Shocks

[Aquaman]

QUESTION: Do Monroe shocks need to be tied down in the same way as the KYB to install?

 

[HWYCRZR]

Yes. All shocks will expand with no load. Need the front ones fully compressed to install v

 

[Big_John]

Yes. All shocks will expand with no load. Need the front ones fully compressed to install v

Actually, it's the gas charged shocks that expand. A conventional shock absorber, like the OEM on our cars, isn't gas charged and won't expand.

I don't think that gas charged shocks were readily available back when our cars were built.

 

[Big_John]

QUESTION: Do Monroe shocks need to be tied down in the same way as the KYB to install?

If it's a gas charged shock, yes. Conventional shock that's not gas charged, no.

 

[Aquaman]

Yes. All shocks will expand with no load. Need the front ones fully compressed to in

If it's a gas charged shock, yes. Conventional shock that's not gas charged, no.

Thanks for the info guys. I have been slowly replacing most of the front end this winter on my '68 Newport. First time ever doing this type of work and have been reading a number of threads on here that have been helpful. Including a reply to another of my questions in the spring.

I appreciate it.

 

[Gerald Morris]

Thanks for the info guys. I have been slowly replacing most of the front end this winter on my '68 Newport. First time ever doing this type of work and have been reading a number of threads on here that have been helpful. Including a reply to another of my questions in the spring.

I appreciate it.

Take a Hint from a bloke who did the same thing some years ago. It's best to do it all at once. If you can't, do it evenly to each side, such as: replace BOTH lower control arm bushings, both lower ball joints, both upper ball joints,, all the sway bar rubber and such. Keep it symmetrical! Be SURE to align it slightly "pigeon toed" to optimize treadwear. Be VERY careful with that front ride height!

Replacing front shocks makes a GOOD start o making your front suspension safe. Easy, economical, nearly foolproof.

I've been VERY blessed with this second Newport we acquired. The original suspension still works fairly well, though I've got a date with my lower control arm bushings coming later this year, AFTER INSTALLING A STEERING GEAR THAT DOESN'T LEAK!

Remember: there's little point in installing new rubber if hydraulic oils will be bathing and dissolving it. Take care of THAT **** after you do those shocks.

Ride Straight and True bro!

 

[More_Than_A_Car]

Thanks to everyone who suggested the KYB shocks!
My front set did not come with the strap. The picture shows a 36 inch zip-tie used to reduce the length by 4 inches to create the needed clearance.

Two suggestions (or one old fools opinion);
A) For the bottom of the front shock (top of rear), create some space for installation by using a threaded rod, two thick fender washers, and two nuts inside the mounting members. Using the nuts to push out on the washers may give a little free play before installing the bottom (or top rear) of the shock.
B) Shocks, as with most suspension components, should have the final tightening/torqueing of the fasteners with the vehicle at "normal" ride height.

Again thanks for the suggestion on the KYB gas shocks and the installation techniques.

 

[Big_John]

I just did mine a few weeks ago. 1970 300.

I used my press rather than compressing them by hand. The press isn't really needed, but it made it really easy. For the straps, I got some long zip-ties from Harbor Fright and went through the lower eye and up around the rubber. Then I put a smaller zip-tie around the large ones to hold them in place until I got to the car.

I separated the upper ball joint. I clipped the small zip-tie right before inserting the shock, then once in place, cut the large zip-ties and let it expand into place.

Hardest part of the job was separating the passenger side ball joint. I've separated ball joints before and this was the most stubborn ball joint I've ever encountered.