Seeking opinions on current/future supply/prices 69 300 convertibles or Fuselages

hey Jeff, thanks so much for your kind words, and great words of advice. I will for sure use them as a guideline.

Dale
 
First, since Fred Flintstone has better body repair and paint skills than I do....

My #1 priority would be to find a car with the best body and paint possible. Even if the interior is roached from the sun it is by far easier and a lot cheaper to find and replace interior parts. Mechanical stuff is the easy part of a restoration (except a 1978 wiper cam...LOL). I had two estimates for body and paint restoration done on my 78 NYB and I could buy FOUR rust free, low mileage, turn key Formal's instead. IMHO only...mechanical repair is the easy part.
 
First, since Fred Flintstone has better body repair and paint skills than I do....

My #1 priority would be to find a car with the best body and paint possible. Even if the interior is roached from the sun it is by far easier and a lot cheaper to find and replace interior parts. Mechanical stuff is the easy part of a restoration (except a 1978 wiper cam...LOL). I had two estimates for body and paint restoration done on my 78 NYB and I could buy FOUR rust free, low mileage, turn key Formal's instead. IMHO only...mechanical repair is the easy part.

Bob, it does always depend on where you want to end?

If I would want a condition #1 or #2 car: I would search for it and buy it.
Everything else will cost you a lot more money.

Take your NYB: AFAIK it is a great driver. I wouldn't touch the rust and drive it "as is" as long as there is no salt on the road. I would NEVER consider restoring it. If you want a perfect one: see above.

To me each car (and its condition !) gives it a certain job.
You don't want to use a #2 car daily because after 6 months it will be in condition #3.

A car doesn't need to be totally restored to be driven and enjoyed

Carsten
 
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