Landyacht
Active Member
I'm not too tech savvy when it comes to uploading photos but I will see what I can do.
Rod knock or Weak Motor Mount ?
- Thread starter Landyacht
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- Nov 14, 2010
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I'm never putting any new forged pieces or cast aluminum anything in or on my engines except Pistons. Give me oem or give me death!
Landyacht
Active Member
68plymouth383
Senior Member
It ate those up. I'am glad you caught it before it destroyed your engine.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Nah. They're reusable. I can still see an oil grove.
A Brillo pad should do it.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Looks like debris and or too tight. What does the next door neighbor look like, if it is okay it is most likely the rod sized too small. I would emory plastigage just to check and put it back together till winter, like you said. My Challenger has a bad rear face on the thrust bearing been that way for over 12,000 mi. I'm going to fix it someday lol.
68plymouth383
Senior Member
Now you gotta wonder whether the crank will destroy them again, or another set. Looks like a lack of lubrication to me that caused this.
Landyacht
Active Member
I can't say its totally the fault of the crank manufactor. I built the car up to be a hotrod and did my fair share of thrashing on it. In the end its all a matter of trading off reliability for performance.
Landyacht
Active Member
It looks to me like a metal shaving or a piece of debri did the damage. All the other bearings don't look too bad.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Lack of lube would have discolored everything before it seized and spun in the rod big end. Its a clearance or out of round issue. Only reason I say debris is the groove, the groove is in the crank so it will not eat into the new bearing. Wear should be on top and bottom not out by the rod bolts, which leads me to believe too much crush from big end of connecting rod.
Landyacht
Active Member
My next door neighbor weighs about 300 lbs and she likes to walk around in spandex. The other rod bearing that shares the same journal as the bearing in the photo looks to be in pretty good shape
Landyacht
Active Member
Put the new bearings in and slapped it all back together. Still noticed the sound after driving it but noticed something new. I have some oil around the crank case ventilator and a little smoke. No smoke out the exhaust that I can tell. Looking at pulling the plugs although I did put new ones in about a month ago and the old plugs that I removed looked to be in excellent shape. I'm thinking broken compression ring. Not sure if it would make that sound. time to pull out the compression tester.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
I spit my milk out through my nose.
68plymouth383
Senior Member
I vote for pull, and rebuild.
Landyacht
Active Member
That's kinda what I was thinking. Hopefully the cylinders not scored and I can get away with replacing one piston and not have to bore the block. Might as well have the heads CNC ported since I have to pull em off . was also thinking of switching my Performer RPM intake out for a high rise single plane. and maybe a slightly bigger cam and a straight cut planetary gear set with 2.77: 1 First gear and 1.58: 1 second for a quicker launch. We have the technology. We can rebuild it. We'll make it stronger faster.
Landyacht
Active Member
Would this cause an engine miss at 2500 rpms?
I think I found my problem. Damn Comp cams! Anyone have any sugestions for a good street cam. I'm thinking of going with the .509 purple cam. I still have to pull the intake to confirm that its a bad lobe.[video]https://youtu.be/4EavJ1j509g[/video]
I think I found my problem. Damn Comp cams! Anyone have any sugestions for a good street cam. I'm thinking of going with the .509 purple cam. I still have to pull the intake to confirm that its a bad lobe.[video]https://youtu.be/4EavJ1j509g[/video]
Landyacht
Active Member
I hope that's the case. I do love the wide power band that that cam offers. and I'm afraid the Purple cam might kill some low end power and sacrifice driveability. Comp cams are notorious for wiping out lobes especially on the Extreme Energy series. I have been running a zinc addative to try to prevent that problem from happening.
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Yatzee
Active Member
It strikes me as peculiar that you should mention strange knocking sounds from the engine bay that are hard to locate because I had just that a short while back. On the cam issue, I run a fairly stout Lunati that I put in three years ago and it's been about 8,000 miles past and have had no issues. Each to his own. The knock that I had was coming from my TTI header rapping against my torsion bar on the right hand side at certain times and r.p.m.'s. Seems the tranny mount had collapsed slightly and allowed the tail of the tranny to drupe slightly towards one side.. The tail shaft of the tranny was slightly off center and too low allowing contact between the header tube and the torsion bar which happed mostly on acceleration. Really hard to be inside the car and outside at the same time. The headers run so close to the torsion bars on that side and I could not even fit a piece of cardboard between them for a clearance measurement. After addressing the rear tranny mount issue all was well and I had 1/4 inch clearance at the torsion bar. I'm so pleased that I found the problem without too much ado and was prepared (in a panic) to start disassembling the engine fearing the worst. It's strange how of all the problems that can occur, finding that renegade knock, squeak, rattle and buzz can be.
Landyacht
Active Member
I'm running the same headers ( TTIs) Funny you should mention that. I did swap out my old motor mounts for polyurethane mounts but I still have the old trans mount which is a bit worn and does have some play in it. Ill definitely look into that . Thanks!
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