Simple Spark Plug Tricks
- Thread starter 67newport
- Start date
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
One thing I learned as a mechanic with spark plugs is that if you drop a new one on the ground then don't install it since the ceramic will likely have cracked.
A cracked ceramic can cause misfiring...
A cracked ceramic can cause misfiring...
One of his BEST videos!
I read about Champion "J-Gap" plugs in the late '60s, mentioned in a Peterson Publications Ignition book. I spent a few hours with a point file making some from the J-14Ys in the ;66 Newport 383 one Sunday afternoon. Quite a deal, doing it that way! Seemed to help off-idle response, but nothing more than knowing I had "race style" plugs in the car.
Later, I came across an NGK flyer at a Toyota dealer. Same gap design. Touted to be better with the leaner mixtures of that time (1980s). Discovered from the back of the NGK catalog, there was one of the Toyota numbers that crossed over to my '80 Newport 360 2bbl, so my auto supply guy gone me some.
The Autolites already in the car were burning perfectly and the car was running well, too. Butr as soon as ai got the Toyota NGKs in it, the minute I started it, it sounded better with more throttle response. A little while later, NGK had introduced their V-Power plug, which was the same gap design as the OEM Toyota plug, with applicatkons for everything, so that became my "go to" spark plug. In my daily-driver Camaro 305, they;d usually last about 30Kmiles before the "V" would erode smooth, with less "V".
By observation, in the engines with more of a wedge-shaped combustion chamber, not much difference, or nearly as much difference as in the Chry 360. So I determined that in an open chamber combustion chamber, with more "lazy air", that's where the main benefits might be. Or at least MORE of them.
No measurable increase in mpg that I could document, but sharper off-idle throttle response was noticeable, which also made the cars nicer to drive.
I did use the diag cutters rather than the point file, in later years, with good results. Key word is "cafefully cut", with less filing being required later. Got the job done much quidker than 50 years ago, too.
When the NGK "fine wire" (.040" wire diameter) plugs came out, with the emphasis on completely unshrouded electrodes, reaulting in greater and faster flamer kernel growth, that seems to be the current ultimate situation. Plus the "tends to last forever" orientaiton of Iridium. Other than iridium, you can find the fine wire plugs for lawn mower, now, too!
A shadetree method of uncovering the center electrode is to take a pair of pliers, grasp the ground strap, and gently rotate it so that 1/2 of the center electrode is exposed. Not sure which rotation direction might be better, but I suspect that the mere additional exposure is beneficial. Quicker than filing!
Enjoy!
CBODY67
I read about Champion "J-Gap" plugs in the late '60s, mentioned in a Peterson Publications Ignition book. I spent a few hours with a point file making some from the J-14Ys in the ;66 Newport 383 one Sunday afternoon. Quite a deal, doing it that way! Seemed to help off-idle response, but nothing more than knowing I had "race style" plugs in the car.
Later, I came across an NGK flyer at a Toyota dealer. Same gap design. Touted to be better with the leaner mixtures of that time (1980s). Discovered from the back of the NGK catalog, there was one of the Toyota numbers that crossed over to my '80 Newport 360 2bbl, so my auto supply guy gone me some.
The Autolites already in the car were burning perfectly and the car was running well, too. Butr as soon as ai got the Toyota NGKs in it, the minute I started it, it sounded better with more throttle response. A little while later, NGK had introduced their V-Power plug, which was the same gap design as the OEM Toyota plug, with applicatkons for everything, so that became my "go to" spark plug. In my daily-driver Camaro 305, they;d usually last about 30Kmiles before the "V" would erode smooth, with less "V".
By observation, in the engines with more of a wedge-shaped combustion chamber, not much difference, or nearly as much difference as in the Chry 360. So I determined that in an open chamber combustion chamber, with more "lazy air", that's where the main benefits might be. Or at least MORE of them.
No measurable increase in mpg that I could document, but sharper off-idle throttle response was noticeable, which also made the cars nicer to drive.
I did use the diag cutters rather than the point file, in later years, with good results. Key word is "cafefully cut", with less filing being required later. Got the job done much quidker than 50 years ago, too.
When the NGK "fine wire" (.040" wire diameter) plugs came out, with the emphasis on completely unshrouded electrodes, reaulting in greater and faster flamer kernel growth, that seems to be the current ultimate situation. Plus the "tends to last forever" orientaiton of Iridium. Other than iridium, you can find the fine wire plugs for lawn mower, now, too!
A shadetree method of uncovering the center electrode is to take a pair of pliers, grasp the ground strap, and gently rotate it so that 1/2 of the center electrode is exposed. Not sure which rotation direction might be better, but I suspect that the mere additional exposure is beneficial. Quicker than filing!
Enjoy!
CBODY67
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