft-lbs), so channel-locks won't do it.

 

[HWYCRZR]

I put new seals and bearings in mine with minimal special tools using the service manual. Most challenging part was getting the threaded collar (crown nut) off the steering gear. Next time I will make or buy a special tool. One of the other challenges was setting the pre load of the worm gear. I needed a small pull scale and string to measure the rotation force.
Full disclosure, I was an equipment mechanic, so have a pretty good set of tools. I read through the process a couple of times before I tackled it. The crown nut was a ***** to break loose though without a special tool.
Slow and steady and thinking through the process is a must.
Oh and there are a lot of little balls to keep track of. Pictures Pictures Pictures of each step of the tear down. They will come I handy.

 

[C-440-300]

WOW. " Mopars on Steeroids " That's enough for me. I'm going stay clear of cheap rebuilds, too. And, I don't want to do this over any time soon. I would like the daily driver reliability. My leak/gusher IS the input shaft area. I wondered why there was a huge gap in pricing. Those archives are gold. BTW, I did buy a US made socket for the pitman arm nut. It scared me how easy it was to remove. The last guy didn't come close to 120 ft-lbs. Would a cotter pin/castellated nut have made more $en$e? Medium thread locker? ( What made you mention that? Nice timing.)

 

[C-440-300]

Taking pics along the way is the best advice for all DIYs! Especially for the "older" ones that can't keep track where we last left our glasses... I can't imagine what I would do losing a bearing... It's enough I find too many loose screws. ( I could go on.)
Thank you, Trace 300 Hurst and Highway Cruiser. From "Lala" CA, best wishes!

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

That's enough for me.

"A man's got to know his limitations."

There's supposed to be a big-*** lock washer along with that big-*** pitman arm nut. That, and 120 lbs should keep it on there pretty much to the end of time.

 

[65sporty]

We have been thinking about a steering box for the 65, I thought about getting another box and sending that one to Firm Feel or Steer and Gear for a custom build. That way if something does go wrong the car still has the original box.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Thank you, Trace 300 Hurst and Highway Cruiser. From "Lala" CA, best wishes!

Good luck on solving this problem you have. I hope we helped.

Tonight I was watching Mecum, and I see my (distant) friend Tim Wellborn spending bazillions on serious Mopar stuff. My point is that the collector car hobby is expensive. So if you have a collector car with a steering box that pukes fluid, spend 70% more than the shitbox Cardone unit would cost you, go with the professionals and NEVER think about it again. An E-body guy would laugh hysterically about a silly, trivial $550 hit to his restoration/maintenance budget. And probably an A-bod guy these days!

Just sayin'.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

We have been thinking about a steering box for the 65, I thought about getting another box and sending that one to Firm Feel or Steer and Gear for a custom build. That way if something does go wrong the car still has the original box.

That is certainly a good plan. After all, I don't think a "numbers matching" box is all that important.

The worse thing about FFeel is that it costs a bundle to ship that heavy-*** thing back to them to get your core charge. It's not their fault, they get shipping dispensation to send it to you, but you pay retail UPS to send it back. If you send them a junkyard box and they build it, you've little incentive to send them your current in-car box once you do the switch. You'll recoup a few bucks, but it ain't worth the hassle.

In my case I did send back my OEM box, but as I said above, it was hardly worth the hassle of boxing that messy, leaky thing up, hauling to UPS, and being stunned at the shipping charge. It would have been cheaper for me to walk it 850 yards to the ocean and perform a corrosion test. But they're busy and in need of boxes, so I sacrificed and supported the Mopar resto world.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Full disclosure, I was an equipment mechanic, so have a pretty good set of tools.

That level of skill and experience certainly puts you in a whole 'nother category to tackle a job like this.

I've done a few 727, 4 speed, and 8 3/4 total rebuilds (a long time ago), but I don't think I'd take a steering box dead-apart and expect it to ever again work correctly. And not leak!

 

[HWYCRZR]

The key words “I was a mechanic”. Which gives me a good background. I haven’t practiced as a mechanic full time since ‘89 so I have forgotten a lot. But I love to learn so I tend to dive into things. In this case re learn.

 

[Trace 300 Hurst]

Yeah, I was a mechanic while in engineering school in the late 70s, always tinkered with my own cars and motorcycles, built motors, was crewchief for a drag team, repairing a generator or pressure washer, etc, etc. It's a rare week when I'm not wrenching on something (for fun).

But I'll pass on that steering box rebuild. It was enough work getting the sloppy, leaky one out and the FFeel unit in!

 

[65sporty]

The key words “I was a mechanic”. Which gives me a good background. I haven’t practiced as a mechanic full time since ‘89 so I have forgotten a lot. But I love to learn so I tend to dive into things. In this case re learn.

In am a Mechanic, that's what I do every day. I would be hesitant to dive into a box at work, my own when I have time.... now that's different, I love to learn new things. I have never needed to open one at work though, lack of parts available, reman options, it isn't worth spending the time at work when I can be working on something else. Good job opening yours up and getting it back together and into service.

 

[65sporty]

That is certainly a good plan. After all, I don't think a "numbers matching" box is all that important.

The worse thing about FFeel is that it costs a bundle to ship that heavy-*** thing back to them to get your core charge. It's not their fault, they get shipping dispensation to send it to you, but you pay retail UPS to send it back. If you send them a junkyard box and they build it, you've little incentive to send them your current in-car box once you do the switch. You'll recoup a few bucks, but it ain't worth the hassle.

In my case I did send back my OEM box, but as I said above, it was hardly worth the hassle of boxing that messy, leaky thing up, hauling to UPS, and being stunned at the shipping charge. It would have been cheaper for me to walk it 850 yards to the ocean and perform a corrosion test. But they're busy and in need of boxes, so I sacrificed and supported the Mopar resto world.

If I send them a box to build they shouldn't charge me a core, it's the same if I send a brake booster to a rebuilder and they send it back rebuilt. No core.

 

[furious70]

The AutoZone cardone in my fury was no better than the one I took out 12 years ago. I put a FF in my charger, will never do anything less again. All my cars have headers or turbos, removing the box is a chore I care not to repeat.