Steering Wheel "Horn Pad" removal

[FarCanal]

Hi Fellas
Took my 1 Owner, 63k Mile, all original 440 Coupe, in for a complete front end renewal (after years of procuring the parts), only to find the Suspension Specialist was reluctant to remove and "re-clock" my Steering Wheel after finding no discernable removal points ! I reckon a flat headed screw=driver under the edges would do the job, but as my car is Imported, he was scared to try this ! So .... does anyone out there have the CORRECT way of removing this pad, so we can the pull the wheel and re-clock it to it's correct position ???
Please reply
Cheers, Big Jim - DownUnder
P.S. Where can I obtain a new plastic "Indicator Canceller Bar", to replace, whilst wheel is off ?
P.S.S. Pic in Oz for your pleasure

 

[bigmoparjeff]

You can't re-clock the steering wheel. It has a master spline so that it only goes on in one position.

If your suspension "specialist" doesn't know how to center the wheel by adjusting the tie rods, it's time to find someone else to align the car.

Jeff

 

[FarCanal]

You can't re-clock the steering wheel. It has a master spline so that it only goes on in one position.

If your suspension "specialist" doesn't know how to center the wheel by adjusting the tie rods, it's time to find someone else to align the car.

Jeff

Thanks for your reply
He states that doing the way you suggest, is moving the BRAND NEW STEERING BOX from it's absolute central position (vital) ?
I've played with plenty of MOPARS, and all had a Multi-Spline, so your saying this is NOT the case with the New Yorker ?
Does anyone have a pic with the Wheel off ??? (Just so I can prove to the "eggspert" what is)
Please reply
Cheers
Big Jim - DownUnder

 

[bigmoparjeff]

The only Mopar products that I'm aware of that don't have master splines are the four wheel drive trucks with the solid drag link. They are the only vehicles that you have to pull the wheel off to center it.

Being slightly off-center on the box is no issue at all.

Jeff

 

[PH27L7]

Your suspension guy hasn't a clue. Adjust tie rods an identical amount to move wheels in same direction, this will move steering wheel center. Recheck toe-in if any doubt about the identical part.

Why would you need to replace the box at so low miles? Same for suspension parts. Typically the only thing that goes is the upper control arm rubber bushings, and possibly the lower control arm and strut rod bushings. I always inspect the original parts and replace only as necessary. The replacement parts currently available are generally far lower quality than original.

I would look at the factory service manual for horn pad removal procedure for your car & look up the turn signal lever in the parts book & try to find a NOS one.

 

[75LandYacht]

Hmmm, if ALL parts have been replaced with OE or Like parts with No mods then the wheel shouldn’t be off center. As mentioned above! The shop should be able to adjust the linkage to straighten the wheel.. is Linkage adjustments can be made, and you state the Box was replaced, maybe have him pull the column Yoke off the box and reposition it when the wheel is centered.. someone correct please me if what I said isn’t an option, because I own one of these too and am curious. just my 2cents.

 

[PH27L7]

Hmmm, if ALL parts have been replaced with OE or Like parts with No mods then the wheel shouldn’t be off center. As mentioned above! The shop should be able to adjust the linkage to straighten the wheel.. is Linkage adjustments can be made, and you state the Box was replaced, maybe have him pull the column Yoke off the box and reposition it when the wheel is centered.. someone correct please me if what I said isn’t an option, because I own one of these too and am curious. just my 2cents.

Wrong! All steering parts have master splines- steering wheel, box at pitman arm as well as column. You can file the master splines off but that's really half-assed. If the tie rods are adjusted or replaced with new parts you will virtually always need to re-center the steering wheel.

 

[413]

I have seen mopar steering boxes that can not be centered no matter what you do to adjustments.

makes me wonder if they have been apart and have a mismatch of parts inside.

EDIT: The pitman arm to steering box has 4 master splines and can be turned 90 degrees. I tried this on the problem car 1970 B-body but it was way off and made the problem worse .

The column to steering box has one master spline so it is only a one way install, just like the Steering wheel.

 

[FarCanal]

Your suspension guy hasn't a clue. Adjust tie rods an identical amount to move wheels in same direction, this will move steering wheel center. Recheck toe-in if any doubt about the identical part.

Why would you need to replace the box at so low miles? Same for suspension parts. Typically the only thing that goes is the upper control arm rubber bushings, and possibly the lower control arm and strut rod bushings. I always inspect the original parts and replace only as necessary. The replacement parts currently available are generally far lower quality than original.

I would look at the factory service manual for horn pad removal procedure for your car & look up the turn signal lever in the parts book & try to find a NOS one.

Howdy
We ALL realise what you are saying SHOULD be the case, But I am assured it's not = problem exists as I described / he is NO FOOL !!!
I have replaced EVERYTHING up front, including A/C, Radiator, Water Pump, Power Steer etc etc & new transmission whilst I fitted an up-graded 500+Hp engine.
Just slowly collected it all over the past 4 years, then said "Go for it" = so I KNOW she is bulletproof for the rest of my life, and can blow most opposition away !
I pay for the FUEL and my previous 318 Aussie 1967 Phoenix went harder .... so why not have the power I am paying for ?
Besides I got the engine at a Speed Shop / Engine builders Liquidation Auction for $2k .... BIG DOLLARS spent internally - see pic
Cheers

 

[PH27L7]

I have seen mopar steering boxes that can not be centered no matter what you do to adjustments.

makes me wonder if they have been apart and have a mismatch of parts inside.

Thought about that and there are only a few ways that the wheel could not be centered. Parts could be damaged or replacement tie rods could be improper length. You could also have installed the column to box 90 degrees off. There is a lot of adjustment in the stock tie rods to center the wheel, an off hand guess would be somewhere around 45 degrees either way in steering wheel movement.

 

[PH27L7]

Howdy
We ALL realise what you are saying SHOULD be the case, But I am assured it's not = problem exists as I described / he is NO FOOL !!!
I have replaced EVERYTHING up front, including A/C, Radiator, Water Pump, Power Steer etc etc & new transmission whilst I fitted an up-graded 500+Hp engine.
Just slowly collected it all over the past 4 years, then said "Go for it" = so I KNOW she is bulletproof for the rest of my life, and can blow most opposition away !
I pay for the FUEL and my previous 318 Aussie 1967 Phoenix went harder .... so why not have the power I am paying for ?
Besides I got the engine at a Speed Shop / Engine builders Liquidation Auction for $2k .... BIG DOLLARS spent internally - see pic
Cheers

View attachment 366176

If you're happy with your guy's knowledge base, then great! Likewise for replacing parts on a low mileage car for peace of mind. BTW, great looking car!

 

[Big_John]

Howdy
We ALL realise what you are saying SHOULD be the case, But I am assured it's not = problem exists as I described / he is NO FOOL !!!
I have replaced EVERYTHING up front, including A/C, Radiator, Water Pump, Power Steer etc etc & new transmission whilst I fitted an up-graded 500+Hp engine.
Just slowly collected it all over the past 4 years, then said "Go for it" = so I KNOW she is bulletproof for the rest of my life, and can blow most opposition away !
I pay for the FUEL and my previous 318 Aussie 1967 Phoenix went harder .... so why not have the power I am paying for ?
Besides I got the engine at a Speed Shop / Engine builders Liquidation Auction for $2k .... BIG DOLLARS spent internally - see pic
Cheers

View attachment 366176

It's a real easy adjustment, but no one seems to be telling you how it's done.

Tie rod sleeves are loosened and one side is turned (let's say a quarter turn) and the other side is turned the opposite way the exact same amount. Pretty easy and Mopar steering 101. This actually turns the wheels slightly.

If you really want to, you can do this yourself... Just turn the sleeves the exact amount in opposite directions and your toe in won't be affected. It might take a couple tries to get it right, but this shouldn't be something that your mechanic doesn't understand.

 

[FarCanal]

It's a real easy adjustment, but no one seems to be telling you how it's done.

Tie rod sleeves are loosened and one side is turned (let's say a quarter turn) and the other side is turned the opposite way the exact same amount. Pretty easy and Mopar steering 101. This actually turns the wheels slightly.

If you really want to, you can do this yourself... Just turn the sleeves the exact amount in opposite directions and your toe in won't be affected. It might take a couple tries to get it right, but this shouldn't be something that your mechanic doesn't understand.

Howdy
My understanding is, when this done each Tie Rod Adjuster has one end fully inserted (safe), the other, only a few threads (VERY unsafe) - I'm beginning to believe the problem lies in my "Rag-Joint" being installed 180 degrees out - thus leaving such a huge margin (T'was replaced with a Nolathane part here, before going into Shop).
Cheers

 

[Big_John]

Howdy
My understanding is, when this done each Tie Rod Adjuster has one end fully inserted (safe), the other, only a few threads (VERY unsafe) - I'm beginning to believe the problem lies in my "Rag-Joint" being installed 180 degrees out - thus leaving such a huge margin (T'was replaced with a Nolathane part here, before going into Shop).
Cheers

OK, you didn't say it was 180 degrees out. All this makes sense why your mechanic couldn't correct this with the tie rod adjustment.

I figured it was just off a few degrees.... So, yea, you have to take the rag joint apart and spin it 180 degrees. It shouldn't be too hard.

 

[FarCanal]

If you're happy with your guy's knowledge base, then great! Likewise for replacing parts on a low mileage car for peace of mind. BTW, great looking car!

Howdy
I understand the nay-sayers, but I'm touching 60 years old, and out of the blue won $30k .... Sooooo I decided to "Bulletproof" my "Toys" thus NEVER having to worry about them for the rest of my for-see-able life, leaving my Pension free of a "one day, probable debt" to live on, as the cost to keep my vehicles on-road are only skyrocketing ! Now I only need worry about Oil Changes ! Pic of my Bike for your perusal.