Shock replacement question

pay him another $50 so you can watch the procedure... or buy some pizza, that usually gets you real far at the mechanic shop.

i send pizza to every place i take my car. insurance. and for some reason all the shops like me :)

so - ya - you shouldnt need to unbutton the front end for a shock change. i dunno if anyone asked about where you are lifitng from, but lift from the center frame k member thing under the motor - big square steel frame piece. dont lift from the arm, or wheel, or any of that. you need the wheel and suspension to drop/sag at full travel/extended. the shock should go right in.

undoing the torsion bars - while easy in of itself - now you are messin with the whole geometry of the front end. torsion bars are the 'spring' of the front end, also ride height, wheel position changes, etc. and - they are under about 6 megatons of pressure. when you adjust the torsion bar, you are TWISTING the bar. literally. a big *** 1" thick iron bar. twisting it. literally. there is a LOT of energy in that bar. bad things happen when t-bars break. bad things man.

i would NOT mess with unhooking the LCA, torsion bar, etc, etc.

step back and review.

try not to die -

- saylor
Free Pizza, or a dozen doughnuts work every time. Mechanics are easy to please.
 
On the underside of the upper control arm you should find a rubber bumper. That should be easy to remove. Afterwards, you should be able to lower the entire assembly a little more (and with it, of course, the lower control arm). Perhaps this step will finally give you enough space to slide in the shock absorber without having to loosen the lower control arm.
 
Well, that ordeal is finally over and done with. New shocks are in! Took it down to my mechanic and let him deal with it. I'm glad that I went that route after getting y'alls advice. Thanks again everyone for your input. I look forward to getting some other questions answered here later on.
 
I'm another with the knuckle scars to prove it. Securing it with wires/zip ties seems to be the best way. The other thing I did to help was remove the bushings and reinstall them once the shocks were in. I seem to recall some shocks, (none I've found for this though), would come fully compressed and a 1/2 twist would unlock them, wouldn't that be nice here.
 
Too many people complain that the KYBs are so fat that a 10 minute installation turns into 2 hrs.

So the issue is with the installation, not with the performance once installed?
 
I have KYB Gas-A-Just shocks on my 78 NYB. Not that hard to install if you compress the shock and wire tie the body during installation.

The difference in ride with the KYB's was night and day for the better.
 
Free Pizza, or a dozen doughnuts work every time. Mechanics are easy to please.

Nope.

Labor.Rates.jpg
 
I have KYB Gas-A-Just shocks on my 78 NYB. Not that hard to install if you compress the shock and wire tie the body during installation.

The difference in ride with the KYB's was night and day for the better.
It's the Fuselage owners that have to fight with the installation the most, isn't it?
 
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