O_Knut
Member
So I am getting the car back tonight! Transmission fixed along with the breaks.
Besides nuetral starting after sitting, what can I do to prevent this car from getting its 3rd transmission job in the future?
Same old transmission, brand new internals
- Thread starter O_Knut
- Start date
So I am getting the car back tonight! Transmission fixed along with the breaks.
Besides nuetral starting after sitting, what can I do to prevent this car from getting its 3rd transmission job in the future?
73Coupe
Senior Member
What were the events leading to three transmission rebuilds?
Is the cooler or lines blocked? Clogged filter? Low fluid level? Foreign matter in the case? Hard driving? Overheating?
Is the cooler or lines blocked? Clogged filter? Low fluid level? Foreign matter in the case? Hard driving? Overheating?
O_Knut
Member
So this is its second rebuild my apologies, and that’s only what I’ve been informed from previous owners. It had 40,000 miles on the rebuild when I bought it and after driving it a few thousand miles I had to rebuild it again. Seems the clutch had been stripped pretty bad. I’m just saying I don’t want to have it rebuilt again for a 3rd time in its life
The biggest thing that you can do is have the trans rebuilt by someone that knows what they are doing.
O_Knut
Member
The guy who did this one did the th400 in my dads nova, and that things pushing much harder numbers. His transmissions been fine for well over a decade.
71Polara383
Kid with ballcap
I am assuming you have the kickdown linkage adjusted properly?
If not, that'll kill a 727.
If not, that'll kill a 727.
twostick
Senior Member
You are assuming it actually got rebuilt the last time.
Some less than honest shop might have pulled a fast one on the previous owner. Patched it up and told him it's rebuilt and handed him a big bill.
If you want it to live forever, change the fluid and filter at the end of the year and adjust the kickdown band.
Going forward, fluid, filter and band adjustments every 30k miles.
Full disclosure, I never do this myself, but it's not a bad idea, especially the band adjustments.
Kevin
Some less than honest shop might have pulled a fast one on the previous owner. Patched it up and told him it's rebuilt and handed him a big bill.
If you want it to live forever, change the fluid and filter at the end of the year and adjust the kickdown band.
Going forward, fluid, filter and band adjustments every 30k miles.
Full disclosure, I never do this myself, but it's not a bad idea, especially the band adjustments.
Kevin
There are "transmission rebuilds", transmissions "rebuilds", and transmission rebuilds. Leap of faith unless the transmission shop is a known quantity. Within that mix, there are multitudes of levels of quality and price in the frictions, steels, and bands, too. SO, finding a known-good shop is very important. Not only to ensure you get what you paid for, but also a transmission that will last well, too.
Way back in about 1968, I noticed that the factory service manual called for a "band adjustment" (due to mileage) on our '66 Newport 383 2bbl. So when I was making the appointment with the local Chrysler dealer (where we got the car and had known the service manager for quite some time), I inquired about the band adjustment. His reply was that "I've run them tight. I've run them loose. Unless it is slipping (which it was not), don't mess with it." So all we've ever done is normal fluid/filter changes. No transmission issues for well past 125K miles from new on several car we still own.
Now, normal use. No trailer towing. Limited WOT activity. No drag racing. Just normal driving around in non-hilly areas. On the '66, I did add two more turns of preload to the transmission linkage (which the service manager said he did to his '67 Newport), replaced that with a narrow plastic wire tie in the carb slot on the '80 Newport, and as a part of the 3000 mile check on the '72 Newport, played with the linkage adjustment to get the part-throttle kickdown to act better, and did similar with the '70 Monaco 383 4bbl to get the part-throttle upshifts a bit higher (aiming for 2-3 min throttle upshift at 1000rpm after the upshift). NO issues with transmission durability at all. But no band adjustments needed.
Perhaps I am an "out-lyer"? Perhaps I've been lucky? Or perhaps I did not change things radically enough to cause any destruction? Perhaps starting with OEM-production, unmolested vehicles was the key?
To me, starting at bone-stock factory specs is important. That gives me a good baseline from which to consider tweaks and such to make things work just a bit better and nicer. IF they had not worked, they would have been put back to factory specs.
Just some thoughts. Just MY experiences.
CBODY67
Way back in about 1968, I noticed that the factory service manual called for a "band adjustment" (due to mileage) on our '66 Newport 383 2bbl. So when I was making the appointment with the local Chrysler dealer (where we got the car and had known the service manager for quite some time), I inquired about the band adjustment. His reply was that "I've run them tight. I've run them loose. Unless it is slipping (which it was not), don't mess with it." So all we've ever done is normal fluid/filter changes. No transmission issues for well past 125K miles from new on several car we still own.
Now, normal use. No trailer towing. Limited WOT activity. No drag racing. Just normal driving around in non-hilly areas. On the '66, I did add two more turns of preload to the transmission linkage (which the service manager said he did to his '67 Newport), replaced that with a narrow plastic wire tie in the carb slot on the '80 Newport, and as a part of the 3000 mile check on the '72 Newport, played with the linkage adjustment to get the part-throttle kickdown to act better, and did similar with the '70 Monaco 383 4bbl to get the part-throttle upshifts a bit higher (aiming for 2-3 min throttle upshift at 1000rpm after the upshift). NO issues with transmission durability at all. But no band adjustments needed.
Perhaps I am an "out-lyer"? Perhaps I've been lucky? Or perhaps I did not change things radically enough to cause any destruction? Perhaps starting with OEM-production, unmolested vehicles was the key?
To me, starting at bone-stock factory specs is important. That gives me a good baseline from which to consider tweaks and such to make things work just a bit better and nicer. IF they had not worked, they would have been put back to factory specs.
Just some thoughts. Just MY experiences.
CBODY67
O_Knut
Member
So the shop I go to is well known for its work on classic cars, and although their transmission guy retired a few years back, they called him up and asked if he wanted to do the work and he did. So their transmission guy (who’s done other people’s cars that I know) did it. I don’t tow with my Chrysler, I try not to beat on it too too much (sometimes my child comes out), and I live in a very hilly area (tri state area MA CT NY on Appalachian trail) so suggestions?
727 transmissions are tough. So something is wrong. Make sure the kickdown linkage is working correctly and fluid is flowing threw the lines and cooler without restriction. I still have the original 727 in my Cummins with 250k+ miles on the beast! Of course it's getting close to time for a rebuild.
65furyrewind
New Member
Checking that linkage adjustment is a good suggestion. It commonly gets called a kick down linkage, but it more importantly controls transmission pressure and adjusts it appropriately for the throttle position. GM and Ford typically use vacuum control for this function.
Fury1969WI
Member
I'm definitely no expert and i (somewhat jokingly) subscribe to the belief that me being a Mopar guy means I'm; "Living Life One Transmission At A Time!" That was mostly before i matured and bothered to understand something about how they work.
As other have said, improper functioning kick-down linkages (Valve Body pressure regulator kind of thing) are commonly blamed (any of the cable kits available will make that issue practically idiot proof - Bouchillion used to have a good one).
But burned clutches eh ... could be several reasons i wouldn't hazard to guess with info available. But one thing comes to mind - think about adding new cooler lines and new radiator or auxiliary transmission fluid cooler unit installed. Otherwise you risk contaminating that new transmission on first start (maybe what happened last time?? Clutches got gunk from last burned transmission via crap left in lines and/or radiator cooler?)). IDK, just a thought.
Good luck!
As other have said, improper functioning kick-down linkages (Valve Body pressure regulator kind of thing) are commonly blamed (any of the cable kits available will make that issue practically idiot proof - Bouchillion used to have a good one).
But burned clutches eh ... could be several reasons i wouldn't hazard to guess with info available. But one thing comes to mind - think about adding new cooler lines and new radiator or auxiliary transmission fluid cooler unit installed. Otherwise you risk contaminating that new transmission on first start (maybe what happened last time?? Clutches got gunk from last burned transmission via crap left in lines and/or radiator cooler?)). IDK, just a thought.
Good luck!
O_Knut
Member
Shop that did it added a transmission cooler thankfully, to hopefully avoid overheating issues. I now know to start car, leave it in neutral for a minute to build pressure (if it’s been sitting) and then begin driving.
73Coupe
Senior Member
This guy knows what he's doing:
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