Single stage vs base clear: Persian white

BluegrassDan

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Met with a guy today who may be painting by 67 Newport back in the original Persian white. We discussed single stage vs base clear.

He believes for this car single stage might be preferable. It can be more easily spot fixed if ever needed, among other things. He says he uses very high quality paints. Photos if his work look very good and he comes recommended by a few car friends. Been painting since 1981 (the year I was born.)

Any opinions on this?
 
By observation, BC/CC paint usually turns out too shiney/slicker than normal single-stage acrylic enamel does. Both have hard shines, just that the SS will look more correct to somebody that knows what they are looking at. SS acrylic enamel w/hardener makes for a very durable finish and hard shine. Other than ultimate paint costs, DOES he know how to shoot SS acrylic enamel well? Can the correct color be sourced locally in acrylic enamel, too?

In prior times, DuPont Centauri acrylic enamel was a premium product into the earlier 1970s, but another current brand of paint is now similar to it.

Please keep us posted on your progress,
CBODY67
 
IMHO, I would go with the Base Coat/Clear Coat. I like shiny cars. @azblackhemi can tell you more about the differences.

My 300, painted in BC/CC. Note the reflection.

NAPA 2018.jpg
 
A painter likes to use what he is familiar with. And his best work will come from that. If you make him use something he isn’t super familiar with then the final result might suffer.

If he has customer recommendations then go and check out what those paint jobs look like and see if you lie the quality.

I like single stage paint and they can shine just as good as anything else.
 
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In my opinion, base/clear is a waste of money and time on a solid color, especially white.

Not using base/clear for a metallic would be crazy, unless you are really going for an original look to the car and want to get as close as possible to how it left the factory.

Jeff
 
From my own experience base clear coat is far more durable in the real world. I think seeing random cars done in both BB and single stage would be time well spent.
 
From my own experience base clear coat is far more durable in the real world. I think seeing random cars done in both BB and single stage would be time well spent.
How do you know what products were used on the paint jobs you were looking at? A wide range of quality and price range is out there for all paint types.
 
My wagon was BC/CC. It is a metallic so there is a deeper shine and perceived depth to the paint. On the other hand I have painted single stage with clear coat. It had the same depth and was a metallic GM color on a Firebird.
 
In my opinion, base/clear is a waste of money and time on a solid color, especially white.

Not using base/clear for a metallic would be crazy, unless you are really going for an original look to the car and want to get as close as possible to how it left the factory.

Jeff
Jeff, you hit the nail right on the head! Non-metallic colors look fantastic when cut and polished without the use of clear.
 
Having been restoring old Mopars for 49 years, having been a parts jobber at one point, a paint rep, and having been trained by a paint manufacturer, and having spent many an hour in a body shop or paint booth, I have the following thoughts.

BC/CC has a very specific look that is different from any single stage paint. It is quite shiny but presents itself in a manner that shows as if the color is underneath a layer,...because it is. If this does not matter to you, then go ahead and enjoy the brilliance that it brings. It is much more resistant to the challenges brought by acidic rain and atmospheric fallout as well as bird poop, etc,. It still requires proper user care.

As an aside, the base coat is usually a water based product, and the clear coat is a catalyzed product requiring specific care and usage (spray) parameters as well as personal protection when sneaking in to the boot to check on the painter's progress!

Single stage (SS) appears as though the color is "on top" and throughout the paint coating (even though there is some separation due to the paint composition) and appears to be "thicker" than BC/CC as a result. Metallic and solid colors can produce superb finishes. Personal protection is required when using and mixing.

SS metallics require care when applying as the metallics can have a run even if the paint coating does not. They can also have a slightly different hue or have a different pattern depending on the air pressure used in the gun, the gauge of nozzle used, the atmospheric conditions when painted and the technique of the painter.

Can they be matched, yes, if careful when doing so.

If your painter has not used SS in a while, it might be wise if he changed his gun to match the SS, and sprayed a few test panels to get back to his full level of quality.

I much prefer the use of SS on an older vehicle and an experienced and patient painter can produce award winning finishes when using it.
As with any paint job, prep and properly matched paint supplies are very important.

Some individuals are of the mindset that polyurethane is the ultimate way to go. Understand that this is an incredibly durable coating, but has very specific needs in order to be used, is very expensive, is usually a solid color blend, and uses stronger chemicals to produce a proper catalyst and panel bond, and has a much more dense look.

Once cured, this stuff is beyond tough to remove and is made to be a maximum strength coating. Be careful and very sure of yourself if this product is your coating of choice. I do not recommend it except for commercial vehicles or items that will receive notable amounts of physical abuse.

So, pick what you like and make whatever you spray look like new. Good luck!
 
I was trained as a paint and body man back in the mid 80's and I agree with Jimmy G on his assessment between CC/BC and SS. However, I will add that you can add a clear coat over your single stage paint if you want to. It does enhance the reflective quality plus if the clear wears off you still have compoundable paint below and you can just clean and respray one area instead of repainting the whole vehicle. Another thing to remember in choosing which way to go, is that the clear coat is about as thick as a piece of onion skin paper (extremely thin). Your choice.
 
I have been painting for just on 30 years and personally I still do solids as a single stage. But I do clear over base (COB) if i am blending in a repair on a panel. Its just easier for me to get a better colour match.
 
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