Stalling, rough idle

Deke

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Finally got Esther tagged and this morning was to be her maiden voyage in Florida. Started fine, but noticed a little rough idle. In gear it’ll bog and stall. Start up again, put in gear move a few feet and stall again.
Kept left foot on brake and managed to back up the block and pull into the garage.

Since I’m not comfortable working under the hood, I’ll call someone to flatbed her to their shop. Maybe bad plugs, fuel filter or need a carb adjustment. Didn’t want to risk being on a main road and quit.

73 Fury Gran Sedan M-code 400 2bbl.
 
No idea to be honest. It’s sat in my garage for a month until I got it tagged. Gas smells OK and tank is full.

I would say it saw little use for maybe 5 years?
 
I would put a can of heat, and a can of stable in the tank. Let it mix up, and see what happens.
 
Might loosen the fuel cap and see if it will run better that way, in the driveway, and idle in gear. In gear, foot firmly on the brake, add a bit of throttle and see how it reacts.

Otherwise, check ALL of the rubber fuel lines, from the short section at the tank sending unit, to the junction near the rear of the front subframe rails, to the fuel pump, and on both sides of the fuel filter. I realize those are short sections, but one could have come apart internally, due to the ethanol content in the fuel, and be acting as a momentary one-way valve of sorts, restricting flow.

Might be time for a new fuel pump, too. Failing diaphragm and/or flaky internal check valves. Might be good to put a new fuel filter on, too, while your "in the neighborhood", down there? Look for any rust particles on the filter's input side, for general principles.

Check for vacuum leaks. Even the four nuts holding the carb to the intake manifold. Including the lines to the carbon cannister!

Keep us posted,
CBODY67
 
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With me being all thumbs, I’ll have to have someone look into this.

When moving in gear it bogs, “pops” then stalls. Idles like there’s a miss? Also from siting, the converter drained and forced some tranny fluid out.

I know they gotta be driven, but I gotta be able to drive it.
 
I would put a can of heat, and a can of stable in the tank. Let it mix up, and see what happens.
WTH is stabil going to do for the old gas now? All of Nothing?

why not let it idle and get some heat in the engine and then try it again.

how much gas shows on the gauge?
 
Gauge is inop, but tank is full. I can let it idle for a while, but don’t want to get stuck.

Ran long enough to come off fast idle, kicked it again before backing out of the garage. After stalling, started but seemed to act like the carb was flooded.

With left foot on brake and right on gas was able to back up the street then pull forward into the garage.
Frustrating to say the least. It’s beautiful cruising weather today, too!
 
I would put new gas in before trying anything else. I have some cars I rarely drive and after five to six years they won´t run until I put fresh gas in.
 
Before you do all the work and dumping gas. Run a hose from inlet of fuel pump to a jug of fresh gas and see if it runs better. Either a one quart or gallon oil jug works great. In theory it should run better but if not look elsewhere for you problem.
 
There is a product that allegedly will make "old gas" useable, BUT Stabil is not it. Stabil will delay it becoming "old gas", but not go the other way.

The "pop" could indicate a malfunctioning accelerator pump in the carb. The Holley usually has a silicone pump cup, which might stand up to modern gasoline too well.

If the carb comes off of fast idle, but still acts "like it's flooded", that might indicate a sticking chole plate, which is the result of another carb issue related to the Holley 2210 family of 2bbls and the Stromberg WWCs that came before it.

What may well be happening is "phase separation" of the fuel in the tank, IF it's the same fuel that's been in there all along. Until the tank is drained and flushed, the fuel system will NOT act as it should, period. Don't "dump" the fuel, but pump it out into several 5 gallon gas cans. Let it sit and settle, "the gunk" from phase separation should sink to the bottom. "The gunk" is the result of atmospheric moisture, or condensate in the tank, combining with the ethanol in the fuel. It always settles to the bottom of the tank, which is also where the fuel pickup tube is. The strainer on the pickup is supposed to minimize "water" getting further into the fuel system, so that might be where the main restriction to fuel flow might be.

You can drain the tank either by using a pump and hose (hose inserted through the tank's filler tube) or possibly taking the fuel inlet tube loose from the fuel pump and letting it drain into a large receptacle, then pumping it with an external pump to get it all out. An empty fuel tank is much lighter than one with fuel in it! Then remove the tank and flush it out, along with cleaning up the sending unit while the tank is out, for good measure.

When reinstalling the tank, with a new hose on the sending unit, BE SURE that the special clamp that is the fuel gauge's ground between the sending unit and the fuel line is replaced and operational.

On the fuel that you've removed and in the gas cans, you might re-use it, once the gunk has settled to the bottom of the gas cans, leaving it there as the "upper levels" of gas is reclaimed. The octane enhancers of the fuel (including the ethanol) will be gone, so some octane booster might be needed for best results. OR use the reclaimed fuel in your lawn mower, putting fresh fuel into the vehicle's fuel tank.

Considering your location in FL, and the related humidity levels, phase separation could well be what's causing these issues. Still replace the rubber sections of the fuel line, tank to carb, as the new rubber hose will better tolerate modern fuels than what came out on the car, new, will . . . before they fail or cause problems.

Might need to pull the top off of the carb and flush out the float bowl, too. Or have a competent technician "kit" the carb.

As for the 2bbl carb issues I mentioned earlier, PM me for the details. I've "been there" on both the Stromberg WWC (our '66 Newport) and on the Holley 2210-family carb (our '72 Newport 400 2bbl).

CBODY67
 
What kinda carb ? 4 barrel or 2 barrel Holley or Carter ? I would check all the air bleeds on the carb ....my guess they are plugged ...
 
What kinda carb ? 4 barrel or 2 barrel Holley or Carter ? I would check all the air bleeds on the carb ....my guess they are plugged ...
I was told the original 2bbl was replaced, but don’t know with what. Since I’m “mechanically challenged”. I’ll have to rely on a shop that readily works on old cars. It’s a AAA shop and will pick up and deliver because of the whole quarantine issue.
 
There was only ONE 2bbl for the 1972 400 B V-8. A Holley 2210 2bbl (but a few different models of that for the particular vehicle's equipment and emissions specs). Unless the replacement was with a prior model year Carter BBD 1.56" 2bbl, either one or the other. The carburetor "tag" or "stamp number" will identify what's on there currently.

It's nice to own and drive an older car, BUT in modern times, the owner/operator needs to have a basic knowledge of what the car is and the equipment/components it might have on it.

A repair shop might well be certified/recommended by a national, respected organization, BUT also consider that an older car is not usually what they see in the shop for repairs. Certainly, the certification/recommendation CAN give them a greater amount of credibility, BUT unless those that work there KNOW and UNDERSTAND something that's 40+ years old, there might be "some mis-fires", possibly. NOT that they couldn't learn or "figure it out", but finding a shop that's credible, reasonably-priced, AND understands vintage Chrysler products (as each of the Big Three, back then, each had their own "quirks" about them). In other words, the systems might be similar and operate similarly, BUT how they were repaired were quite different, in many cases. Same would apply with a Ford or GM, but more people have probably seen more older GMs and Fords, compared to older Chrysler products. BTAIM.

Being "mechanically challenged" is something that many of us have experienced at one time or another. Happens to everybody, sooner or later. BUT many of us got past that, as sometimes we had to, because the quality of the repairs that were done on our cars was not what it should have been. Hence, we learned to do a good bit of our own stuff. AND find the better places to get things we couldn't do, done. Book learning can go only so far, which is where good mentors come into play.

The OTHER thing is to know enough about your vehicle to be able to ask the right questions, convey the correct information of what appears to be wrong with the vehicle, in the hopeful end result that you get quality repairs at reasonable prices. Plus possibly build a friendly customer/repair shop relationship in the process.

Key thing is that you don't feel you're "at the mercy" of some repair shop and what they can do, in order to drive and enjoy ANY older vehicle. Knowing what made Chrysler products different from similar Ford and GM products can go a long way, too, to me. Just as learning the quirks of getting it to operate correctly can be important, too. But when "right", they do so many things very well.

Do keep us advised of what the shop might determine,

Thanks,
CBODY67
 
There was only ONE 2bbl for the 1972 400 B V-8. A Holley 2210 2bbl (but a few different models of that for the particular vehicle's equipment and emissions specs). Unless the replacement was with a prior model year Carter BBD 1.56" 2bbl, either one or the other. The carburetor "tag" or "stamp number" will identify what's on there currently.

It's nice to own and drive an older car, BUT in modern times, the owner/operator needs to have a basic knowledge of what the car is and the equipment/components it might have on it.

A repair shop might well be certified/recommended by a national, respected organization, BUT also consider that an older car is not usually what they see in the shop for repairs. Certainly, the certification/recommendation CAN give them a greater amount of credibility, BUT unless those that work there KNOW and UNDERSTAND something that's 40+ years old, there might be "some mis-fires", possibly. NOT that they couldn't learn or "figure it out", but finding a shop that's credible, reasonably-priced, AND understands vintage Chrysler products (as each of the Big Three, back then, each had their own "quirks" about them). In other words, the systems might be similar and operate similarly, BUT how they were repaired were quite different, in many cases. Same would apply with a Ford or GM, but more people have probably seen more older GMs and Fords, compared to older Chrysler products. BTAIM.

Being "mechanically challenged" is something that many of us have experienced at one time or another. Happens to everybody, sooner or later. BUT many of us got past that, as sometimes we had to, because the quality of the repairs that were done on our cars was not what it should have been. Hence, we learned to do a good bit of our own stuff. AND find the better places to get things we couldn't do, done. Book learning can go only so far, which is where good mentors come into play.

The OTHER thing is to know enough about your vehicle to be able to ask the right questions, convey the correct information of what appears to be wrong with the vehicle, in the hopeful end result that you get quality repairs at reasonable prices. Plus possibly build a friendly customer/repair shop relationship in the process.

Key thing is that you don't feel you're "at the mercy" of some repair shop and what they can do, in order to drive and enjoy ANY older vehicle. Knowing what made Chrysler products different from similar Ford and GM products can go a long way, too, to me. Just as learning the quirks of getting it to operate correctly can be important, too. But when "right", they do so many things very well.

Do keep us advised of what the shop might determine,

Thanks,
CBODY67

I literally had this same discussion with the father-in-law of the annoying neighbor. Nice guy, old MoPar guy. And we both agreed on that... as I was replacing both my front wheel cylinders that locked up.

Easy to buy one... can get almost any car now. But you have to be able to support it... that's the hard part
 
Good news. Had Esther picked up Wednesday morning, heard today that a spark plug wire was loose causing the intermittent miss, timing and carb needed to be adjusted. Needs a tranny pan gasket, fuel tank sending unit (gauge works) and the A/C system will be upgraded to R134.
Gas in the tank is good. Will be delivered on a couple of days.
 
Needs a tranny pan gasket

About that... To someone not real familiar with the Mopar trans, they often think it's the pan gasket that leaks. The real leak is coming from the gear selector seal on the left side of the trans, just above the pan rail.

What I suggest, is that even if it is the pan gasket, the tech should change the two seals while the pan is off. One seal is around the shaft and one is a small rubber seal where the throttle linkage attaches.
 
About that... To someone not real familiar with the Mopar trans, they often think it's the pan gasket that leaks. The real leak is coming from the gear selector seal on the left side of the trans, just above the pan rail.

What I suggest, is that even if it is the pan gasket, the tech should change the two seals while the pan is off. One seal is around the shaft and one is a small rubber seal where the throttle linkage attaches.
I will mention that tomorrow when I talk with him.
Thanks
 
the A/C system will be upgraded to R134

Wait a second — is that an easy thing to do properly? What’s the plan here?

PS: glad you found the solution to the other problems.
 
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