Some guy gave me a FREE 4 Barrell intake, which carb??

[Wollfen]

I guess I'm still confused as to if it will fit or not. So far it measures the same as the intake in my car. But if performance gains are minimal I doubt I will use it. But I would still like to know...

I think we need to find out if the engine in your car is original or not, very early 383 engines were the wider RB design and then later the 383 B motors had a shorter stroke and block height. On the passenger side of the engine block just below the head you will find the year cast into the block, (eg. 8.4.66) This will clear things up quickly.

 

[Wildaugust]

Here's an old pic of my Mopar M1 Intake Manifold. This one fits the B Engine (383 & 400 cid) Big Blocks. Sorry the pic is analog, but the width at the top edge of the mounting surface is approximately 12 1/4" as shown. A manifold for an RB engine should be around 1" or more wider than this. I hope this helps.

 

[440Sled]

The intake holes on my 1968 440 are the same size. The primary's in the pic look smaller. When I purchased my new Holley carb i made sure that all of the holes were the same size. They tried to sell me one that had smaller primary's. I said hell no.

I measured my 383 and 440 (both '68s).
It was easier for me to measure distance from inside the points rather than the bolt holes so my measurements may not match what someone else has.
Using your pic, you can see where exactly I measured.
View attachment 51462
The 383 was approx 6 3/4 inch
The 440 was approx 8 inch

 

[Wildaugust]

The intake holes on my 1968 440 are the same size. The primary's in the pic look smaller. When I purchased my new Holley carb i made sure that all of the holes were the same size. They tried to sell me one that had smaller primary's. I said hell no.

The primaries do appear to be smaller in that pic. So, does that mean it's not a "square bore"?

I could swear my Carter AVS is a square bore. Maybe I'm confusing it with the Holley on my 390? It's been a while. :laughing7:

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Afb and avs are both square flang just like holley 4150&4160

 

[OneEyed]

Mine measures 12-1/4" just like Wildaugust shows. I was able to find some casting numbers on the block under the exhaust manifolds. I assume the same number is on both sides? It was hard for me to get to the pass. side so I got some #'s there and the rest on the drivers side. Here's what I have now
My block casting - 24681308
My intake casting- 2205737
Free intake cast - 1737708

From what I can see after measuring again today, this time more accurately and using the same points of measuring as shown by you guys above, Both of my intakes are the same. I also realize that I am no expert and that I should be wrong, but I just don't see where, lol.

Since some of you were talking about the intake holes, here's an overhead shot of mine (freebie intake). The front two DO measure smaller than the rear. Plus a pic of me measuring the width. (just cuz we all like pics)


Bluefury36, you posted a link to fowardlook that shows the same number intake, but that one has holes/spaces between the tunnels, where as mine is one solid piece. Not sure if that means anything..
Also, on my freebie, there is red marker pen, barely legible in the pic, but at some point someone wrote on it - 67 383 VIP. if that helps?

 

[Wollfen]

Looks like you are good to go at putting that manifold on your car, now you just need to sort what type of carb you want on it, I actually have a Holley carb with that pattern on a 440 here which i will be taking off soon, I will check the List number on it and let you know so you can use it for reference.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I would not mess with old Holley's unless you know what you are doing and how to fix them or need a original carb ( show) they warp and leak internally and will make you pull your hair out. Put a eddy carb on if you are bucks down check craigslist or just fine a old afb or avs carter just don't pay much as it will need new kit and floats and lots of cleaner.

 

[Wollfen]

I would not mess with old Holley's unless you know what you are doing and how to fix them or need a original carb ( show) they warp and leak internally and will make you pull your hair out. Put a eddy carb on if you are bucks down check craigslist or just fine a old afb or avs carter just don't pay much as it will need new kit and floats and lots of cleaner.

Yah, I originally suggested a 625cfm Edelbrock and got shot down on that.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I thought it was a good suggestion if that helps. I didn't mean to kick your holley around but I figure if he is asking for help/suggestions he will get in deep with old holley problems.

 

[bluefury361]

I would not mess with old Holley's unless you know what you are doing and how to fix themQUOTE]

I agree. Old holleys are mainly good for paper weights. Especially with the ethanol gas of today.
A properly built AFB or an 625cfm Edelbrock, as suggested, will be a good choice.

That manifold was used on the early 350's and 361's, both "B" engines. It will not fit an "RB".
If your 2bbl is working right you won't gain much by swapping, and you will suffer higher fuel consumption.

If you can read the cast date it will verify the application.

 

[bluefury361]

51519[/ATTACH]


Bluefury36, you posted a link to fowardlook that shows the same number intake, but that one has holes/spaces between the tunnels, where as mine is one solid piece. QUOTE]

I see what you mean about the open area between the runners. I don't think that will effect anything. Now i'm curious about the cast date on your manifold. In 1959 the B series manifolds went to the larger carb mount base with the change from the WCFB to the AFB carters.

I have a 4bbl intake number 2205968, used on 1962 to 1966 361 and 383's. It has the closed area between the runners like yours and has the same carb mount base. My guess is that your manifold is a 1959 to 1961 engineering upgrade of the early manifold. The "N2" below the cast number may verify this.
The choke mount pad seems a little different also.

 

[BillGrissom]

I had a factory (cast iton) 4 bbl I bought long ago for $20. Never put it on my 383 since I bought an alum Edelbrock instead. Got tired of hauling it every time I moved so sold on craigslist for $20 two years ago. Before that, I researched on ebay and people ask $100 for my PN (forgot). But, shipping the beast would have been a pain. Anyway, research yours. People wanting to restore some E-body big-blocks will pay big dollars for the correct PN. Otherwise, an aluminum intake seems better.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

666 manifold is correct for a low deck (B) on a e body for 70 and I believe 71 also. 1972 up manifold from a 400 would be best but uses the spread bore flange. Free trumps all unless you are really into the latest whiz bang polished piece. A 4 barrel will not use any more gas cruising the highway than a 2 bbl same rpm same air fuel ratio equals same amount of fuel being consumed don't believe the wives tale if a 4 bbl uses more gas it is not jetted correctly.

 

[OneEyed]

If performance gains are minimal, then probably not worth my time or money. I've been wanting to step up to a four barrel ever since I got the car and was hoping this freebie would be a great place to start since I currently don't have a lot of money. My 2 barrel leaks, and the floats aren't opening correctly, so I do need to do something.

Can anyone tell me what intake/carb combo would be correct for that period? I don't need shiny nor high tech. Just a good running car that can lay some rubber once in a while would be fine with me. I'd like to keep everything old school looking for the most part.

If you want to throw some ebay links my way with what I should look for, that would be great too.

 

[Wollfen]

I have a carter 2bbl on a 383 here that I wont be using, I will check it out for you and let you know.

 

[CBODY67]

The WCFB base is smaller than all other Carters, and is a square-bore versus a spread-bore. You'll probably need to find a small Holley to fit that, as WCFB carbs are expensive and very scarce. I had a factory cast dual-quad intake that used the same carb. I ended up selling it because it was going to be too expensive to source two carbs, the right linkages and all that.

You can tell the general era of a Chrysler part by the number. As a general rule, the seven-digit series started in the 1950s with a ONE. Sixties parts started with TWO, Seventies parts start with either a THREE or a FOUR. This is a late Fifties intake, as I stated earlier. Note that a part might be used over a period of years unchanged, so you will encounter parts that carry over from one decade to another.

A great and very informative tutorial on Chrysler part numbers here:
440 Source.com - Info on Chrysler's casting and part numbering system

The factory AFB on my '67 383 Newport was the "small pattern" vs. the "Holley pattern", which is larger. The aftermarket AFBs seem to have bolt holes for both patterns.

CBODY67