Storage during deployment.

[Yeahrightgreer]

Hola Señores.

I’m still pretty new to older vehicles and especially this New Yorker. Got her about 2 months ago.

We’re getting ready to deploy here pretty soon and I just want to clear up some things on storage.

What kind of things will I be looking at when I get back that I should check for on the car to get her driving again and what kind of things should I do before leaving besides putting Stabil in. It should be about a 9 month period.

P.s. I’m sure there’s other threads on this so feel free to point me there.

 

[70Tom]

Some fabric softener sheets in the interior help keep rodents away. Block your tailpipes so none can crawl up in there. Obviously disconnect battery. While flat spots are less common, putting the car on jackstands may not be a bad idea.

 

[shooter65]

Probably goes without saying but you should make sure your gas tank is filled to limit condensation. Depending on where it's stored, Battery Tender's work very well also. You may want to get a car cover also, depending where the car will be stored.

 

[Davea Lux]

Hola Señores.

I’m still pretty new to older vehicles and especially this New Yorker. Got her about 2 months ago.

We’re getting ready to deploy here pretty soon and I just want to clear up some things on storage.

What kind of things will I be looking at when I get back that I should check for on the car to get her driving again and what kind of things should I do before leaving besides putting Stabil in. It should be about a 9 month period.

P.s. I’m sure there’s other threads on this so feel free to point me there.

Putting some rodent bait boxes outside of the storage area is also a good idea.

 

[live4theking]

Maybe even put a dry sheet in the air cleaner to deter them from trying to make a home there.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

While flat spots are less common, putting the car on jackstands may not be a bad idea.

Where exactly do you tend to support a fusey from? Ive had a few people tell me to use the forward end of the frame rails closest to the wheel well before it slopes upward and I've had some rather disappointing luck with that.. Lots of bends... Its honestly scared me off from jacking the thing up again. I know the FSM references the lower control arms but it feels like the vehicle wouldn't truly support that weight without bending also.

 

[Davea Lux]

Where exactly do you tend to support a fusey from? Ive had a few people tell me to use the forward end of the frame rails closest to the wheel well before it slopes upward and I've had some rather disappointing luck with that.. Lots of bends... Its honestly scared me off from jacking the thing up again. I know the FSM references the lower control arms but it feels like the vehicle wouldn't truly support that weight without bending also.

You can support the fury with jack stands under the rear axle, nothing will bend there.

If bending the stub frame is a worry, jack it up and put wood blocks 6x6 or larger under the cross member and under the frame rails below the firewall mounts. Should not cause any damage.

Dave

 

[Polara_500]

Ummm, you do realize the lower control arms support the whole front of that beast now, don't you? If it can take all but a Duke's jump at speed, it should handle a couple months of immobility.

 

[Wildaugust]

These cars originally came with bumper jacks so, lifting from the bumpers must have been considered a safe place to support the weight. If I'm lifting the front, I will place my stands under the bumper brackets, close to the stub frame or under the stub frame right where the brackets attach to it. I usually will lift the rear under the axle, as mentioned. I haven't had any issues.

 

[SPF Required]

These guys know their stuff. I am just posting to thank you for your service!

 

[75LandYacht]

From one Military man to another! Thanks for your service brother..

As to your Ride! I would change all the fluids. Oil, antifreeze, tranny etc.. when Fluids are used.. they collect debris and acids that can damage internals when sitting for LONG periods of time. Fluid changes are Cheap Insurance. Lifting the car to take SOME weight of the tires to prevent flat spots is a great idea as mentioned above, but support it with the weight of the car ON the suspension! As mentioned above, put the jacks under the axle in the rear and under the control arms in the front, yet the tires can still touch the deck without the Weight of the car.. Don’t left the springs HANG.. No Good.. I spent 12 of my 20 yrs being deployed. I feel your pain in deploying.. be safe ok!!

Thank you for your service.

 

[1978 NYB]

Not only is this the best forum on the planet but there is a lot of Veterans here too. I was deployed 15.5 out of 20 years. Stay safe and we'll see you when you get back to the "WORLD".

Thanks for your service!

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

This is what I do - 30 years and no issues:

1) I don't usually lift my car up, and have had no problems with flat spots on the tires - I usually pump the tires up to 45 pounds for the winter to keep them well seated. Don't drive on them with that kind of pressure though!

If you do choose to lift the car up, don't allow the suspension to hang - I suggest you lift the car at rear axle under the spring perches, and at the front from under the lower control arms (using wood blocks will spread the load over any uneven surfaces/fastener ends). That way the car is supported at the suspension and essentially it thinks it's sitting on the ground.

While it can be done, I'm not a fan of lifting up the car long term by the frame rails or bumper brackets - any lifting which allows the suspension to hang is not the best in my opinion - when I did that, the doors on my car became hard to open and close which indicated to me that the body was flexing. This is on a rust free totally solid car. That says something. Support it on the wheels as above.

2) Disconnect the battery and put a trickle charger on it (Battery Tender type).

3) Dryer sheets inside, in the tail pipes, and in the air cleaner. DON'T FORGET THOSE WHEN YOU START THE CAR BACK UP. I also put dessicant packs inside the car and the trunk to absorb moisture.

4) Car cover.

5) Fill the tank as far as possible, put stabilizer in it first to mix it in as you fill with gas.

6) Dryer sheets on TOP of the the tires - mice like to climb up the tires to gain access to the car - they won't if there's a dryer sheet in their pathway. I also put dryer sheets on the floor around the tires.

7) My storage area has concrete floors, which is known to allow moisture to flow through and promote rust - so I park my car on OSB four 4x8 sheets. I also run a dehumidifier with a hose to a drain or outside. The hose might freeze in the winter, so perhaps someone can check on that and empty the tank if you can't run the drain hose to a floor drain or outside.

8) Make sure the parking brake is OFF, but lubricate the ends of the cables where the come out of the sheath and apply and release the parking brake a few times. Re-lube the cables again to guard against rust. Leave it off so the brake shoes don't rust to the drums.

WHEN YOU START HER UP FIRST TIME AFTER STORAGE

1) Remove the dryer sheets from the air cleaner.

2) Disconnect the coil wire

3) Connect the battery

4) Crank the car for 3 10 second bursts to push oil through the motor while not overheating the starter.

5) Connect the coil wire and check that the choke is set.

6) Perhaps a drop or two of gas down the carb throat to promote a fast catch, then start the engine and run it for a few minutes with the transmission in NEUTRAL to run the trans pump and fill the valve body. DON'T ENGAGE THE TRANS before you run it for a few minutes in neutral first, or if the trans has drained back you'll burn off the friction material on your clutches.

 

[live4theking]

I agree with all of the above.

Thank you for your service.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

I appreciate all of your guys help. Im still new to working on older cars and this forum has been a big help!

 

[1978 NYB]

I appreciate all of your guys help. Im still new to working on older cars and this forum has been a big help!

Do you know about the big Mopar car show in Carlisle, PA? It is held every year the weekend after the 4th of July. 82 acres of Mopar's. We had some pretty impressive FCBO gathering at that show the last few years. Would be nice to see you and your car there when you return.

Carlisle Chrysler Nationals - Collector Car Show and Swap Meet, Everything Mopar, Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth, AMC, Jeep, and RAM

Jul 13-15, 2018
Adult Admission: Daily Fri.- Sat. $12 / Sun $7 / Event Pass $25
Thursday - Set Up/Load In Day - $12
Kids 12 and Under FREE
Event Hours Fri-Sat 7am-6pm , Sun 7am-3pm


Countdown to Showtime - 2018!
239 days 5 hours and 22 minutes
Register for the Show Buy Event Passes
Welcome to a true Mopar-lover’s paradise. There’s nothing quite like it anywhere in the world with nearly 3,000 vehicles from all eras of the Chrysler brand, classics, muscle cars, high-performance new models all converge on Carlisle for a one of a kind weekend. You need to be here for the enormous showfield that is organized by year, make and model, special indoor displays, activities for the kids, industry guests, and special prizes. Interested in parts buying? Look no further! You’ll be amazed at the size of the swap meet, the variety of vendors, the car corral and the Manufacturers Midway. Whether you prefer the A, B or E body style – this show has it all!

By popular demand, gates are open Thursday at a full-price admission, though parking is FREE. Thursday is a set up/load in day for both vendors and those showing cars. By attending Thursday, you just might find a steal of a deal within the swap meet or on the midway. You can also catch a glimpse of the action before anyone else. Thursday evening features a FREE kick off party at the neighboring Carlisle Expo Center as well.