Stalling Fury.

[Micmaynard]

1970 Fury III, stock 318, I finally got the suspension and alignment sorted out so I decided it was safe to go to a cars and coffee show this morning. It was warm, 80-ish, not sunny, around 40 minutes of highway at 55-65.
seeing as this is the first real highway this car has seen in at least 5 years, it was a fantastic ride and a great show. I stayed at the show for +/- 2 hours, got back in the car, and headed home.
Around 3/4 of the way home, I decided to get off the highway and take back roads the rest of the way.
Here's the issue: at the bottom of the exit is a stop, where the car started running rough and nearly stalled. it did stall at the next intersection, and I had to drive two-footed at the following three stop signs until I got home. it was barely idling when I pulled into the driveway. I did notice that at the stop signs, I got a quick whiff of very rich exhaust.
Temp and oil pressure were normal.
let the car sit for an hour or so and restarted it, it wasn't hard to start, but it did run rough and smelled rich.

Before I dive in and start chasing my tail, I figured I would ask some seasoned veterans!

 

[halifaxhops]

Really have to see if it is a fuel problem or ignition can be either, have to find it when it happens yes a PIA

 

[CBODY67]

To me, the easiest thing to get off is the BBD 2bbl carb. Look for sloshing sounds in the brass floats. Also look at the tops of the brass tubes that stick up above the venturis, in the venturi cluster. Those are calibrated air bleeds, they need to be fully open without obstructions in them. If they close up, that sends the idle mixture toward the rich end of the scale on each venturi. If one was obstructed on the bottom of them, as in the solid brass tube without holes in its side, that would restrict idle fuel flow and the car would not idle after it got warmed up and came off of the automatic choke.

On my '80 Newport 360 2bbl, mine would not hot base idle after it came off of the fast idle cam. If I backed out of the throttle to slow down for an off-ramp, it'd die at 60mph. Finally found out about the "Low Speed Jet" near the bottom of the idle feed tube. It's flow car cleaner, but it was caked with hard deposits. After I got a twist drill set and went large enough to "get brass", problem vanished.

Being a '70, presuming it still has ignition points? Check the dwell reading. Then maybe test the current condenser against another good used one like it. If electronic, might need a new quality control box.

I suspect the plugs are sooty, so you can pull them and run a bent-wire gap gauge through them to clean the sparking surfaces. Maybe also knocking off the soot from the ground electrode, too.

Please let us know what you find,
CBODY67

 

[Micmaynard]

So, by "sloshing in the brass floats" you mean that the float may have a leak and gas may be inside the float causing it not to... float?

 

[CBODY67]

So, by "sloshing in the brass floats" you mean that the float may have a leak and gas may be inside the float causing it not to... float?

Yep. Requires new floats, unless you drill a new hole to drain them, then silver-solder that hole shut.

CBODY67

 

[Jakter]

I agree about the idle circuit in the carburetor.
If you haven't put a carb kit in it in years, I would start there with a cleaning and a kit.

 

[Micmaynard]

The carb looks terrible as it is right now, I think I'm going to bit the bullet and buy a rebuild kit. How hard could it be...

 

[Jakter]

Yep. Requires new floats, unless you drill a new hole to drain them, then silver-solder that hole shut.

CBODY67

I had a hard time soldering a float years ago. The heated expanding air would blow a hole in the solder. I eventually got it but I'm certain I did not use silver solder.

Is silver solder the trick to getting a seal easier?

 

[halifaxhops]

To me, the easiest thing to get off is the BBD 2bbl carb. Look for sloshing sounds in the brass floats. Also look at the tops of the brass tubes that stick up above the venturis, in the venturi cluster. Those are calibrated air bleeds, they need to be fully open without obstructions in them. If they close up, that sends the idle mixture toward the rich end of the scale on each venturi. If one was obstructed on the bottom of them, as in the solid brass tube without holes in its side, that would restrict idle fuel flow and the car would not idle after it got warmed up and came off of the automatic choke.

On my '80 Newport 360 2bbl, mine would not hot base idle after it came off of the fast idle cam. If I backed out of the throttle to slow down for an off-ramp, it'd die at 60mph. Finally found out about the "Low Speed Jet" near the bottom of the idle feed tube. It's flow car cleaner, but it was caked with hard deposits. After I got a twist drill set and went large enough to "get brass", problem vanished.

Being a '70, presuming it still has ignition points? Check the dwell reading. Then maybe test the current condenser against another good used one like it. If electronic, might need a new quality control box.

I suspect the plugs are sooty, so you can pull them and run a bent-wire gap gauge through them to clean the sparking surfaces. Maybe also knocking off the soot from the ground electrode, too.

Please let us know what you find,
CBODY67

So you got it?

 

[CBODY67]

I had a hard time soldering a float years ago. The heated expanding air would blow a hole in the solder. I eventually got it but I'm certain I did not use silver solder.

Is silver solder the trick to getting a seal easier?

Not sure which one it is, but might be high-nickel solder? Which can melt with a match, temper with some quenching water, and be very strong? I would not think it would be normal solder.

CBODY67

 

[1970FuryConv]

The carb looks terrible as it is right now, I think I'm going to bit the bullet and buy a rebuild kit. How hard could it be...

That Carter 2bbl carb is cake to rebuild. Just use an air gun to make sure all the passages are clear before reassemble.

 

[customsportsman]

Yup; I too have rebuilt BBDs. They are simple, and you can do it! Also, I had the same thing happen to me...twice....with my BBD. The problem ended up (both times), a piece of junk somehow got lodged between the needle and seat, thus holding the needle ever so so slightly off of the seat. This problem kept the seat from seating, and flooding me out at idle; just like you.

Good luck, and you will find the problem!

 

[MONC440]

Whenever I suspect a stuck float or something like that with the carb I pull of the air cleaner assembly, start the car then tap on the carb bowl area with a screwdriver handle. If the car runs better or worse when doing this you can be pretty sure it is the carb. I had a AFB carb once that about 2 or 3 times a year the float would stick and start bumping mass amounts of fuel into the engine. A couple of hard taps on the carb fixed it for a while. Lol

 

[Big_John]

1970 Fury III, stock 318, I finally got the suspension and alignment sorted out so I decided it was safe to go to a cars and coffee show this morning. It was warm, 80-ish, not sunny, around 40 minutes of highway at 55-65.
seeing as this is the first real highway this car has seen in at least 5 years, it was a fantastic ride and a great show. I stayed at the show for +/- 2 hours, got back in the car, and headed home.
Around 3/4 of the way home, I decided to get off the highway and take back roads the rest of the way.
Here's the issue: at the bottom of the exit is a stop, where the car started running rough and nearly stalled. it did stall at the next intersection, and I had to drive two-footed at the following three stop signs until I got home. it was barely idling when I pulled into the driveway. I did notice that at the stop signs, I got a quick whiff of very rich exhaust.
Temp and oil pressure were normal.
let the car sit for an hour or so and restarted it, it wasn't hard to start, but it did run rough and smelled rich.

Before I dive in and start chasing my tail, I figured I would ask some seasoned veterans!

How old is the gas?? Sounds like this car has sat for a bit.

 

[Polara_500_Jr]

I saw exactly this on my 40 Ford last week. Same issues. It was the carb float leaking as some here have suggested. It went to the point that the car would start, run for 10 seconds or so and a JET of fuel would spray out the side of the carburetor and you fought to keep it running. Quick float replacement on the side of the road and she's back running.

 

[Micmaynard]

How old is the gas?? Sounds like this car has sat for a bit.

I've been driving the car since March and the tank is half full with fresh 93 octane... Also the tank, fuel lines and filter are all new. That would have been my first thought too, bad gas or sediment.

 

[Micmaynard]

I saw exactly this on my 40 Ford last week. Same issues. It was the carb float leaking as some here have suggested. It went to the point that the car would start, run for 10 seconds or so and a JET of fuel would spray out the side of the carburetor and you fought to keep it running. Quick float replacement on the side of the road and she's back running.

All signs are pointing in that direction.

 

[Big_John]

All signs are pointing in that direction.

I still have mine from when I was a kid! It used to sit on my desk back when I worked for a living... I said I made all the important decisions with it.