Spring Perch Change 1970 to isolated 1971. Can it be changed back?

1970FuryConv

Old Man with a Hat
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I'm wondering if the isolator can be deleted without welding on a new spring perch.
My 1971 Fury has a large centering opening for the isolator. Hard to get a pic.
PXL_20221025_214949089.jpg

Opening for isolated spring perch. Pic from 1972 8.75 rear
20190427_192547 1972 Spring Perch.jpg

I think the 1970 and earlier had a much smaller opening at the spring perch
18a9 reassembled, new gasket.jpg

Any thoughts on using a 1971 or later axle without an isolator at the spring perch?
Thanks
 
The isolators were a part of the Torsion Quiet Ride package, from 1970 onward. So you have to go pre-1970 to get rid of the isolator and such. Maybe even pre-Fuselage as I'm not sure about the '69 cars and what they had under them.

Now, there are some harder rubber spring isolators which are available for GM F-body cars (as in Gen II Camaros and Firebirds, '70-'81), which replace the similar isolators in those cars. Possibly they might work? They are available from a few sources, as I recall. I bought some for my '77 Camaro a good while back, but never installed them . . . yet.

In any event, to maintain some semblance of the factory ride height with OEM-spec springs, you need something in there to take up the space between the springs and their mounting to the axle. Perhaps ESPY or similar might have some of the harder isolator items?

What issue are you seeking to diminish or fix?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
The isolators were a part of the Torsion Quiet Ride package, from 1970 onward. So you have to go pre-1970 to get rid of the isolator and such. Maybe even pre-Fuselage as I'm not sure about the '69 cars and what they had under them.

Now, there are some harder rubber spring isolators which are available for GM F-body cars (as in Gen II Camaros and Firebirds, '70-'81), which replace the similar isolators in those cars. Possibly they might work? They are available from a few sources, as I recall. I bought some for my '77 Camaro a good while back, but never installed them . . . yet.

In any event, to maintain some semblance of the factory ride height with OEM-spec springs, you need something in there to take up the space between the springs and their mounting to the axle. Perhaps ESPY or similar might have some of the harder isolator items?

What issue are you seeking to diminish or fix?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
Hi Willis,
I have had 2 1970 Plymouth Fury cars, 27 body and 29 body. Neither had isolated spring perches. I believe Dodge and Chrysler converted to isolated spring perches and front subframes one year before Plymouth. Ben
 
What issue are you seeking to diminish or fix?

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

Why do you want to delete the isolator?
Hi Willis & James,
It is mainly economy. I have a new set of u-bolts and spare pair of used 1970 u-bolt/shock mounts. The u-bolts are not long enough for the isolated spring perches.

The 1971 car has not been on the road since 1978. I need to replace the rear leaf springs at some point. I was sorting though parts on my shelves and trying to think about attachment hardware. I don't have any performance problems to correct. Cheers! Ben
 
I would try using a round spacer that fits in the larger hole. If you clamp the spring, you can remove the bolt and add a large thick washer that fits, and it should work. If you have any spring shops in your area, they could help you with the U bolts and nuts and a larger bolt to hold the spring together. Look for a place that does truck springs. I would make some sort of spacer to replace the rubber insulator, so you keep the same ride height.
 
View attachment 564776
Looks like the center bolts, nuts, and washers give alignment.
Would I replace the center bolt of the leaf spring?
The center bolts in the leaf springs get replaced (not positive it was needed, but I did it), then the spacers (described as washers, they are super thick like a puck) fit in between the leaf spring and the upper isolator clamp in place of the rubber isolator.
 
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