Roof vinyl panel

[Gavin Jeffrey]

Hi guys,
I need some help / information on how to remove the roof gutter mouldings and "C" pillar vinyl panels from my 68 Chrysler New Yorker, 4 door hardtop.
I am preparing the car for paint, i am also re doing the sail panel vinyl with correct material out of SMS.
I need to remove all old vinyl and padding, but need to also remove all moldings around rear screen, gutter and around "C" pillar.
Any information on how to do these two jobs would be very helpful.
Also i need the right side rear screen molding (vertical piece) if anyone has a spare in good condition.
Thanks everyone again.....
Gavin

 

[bluefury361]

Hi guys,
I need some help / information on how to remove the roof gutter mouldings and "C" pillar vinyl panels from my 68 Chrysler New Yorker, 4 door hardtop.
I am preparing the car for paint, i am also re doing the sail panel vinyl with correct material out of SMS.
I need to remove all old vinyl and padding, but need to also remove all moldings around rear screen, gutter and around "C" pillar.
Any information on how to do these two jobs would be very helpful.
Also i need the right side rear screen molding (vertical piece) if anyone has a spare in good condition.
Thanks everyone again.....
Gavin

View attachment 350751

View attachment 350752

Can't help you much.... But I like your wheel covers.

 

[cbarge]

Owning a 68 Chrysler and been there..
Get the proper tool to remove the trim around the window or "screen".
I did use a screwdriver in the past and regretted it when the unicorn trim got bent or marked from the screwdriver.

Remove the bottom trin along the front screen cowl.There are screws on each end in the door jam area,the rest are just clips that pop out.
Using the tool,start on the side trim of the screen and the long top piece is last.
Go by feel and when it catches a clip pop it and avoid prying on the trim.
The first clip is usually the trickiest but as you go along it gets easier.
The top piece along the screen can be tight and again do not pry it will bend easily.
Rear screen start at the top and work your way down.
Avoid cutting the rear screen gasket since that itself is not in reproduction.

Drip rails;
Start at the front A pillar. Using a wide gasket scraper or wood spatchula from the kitchen. Look closely at the drip rail molding it will have a lip facing up. Pry it towards your body starting at the bottom near fender and work your way up . Pop it gradually every inch or so until it falls off. Again do not pry! and not too far apart!
From the front door to the C pillar repeat on the drip rail.
Tag the trim left and right as you go along and now is a good time to wet sand ,buff and polish the stainless trim!

The applique is glued to the pillar so it may need some persuasion to get off.

The trim around the applique it goes like this..
Open rear door and the end of the weatherstrip/quarterpanel has a phillips screw-remove it and pull the weatherstrip out to expose the screw that hold the stainless.
The stainless along the top of the glass I recommend removing altogether but you can partially let it hang but total removal is best.
The scripts and C pillar trim is bolted from the inside which means hadnling the headliner on the inside of C pillars--have fun with that.
(BTW the scripts on my car I cut the tabs off and used 2 sided 3M trim tape)
Once removed now is a good time to smooth out the pillar with some filler to make the joint much less obvious and no longer wavy. Seal it with Epoxy primer before prep and paint.
Hope this helps.
PM if any questions
Cheers

 

[JC68vert300]

I really like the color of your New Yorker, hope you keep it the same color combo, it's a very sharp looking Chrysler.

 

[Gavin Jeffrey]

Owning a 68 Chrysler and been there..
Get the proper tool to remove the trim around the window or "screen".
I did use a screwdriver in the past and regretted it when the unicorn trim got bent or marked from the screwdriver.
View attachment 350786
Remove the bottom trin along the front screen cowl.There are screws on each end in the door jam area,the rest are just clips that pop out.
Using the tool,start on the side trim of the screen and the long top piece is last.
Go by feel and when it catches a clip pop it and avoid prying on the trim.
The first clip is usually the trickiest but as you go along it gets easier.
The top piece along the screen can be tight and again do not pry it will bend easily.
Rear screen start at the top and work your way down.
Avoid cutting the rear screen gasket since that itself is not in reproduction.

Drip rails;
Start at the front A pillar. Using a wide gasket scraper or wood spatchula from the kitchen. Look closely at the drip rail molding it will have a lip facing up. Pry it towards your body starting at the bottom near fender and work your way up . Pop it gradually every inch or so until it falls off. Again do not pry! and not too far apart!
From the front door to the C pillar repeat on the drip rail.
Tag the trim left and right as you go along and now is a good time to wet sand ,buff and polish the stainless trim!

The applique is glued to the pillar so it may need some persuasion to get off.

The trim around the applique it goes like this..
Open rear door and the end of the weatherstrip/quarterpanel has a phillips screw-remove it and pull the weatherstrip out to expose the screw that hold the stainless.
The stainless along the top of the glass I recommend removing altogether but you can partially let it hang but total removal is best.
The scripts and C pillar trim is bolted from the inside which means hadnling the headliner on the inside of C pillars--have fun with that.
(BTW the scripts on my car I cut the tabs off and used 2 sided 3M trim tape)
Once removed now is a good time to smooth out the pillar with some filler to make the joint much less obvious and no longer wavy. Seal it with Epoxy primer before prep and paint.
Hope this helps.
PM if any questions
Cheers

Thankyou for your detailed information,
Does the vinyl go in under rear screen rubber ?
I have a new rear screen rubber that is a Steele product, says it fits 67 68 Chrysler 4 door hardtop.
I got it from an ebay listing that said 67 - 68 Imperial 4 door hardtop, but looking up the original parts book the genuine part numbers are the same for both Chrysler New Yorker and Imperial 4 door hard top back screen rubber.
Thanks
Gavin.

 

[cbarge]

Thankyou for your detailed information,
Does the vinyl go in under rear screen rubber ?
I have a new rear screen rubber that is a Steele product, says it fits 67 68 Chrysler 4 door hardtop.
I got it from an ebay listing that said 67 - 68 Imperial 4 door hardtop, but looking up the original parts book the genuine part numbers are the same for both Chrysler New Yorker and Imperial 4 door hard top back screen rubber.
Thanks
Gavin.

The 67/68 Imperial and 67/68 New yorker did share same rear window so that gasket should be ok.

The vinyl typically is installed prior to the gasket and screen.

 

[Jet440]

Those rear windcreen moulds are a pain to remove . Trick also is use a heat gun to soften the sealer , otherwise you can bend the mouldings as that sealer is so hard after all these years .

 

[Gavin Jeffrey]

Are the rear screen molds held by clips, the side ones are but the lower one looks like its held in with just the rubber ?

 

[Jet440]

No the bottom held in by the clips also im sure , but either way its a ***** to get out so heat gun it up to soften the sealer