blue88
Active Member
Not sure about durometer.... I could check... i guess you could get a little more "road" feel with the puck.. if it is harder. But, i have welded em up solid on race cars in the past with no ill effect.
Steering isolator/coupler
- Thread starter Catfish
- Start date
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I thought mine was original. Maybe because mine had manual steering?
Parts book please... LOL!!
FWIW, A hockey puck checks 90-91 durometer on the Shore "A" scale. I have no idea what the coupler should check.
We checked some hockey pucks for a customer that tests goalie masks and helmets. They fire them out of an air cannon at the masks.
We checked some hockey pucks for a customer that tests goalie masks and helmets. They fire them out of an air cannon at the masks.
Badvert65
Well-Known Member
The thick one pictured is correct (at least on my 1965 Fury). They were used on a variety of Mopars. I found one on a 73 RoadRunner. Mopar used to have them and they cost about $75 new but that was a few years ago (199?) that I bought mine. I will look to see if I can find the OE part number.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
The original Mopar # was 3575303.
moparnutcase
Senior Member
I installed the one from Bouchillon on my '65 Monaco last year. In case you do not know....this part is solid billet. There is no rubber. One thing you may have to do (I did) is loosen the bolts under the dash that holds the steering column. This actually aligns everything after installation. The column will slide right into place when loosened. The factory units had play and were not a perfect fit. A big caution....check your nuts every once in awhile....mine started coming loose I am assuming due to the fact that the new coupler is solid metal and vibration caused it.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Always good advice, regardless...
I have built many, many derby Mopars with the universal. But, I always cut and welded the column solid from the firewall all the way down to a knuckle that slid right onto to steering box. Are you guys suggesting cutting the shaft where the rag is and welding in the universal there? I suppose it would work if it was clocked right to match the factory crap at the steering box?
No rubber? So yours looks nothing like the one they picture on their website?
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
I knew you wouldn't let that go by. . .
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
What cars had these?
I have 3 different 1969 Polara, 2 with the regular slip coupler and 1 with the rag joint (thick style)
The 2 with the slip coupler are power steering and earlier build dates.
The 1 with the rag joint is manual steering and a later build date.
Alan
I have 3 different 1969 Polara, 2 with the regular slip coupler and 1 with the rag joint (thick style)
The 2 with the slip coupler are power steering and earlier build dates.
The 1 with the rag joint is manual steering and a later build date.
Alan
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
AHA! So my rag joint was original. And the Dorman one is for manual steering only cars....
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
ah but mine is the thick Bouchillon style one 165k most likely original.
Mine has a drum around it, been told it is a guard in case of fatigue, I'm thinking more of a heat shield.
Alan
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Yes, mine had the shield also.
300rag
It's Not Going to Shift Itself
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Lots of good advise here
1) check your nuts.
2) use rubber
3) don't let heat get to rubber causes fatigue
4) if rubber is no good replace
All good advise
1) check your nuts.
2) use rubber
3) don't let heat get to rubber causes fatigue
4) if rubber is no good replace
All good advise
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
moparnutcase
Senior Member
It is exactly the one from the website. It is painted black to look like the original. Solid billet.....no rubber.
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