Stop lights stay on 1958 Dodge Custom Royal

Bucket

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While i wait for my FSM to turn up i will have to ask some questions .
The brake lights on my 1958 Dodge Custom Royal stay on if i leave the battery negative connected .
Car isn't on the road yet so it isn't a problem just yet , but i would like to get it fixed .
I found this diagram which shows the brake light switch at the front of the master cylinder .
But on my car it is underneath .
The master cylinder has recently been rebuilt by the previous owner so i was wondering if the brake line has been put back in the wrong port .
But it doesn't look the the brake line has ever been bent or would fit underneath .
I'm thinking the switch might be bad or do you have any other suggestions .
Cheers,
Bucket

Brake pedal assembly.jpg


P1020301.JPG
 
Pressure wise, both ports are the same. If you unplug one of the wires of the switch, do the brake lights go off? If so, it is definitely a bad switch.
 
I agree with the bad switch. My 60 Dart had the same problem. It was my cue to swap in a dual bowl master and while I was at it, I robbed a brake light switch from a 65 Dodge and mounted it to the brake pedal eliminating that pressure switch.
 
Very likely a bad switch. Those pressure type switches seem to go bad after a bunch of years. They are pretty cheap, although I think you will probably have to bleed the MC after.
 
You will find that the 1955 - 1961 Stop Light Switch is N O T commonly available, has been discounted/
Obsolete by all present companies…. It is the ONLY switch that uses 1/4 “ thread….

I have a good many of them , purposely , *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made *** if you want……

P.M. me, as per forum rules, if interested…..
 
You will find that the 1955 - 1961 Stop Light Switch is N O T commonly available, has been discounted/
Obsolete by all present companies…. It is the ONLY switch that uses 1/4 “ thread….

I have a good many of them , purposely , *** N.O.S. *** U.S.A. made *** if you want……

P.M. me, as per forum rules, if interested…..
You continue to astound me, Craig!

You are the MAN!
 
^^^ The depth where it activates is now wrong ^^^ and the switch plus the fitting is more $$$ than I sell the 100 % correct switch....
And you have to monkey rig the wires , too.....with your monkey rig there Jakter.....

Why not simply be perfect ????
 
^^^ The depth where it activates is now wrong ^^^ and the switch plus the fitting is more $$$ than I sell the 100 % correct switch....
And you have to monkey rig the wires , too.....with your monkey rig there Jakter.....

Why not simply be perfect ????
I've had that set-up for 10 years now on one of my cars and it performs flawlessly to this day.
The poster may be able to find the switch and adapter locally.
The wiring is minimal.

Are you adding shipping to Australia?
 
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NO —- NOT an SLS28, but an SLS29 , which has been Dead for Decades…..( I have plenty , as mentioned ) if you need or want….. Craig…..
 
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