Hello all! I'm wondering about rust encapsulators. I have rust on the insides of my back wheel wells behind the rear wheels. Ive seen different products POR 15, Eastman, etc. Id like to hear about your experiences and results. Thank you!
Rust encapsulators
- Thread starter Nadine66
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Pete Kaczmarski
Senior Member
If the treated area is exposed to UV Rays, you must treat with a top coat of paint.
live4theking
Old Man with a Hat
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Many years ago I used POR-15 a truck. I bought the start kit and followed the directions. Top coated it with some Rustoleum spray bomb. a couple of years later when it cam time to paint it that stuff was rock solid. You would've had to use some very coarse sand paper to get through it.
I've used POR-15 with good results. The area has to be clean and rough, so any areas with paint will need to be roughed up with course paper. As said, it will need to be top-coated because it doesn't like UV light. I found, and this was a suggestion from a POR-15 rep, that if you top coat it, spray primer on it while the POR-15 is still tacky.
Oh.. and wear gloves. You won't get this stuff off your hands. It has to wear off and that takes a week. AMHIK.
Oh.. and wear gloves. You won't get this stuff off your hands. It has to wear off and that takes a week. AMHIK.
RGORHAM29
Active Member
Both POR15 and Eastman products can be top coated w rustoleum.
RGORHAM29
Active Member
Hi. First, my bad. I said Eastman originally…meant to say Eastwood.
Yes, when I did my stub frame I used the Eastwood products. Hard as nails. I used the Eastwood Platinum (silver color). It paints on with a brush. Then Eastwood “Chassis Black”. That was sprayed on. They also make an encapsulator in a spray can with a hose and 360 nozzle for inside the frame. You can get that in chartreuse or black. Very important to take care of inside the frame. Like anything else, prep work is key. I was able to blow out the inside of the frame and used a wire brush used for chimney cleaning to knock loose any flaking rust or dirt. I used a wire brush wheel on a drill on the outside of frame.
When it all dries it is hard to scratch it. I did similar for torsion bars and upper control arms. I top coated with rustoleum satin black. Don’t worry about gloss or shine….it will get dull with dust and dirt.
Yes, when I did my stub frame I used the Eastwood products. Hard as nails. I used the Eastwood Platinum (silver color). It paints on with a brush. Then Eastwood “Chassis Black”. That was sprayed on. They also make an encapsulator in a spray can with a hose and 360 nozzle for inside the frame. You can get that in chartreuse or black. Very important to take care of inside the frame. Like anything else, prep work is key. I was able to blow out the inside of the frame and used a wire brush used for chimney cleaning to knock loose any flaking rust or dirt. I used a wire brush wheel on a drill on the outside of frame.
When it all dries it is hard to scratch it. I did similar for torsion bars and upper control arms. I top coated with rustoleum satin black. Don’t worry about gloss or shine….it will get dull with dust and dirt.
RGORHAM29
Active Member
Good luck in which ever you chose. Both are proven products. In many local body shop or auto stores, POR 15 is readily available. I ordered mine online and received later that week ready for the weekend.
73Coupe
Senior Member
I have done lots of POR-15 with Rust-o-leum satin black top coat. I usually apply two coats of the POR and then two top coats. All applied when the previous coat is "tacky" and no longer transfers any residue to a finger. The POR is very tuff to sand if you wait to top coat after it has cured. POR also sells a tie-coat primer if you top coat after it's cured.
POR-15 works great but it's all in the prep, like any paint. I don't use it because of its rust encapsulating abilities (I prefer to remove the rust), but because of its durability.
Water-based Super Clean or Purple Power are good degreasers, followed by Ospho metal prep.
PursuitSpecial
New Member
I use tannic acid based rust converter. It reacts with the iron oxide to form ferric tannate which preserves the metal under it. The stuff is relatively inexpensive and lasts a while. Only problem is that it stains paint black, so keep it off of visible areas. I put it on all my cars rust spots that can't be painted or accessed, notably on the undercarriage and in places like the cowl drain and frame rails. In the spots where the paint has peeled off and rust forms, like around the bottom of the rear window and the door bottoms I go over it lightly with a fine brush in several coats to avoid staining the paint around it.
Do you have any pics of what it looks like? Specifically around the bottom of your rear window. I have rust in the same spot. I'm curious to see how it would look with the light patina I have on my car. (I have mostly paint still) I'm thinking of the POR 15 or the Eastman for the insides of my body panels and frame.
Reliabilityman
New Member
I have used Zero Rust in black satin on all my restorations. It has no UV inhibitor but works well on wheel wells, frames, engine compartments etc. It sprays well if diluted 10% with lacquer thinner. Lays down like paint
Thank you for the pics! My phone just down loaded them.
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