Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Mighty fine. Mighty fine!
Resurrection of my 1970 Chrysler 300 Convertible
- Thread starter Samplingman
- Start date
Mighty fine. Mighty fine!
And if you are curious what's in one of those replica batteries..
Checked the one in my Barracuda that the PO installed (I'm too cheap) and yep, that's what's in there all right...
I think those are gel batteries for something like a Harley, but I could be wrong.
Checked the one in my Barracuda that the PO installed (I'm too cheap) and yep, that's what's in there all right...
I think those are gel batteries for something like a Harley, but I could be wrong.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Seriously? How does that even work?
I was at Amelia a few years ago, and a guy with a rare late-60s Ferrari--who had just got it back from Ferrari Classiche (yeah, over there) after 2.5 years of work had a fake Ferrari-made battery in it, one of those long narrow things. He told me the cost and it was a figure so stunning I immediately forgot what it was. But I do know it was several thousand of not-fake dollars.
He had the car flown both ways, because putting it on a ship is "not good" as he put it. What does THAT cost? Imagine if it was a 4600 lb Cbod!
He had the car flown both ways, because putting it on a ship is "not good" as he put it. What does THAT cost? Imagine if it was a 4600 lb Cbod!
Two 12-volt gel (or lithium?) batteries in parallel for the necessary amps. Works great!
73Coupe
Senior Member
3x the number of terminals !
Modern screw terminals. A bulletproof setup. It's those old-style lead posts up top you have to worry about (although they might not be lead on these repro batteries).
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Not all are like this, mine is a genuine Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Battery, pop off a cap and you can tell.
Alan
1970300vert
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Challenger
I am trying to contact you but your pm box is full. Please empty so I can pm you. Thank you
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
@challenger has one of the nicest '70 verts for sale, but it looks like his thread is locked and he hasn't been seen since June 19th. I would check Face Book, he might have it listed there. Perhaps someone else knows how to contact him?
1970300vert
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I looked on FB and didnt see anything. If anyone knows him please let me know. I will buy this 300 and make sure it is around for a long time and well taken care of!!
Any help would be apprecited gentlemen. I even tried FB groups in his town pm'ing people if they know him and or the car... to try and make contact with him and no one had any info.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Start a new thread with his handle in the title and in the text, maybe he will see it. If I hear anything I'll let you know. I guess Fury Pursuit didn't have anything for you?
1970300vert
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I tried to send Fury Pursuit a pm and his pm box is full also. I will start a new thread also. I really hope someone can help.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Where are you located? Have you sen this one, you could make an offer:
1970 Chrysler 300 Series Original. Low mile big block survivor | eBay
1970300vert
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I’m in IN
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Happy almost New Year! I should probably post an update before the year ends the so I can say I've looked at the car at least once during the year, LOL.
After the epic drive into the garage, I decided to get the gas tank plumbed properly and get rid of the explosive red can strapped to the core support. First up, a new set of fuel lines from Inline Tube. Pretty straight forward, it's a two piece set, pre-bent to meander and hug the frame rails from the gas tank to the rear of the stub frame. The rear line is over 84" long!
The piece for the front that goes through the stub frame, was not so easy. First, there are different lengths for different stubs.
I thought the shorter length was for the shorter convertible stub, but after some research and attempted per-fittment, that piece is for the longer, torsion quiet stub, since it exits out the side of the frame. I remember having a choice at Inline Tube's website, fortunately I chose correctly. Let's pause for a second and reflect on a new PSA: The line through the front stub is infinitely easier to install with the stub out of the car! I remember removing the old crusty line 5 years ago, then quickly forgot about it until this year. It took several days, a string (thanks @live4theking for the suggestion), convincing my wife to help and sheer luck before I could get it snaked through.
Second, the exit point at the rear of the stub can go two different ways on the convertible. In lieu of finding any photographic evidence for the '70 vert I chose the exit point on the side. It gave a tighter, more secure route for the rubber line extension connection to the rear.
The final piece of the gas tank puzzle, is the un-optainium through-the-trunk vent line and the associated twin grommets needed to finish the work. First off, no one makes pre-bent vent lines for C Bodies. After much searching, I found Jeggs had one listed for 1968-1973 C bodies. I quickly ordered it, then quickly realized it was the "B" body line cataloged under "C" body.
Top is the correct line sourced from my parts car, bottom is the incorrect Jeggs part:
No matter how I looked at it, there was no way to re-bend and shorten this line to make it work. Just another of those Chrysler ideas to make a different part that could have easily crossed body lines and saved the company some money. After an argument on the phone, and a donation of the shipping charge back to Jeggs, I was able to recoup $30 of the $50 I spent for the bogus part.
Since I did not have the correct tools to make the tight bend I needed, I cleaned up the parts car part and moved forward, but not so fast.
There is nothing in any parts book or online that lists "gas tank vent tube grommet". You just won't find one or two for that matter. What you will discover is that the part number is the same as the "small hole" through the firewall clutch or "Air Grabber" cable grommet. If it wasn't for the "Air Grabber" and manual transmission conversion demand, I doubt this part would ever have been reproduced. FYI, the speedometer cable is the same part number, but is has a larger hole and the vent tube will just float around in the grommet.
After the epic drive into the garage, I decided to get the gas tank plumbed properly and get rid of the explosive red can strapped to the core support. First up, a new set of fuel lines from Inline Tube. Pretty straight forward, it's a two piece set, pre-bent to meander and hug the frame rails from the gas tank to the rear of the stub frame. The rear line is over 84" long!
The piece for the front that goes through the stub frame, was not so easy. First, there are different lengths for different stubs.
I thought the shorter length was for the shorter convertible stub, but after some research and attempted per-fittment, that piece is for the longer, torsion quiet stub, since it exits out the side of the frame. I remember having a choice at Inline Tube's website, fortunately I chose correctly. Let's pause for a second and reflect on a new PSA: The line through the front stub is infinitely easier to install with the stub out of the car! I remember removing the old crusty line 5 years ago, then quickly forgot about it until this year. It took several days, a string (thanks @live4theking for the suggestion), convincing my wife to help and sheer luck before I could get it snaked through.
Second, the exit point at the rear of the stub can go two different ways on the convertible. In lieu of finding any photographic evidence for the '70 vert I chose the exit point on the side. It gave a tighter, more secure route for the rubber line extension connection to the rear.
The final piece of the gas tank puzzle, is the un-optainium through-the-trunk vent line and the associated twin grommets needed to finish the work. First off, no one makes pre-bent vent lines for C Bodies. After much searching, I found Jeggs had one listed for 1968-1973 C bodies. I quickly ordered it, then quickly realized it was the "B" body line cataloged under "C" body.
Top is the correct line sourced from my parts car, bottom is the incorrect Jeggs part:
No matter how I looked at it, there was no way to re-bend and shorten this line to make it work. Just another of those Chrysler ideas to make a different part that could have easily crossed body lines and saved the company some money. After an argument on the phone, and a donation of the shipping charge back to Jeggs, I was able to recoup $30 of the $50 I spent for the bogus part.
Since I did not have the correct tools to make the tight bend I needed, I cleaned up the parts car part and moved forward, but not so fast.
There is nothing in any parts book or online that lists "gas tank vent tube grommet". You just won't find one or two for that matter. What you will discover is that the part number is the same as the "small hole" through the firewall clutch or "Air Grabber" cable grommet. If it wasn't for the "Air Grabber" and manual transmission conversion demand, I doubt this part would ever have been reproduced. FYI, the speedometer cable is the same part number, but is has a larger hole and the vent tube will just float around in the grommet.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Next up, Dutch panel replacement. As noted in a previous post, the original shoddy '90's repair had failed, and no wonder, it was a flat piece of rusty metal, pop-riveted over the original rusty Dutch panel, painted and called a day. I noticed something was up early on when there was way too much flex in the panel itself. I also needed to replace the corner gussets, so a full replacement was in order.
I thought that I would never find a decent replacement, so I thought I'd retro fit this piece from the '73 coupe. The dimensions for the trunk opening were the same, I would just have to figure out the convertible end.
Fortunately, as luck would have it, @Wollfen was splitting up a '69 vert, and for a very reasonable price I had a decent replacement.
I thought that I would never find a decent replacement, so I thought I'd retro fit this piece from the '73 coupe. The dimensions for the trunk opening were the same, I would just have to figure out the convertible end.
Fortunately, as luck would have it, @Wollfen was splitting up a '69 vert, and for a very reasonable price I had a decent replacement.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Unfortunately, it was shipped UPS, who proceeded to loose the package in their massive warehouse for a month. After unsuccessful trying to track the package down, it suddenly appeared at my doorstep the day after I filed an insurance claim, go figure.
Now the real work had to begin, trimming and fitting, then cleaning up the new part. No matter how much a seller swears up and down about a fuselage car being "rust free" I guarantee the the Dutch panel is toast in some places. This one looked great, but there were gremlins deep inside. I chemically stripped, blasted and then treated the insides with rust converter.
So many spot welds!
Nice solid corners.
Now the real work had to begin, trimming and fitting, then cleaning up the new part. No matter how much a seller swears up and down about a fuselage car being "rust free" I guarantee the the Dutch panel is toast in some places. This one looked great, but there were gremlins deep inside. I chemically stripped, blasted and then treated the insides with rust converter.
So many spot welds!
Nice solid corners.
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Before fitment, I wanted to make sure that my trunk gusset VIN would be preserved. Don't want to be accused of a re-body.
Pre-fitting involved a lot of trimming, fitting, trimming and fitting again.
Looks like a half of a whole car!
Nothing like ugly welds to get the job done!
Pre-fitting involved a lot of trimming, fitting, trimming and fitting again.
Looks like a half of a whole car!
Nothing like ugly welds to get the job done!
Samplingman
Old Man with a Hat
Another facet of the Dutch panel replacement is the convertible only water channel which is almost always rusted out and perforated beyond repair. This part was included, so I proceeded to disassemble the channel at the spot welds so they could be fitted in without removing a major convertible support.
Rotted original:
Dissecting to preserve the support:
Preparing the donor:
Rotted original:
Dissecting to preserve the support:
Preparing the donor:
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