Hey friends, it seems that after a one-hour drive, my engine is pretty warm. It starts to sputter and then cuts off while idle but turns right back on. I’m unsure if it’s a fuel problem or an air filter. My air filter is not that dirty, so I did check that the fuel filter Looks good. Do you have Any ideas on what it could be?
Sputter and cut off
- Thread starter brandvdub
- Start date
kevinm1955
New Member
What year, what type of ignition
It's a 66 Newport
I’ll check the ignition in the morning I’m not sure what kind it is off hand
If it's still the points ignition, it could well be a fuel issue. As in fuel pump and even the fuel pump pushrod being worn and shorter, meaning a shorter stroke of the pump. But for this, the
"re-starts easily" does not really fit, from my experiences.
If it is still a points ignition, it could be a failing condenser in the ignition system. Find one that is NOT a recent new one, but an older one. From the experiences of others.
If it is an electronic system (OEM Chrysler style), it could be a failing/overheated control box. The box grounds to the body with its mounting metal screw. But the "re-starts quickly" does not really work for that, either. Or any other electronic ignition system as when things in the control box or otherwise overheat, things must cool down first.
Hope this might help,
CBOSY67
"re-starts easily" does not really fit, from my experiences.
If it is still a points ignition, it could be a failing condenser in the ignition system. Find one that is NOT a recent new one, but an older one. From the experiences of others.
If it is an electronic system (OEM Chrysler style), it could be a failing/overheated control box. The box grounds to the body with its mounting metal screw. But the "re-starts quickly" does not really work for that, either. Or any other electronic ignition system as when things in the control box or otherwise overheat, things must cool down first.
Hope this might help,
CBOSY67
Based on these two wires (yellow arrow), I'll bet it's a Mopar electronic ignition. If so, this is a good thing.
Look around under the hood and see if there is a piece like this (may be a different color). If so, the car has been converted to electronic ignition and this is a good thing.
Here's the issue... Most of the problems that are blamed on the carburetor are actually problems with the ignition and that's why these guys are approaching it from that direction. I can tell you it's not going to be the air filter.
You'll have to be more descriptive with what is going on though. The type of ignition is huge here. You also need to say what engine and what exactly happens. We can see it's a big block (distributor in front), automatic (carb to trans linkage) and we can see an aftermarket Edelbrock carb on an Edelbrock manifold, but that's it.
When you say it dies at idle, do you mean the car is sitting, let's say at a traffic light and it sputters and stops then? Or is it when you let off the gas to coast, like coming up to a traffic light? It could be as simple as turning the idle speed up a bit... It could also be ignition timing.. By any chance is the AC running when this happens?
The fact that it restarts easily (from your description) points towards it not being a fuel delivery problem or a problem with excessive heat on the carb. It still could be a carb issue, float level comes to mind here.
Sir Dodge alot
Active Member
Hope I'm not putting something of "advice" that might not be necessary.
When "warm" so not hot and up to operating temperature? I see an aftermarket coil? some ignition coils are known to fail when hot but are ok when the engine is cold.
Swap to a known good coil, maybe even the stock coil if you still have it?
Do check if the distributor rotor return springs are not broken. (if stock)
Pop the dizzy cap off then twist the rotor, then let go of the rotor, if it returns to where it initially sat, it's good.
If the rotor flops around, your springs are broken.
When the engine does stall, pop the air cleaner off and look down the carb throat & pump the accelerator pump to check for fuel "squirt" in the carb. If no fuel, you are not getting an adequate supply of fuel.
Part of me says fueling issue, stuck or junk in carb needles/seats.
Really, just poke and prod around to entice those gremlins to show themselves.
When "warm" so not hot and up to operating temperature? I see an aftermarket coil? some ignition coils are known to fail when hot but are ok when the engine is cold.
Swap to a known good coil, maybe even the stock coil if you still have it?
Do check if the distributor rotor return springs are not broken. (if stock)
Pop the dizzy cap off then twist the rotor, then let go of the rotor, if it returns to where it initially sat, it's good.
If the rotor flops around, your springs are broken.
When the engine does stall, pop the air cleaner off and look down the carb throat & pump the accelerator pump to check for fuel "squirt" in the carb. If no fuel, you are not getting an adequate supply of fuel.
Part of me says fueling issue, stuck or junk in carb needles/seats.
Really, just poke and prod around to entice those gremlins to show themselves.
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