She’s alive, '68 383

It does look great. HWYCRZR, tell me about that power steering return hose - in my experience there is quite a large loop of hose on both circuits to deal with engine movement.

Why is yours so short, and is that red colour the correct colour for the spring clamps?
 
The length is required on the pressure side as you are supposed to have a very gradual loop in the line. I guess I don’t know about the return hose,as I copied the length that has been on there since the 80’s. As far as the clamps every thing I have read shows red clamps for power steering return. From what I can determine the wire Corbin clamps were used through 1967 and possibly into 1968. Either in ‘68 or by ‘69 for sure the flat compression clamps, also red. This was the reference I was going off of for mine.
power steering return hose
 
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Read my responses to that post, as they will hopefully clear up any concerns. The return hose input bung on your pump seems very low, like your pump is using a much longer belt that usual and has to be tipped quite far over to tension the belt.

Check the other post out and see what you think. It's my opinion you've got a messy disaster waiting to happen there.

Update - heck, I'm just going to copy and paste it over here...
******************************************************
In the pic below is a fairly original untouched big block engine bay from a 1966 Newport. It has its' Corbin clamps on it too (not red) as far as I can make out. It matches what's on my two 66s for power steering return hoses. They are actually molded, and have their own part number, which now supercedes to straight power steering hose. I managed to find two correct NOS molded hoses a number of years ago.

Anyhow, you can see the way it's routed, and that the bend near the top is quite tight. This reduces strain on the bung that's on the power steering pump reservoir, and allows the remaining 18" or so of hose to curve gently to the return bung on the steering box.

I've never seen such a short hose as I've seen on yours, and it sets off all my warning bells. One good tromp on the accelerator that engine lifts at all and sooner or later you will have a separation!

For what it's worth, all the PS return hose clamps I've dealt with on 66s have not been red, but regular cad coated colour. Perhaps that's a later 67 and up thing...

100_3184-jpg.jpg
 
Nos parts package. power steering return hose

return-hose-jpg.jpg



View attachment 246438

From the other thread:
There's no way that's a NOS 65-68 C body power steering return hose package. I have a set in my garage. See my post above. It may be the supercede one, but in my opinion, that hose is too short by a long shot.
 
Regarding the use of correct Corbin spring wire clamps, my response to another post in the other thread was that they need to be right up against the flare in the metal tube the rubber hose is going over, and that to use the clamps, one needs the right tool. Additionally, your lovely restoration should not have flat band spring clamps on it anywhere as far as I know. This is what I wrote in the other thread:

For 65 -68, band style spring clamps are NOT the correct ones for power steering, OR fuel lines or main brake booster vacuum line. They used the spring wire Corbin clamps. The little tiny ones were used all the way from the tank to the front last metal line to the carb after the fuel filter - where ever there was a flared metal to rubber connection. I went through about a dozen 66 Monacos to get correct parts to restore my first Monaco - the only worm clamps I ever saw were service replacements. Flatband spring clamps just were not on the car ANYWHERE.

And those spring wire Corbins are a PITA if you don't have the right tool like this:

tyr801-jpg.jpg


One of the best things I ever bought. They lock in place to hold the clamp open, and release to set the clamp right by the flare as required. Worth every penny.

Using regular pliers or other tools to do the job can put burrs on the clamp which can damage a rubber hose.
 
It looks like I have a totally different outlet on my ‘68 power steering pump (no A/C) than your ‘66. There’s no way a formed hose like that would work with the angles of the outlet bung. As far as my belt, it is probably a little stretched as I have not put my new ones on yet. But I am at about 3/4’s of the adjustment slot. A shorter belt would rotate the pump and bung down as my pump rotates up to tighten. As far as the length of the return hose my new one is the same length as the old. The old hose was on it at least from about 40,000 to 106,000 miles. ‘83- current The only change since original that I am aware of is The Corbin wire clamps were replaced with screw clamps over its life. Yes I have the Corbin’s tight up to the nipple. I would like to see more ‘68, 383 examples if they are out there.
I would like to be as accurate as possible.
C427E035-3532-449C-803A-C7AB0F506BC9.jpeg
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C7183054-D79B-430E-B9F2-19E0FCBB38FE.jpeg
 
Very interesting. You have the much preferred 68 and up pump mounting bracket. The pivot is up and the slot is low, so it still actually pulls up to tighten, and so the bung would move up, but no matter. That being said, the bung is certainly angled differently than mine, (Federal Mogul to TRW vending difference maybe?), and your much clearer pictures ease my concern greatly.

Really great work man!
 
You had me thinking there for a minute. I also found my other NOS reservoir for the larger diameter pump, and it is also clocked like mine. Must have been a ‘68 thing.
64F69A35-41C0-4CD6-A967-3553081211AC.jpeg
 
I installed my new dipstick tube and re- torqued the exhaust manifold. Ready to go again. A couple of pumps and started right up again. Borrowed a 1979 Sun Test box. Unplugged my vacuum advance and put the meter on and dialed in the rpm down to 600. I had to adjust the fuel mixture a little to keep it running, but settled in. Tweaked the timing a couple of degrees. The dwell is just below the lower end of where it belongs. If I am thinking correctly I need to tighten the gap just a little.
 
Went outside today. Took it around the block a couple of times and down the highway (longer way around the block). Got up to about 55, before I had to turn. No unusual noises, but with straight pipes ending about 2 ft past the manifolds I probably can’t hear it anyway. It idles ok, but I think my carb needs more than a carb kit. It is idling a little high as the torque converter wants to go at idle.
First outside shot. Yes still waiting for my grill.
58412152-AE06-47F9-AF00-5873AE07C8D9.jpeg
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0D878D12-F66D-4BE3-BDBA-4F48163F5D6F.jpeg
 
Wife says no more driving until I get the exhaust on. Appointment at exhaust shop next Thursday.
Also had to order new vacuum advance canister. Drops about 5” of vacuum every 29 seconds.
I am still struggling to find a good way to check rpm. Either I am going to find a regular tach to hook up or maybe a photo tach.
Either my idle is still a little high or my original torque converter wants to drag. It idles along at about 10 mph and lugs the engine at a stop in gear.
 
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