strong engine mounts 1969 c body 440
- Thread starter Flemming Navntoft
- Start date
C-Sick
Member
I'd be worried about vibes if it was a Cummins 4BT or 6BT. I've ridden in a few cars with solid mounts, engine plates etc. Maybe not everyone's cup of tea, but not too terrible in my opinion. NVH sensitivity is a very personal thing...
I did buy rubber mounts, for a basically stock JY 383. I will likely add the steel mounts when things get rowdier.
I did buy rubber mounts, for a basically stock JY 383. I will likely add the steel mounts when things get rowdier.
I believe that very few owners of C-barges on this forum would be happy with solid mounts. Remember this: It's not your backside that feels the vibration through your seat that is the problem. Nope. But you'll feel every cylinder firing in your steering wheel, and your dash will jiggle and buzz, being as the steering box is 9 inches from the solid mount, bolted to the same slab of robust k-frame steel.
I raced an A/Gas Anglia in the 70s/80s, and believe me, the giant, injected, 13.4:1 Rat motor was solidly mounted! Solids are great for hot-rodders like I once was. Now I'm a C8 Vette (pending, probably pushed to March/April now) and 1970 Chrysler guy. Even my Ducati has rubber mounts, thankfully!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Start a thread. Bob has to hold onto his vehicles for awhile and they're running out of steam now...
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Please no!!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
These bolts would work great with a little work
It looks cool, but despite their name, an elevator bolt is not a strong fastener. It's used for attaching the ends of conveyor belts [grain "elevator"], thus the big flat head to keep it from pulling through the soft belt material.
Interesting thing......the link I provided to the dodgecharger forum (it's working now, btw) had a similar discussion and worrying about what bolt to use, and this sort of thing is common in every car and motorcycle forum. But may I suggest that forum members simply get a Grade 8 hex bolt or two, grind the head down a bit, drill the mount, and permanently solve the broken motor mount problem? It's that simple.
Interesting thing......the link I provided to the dodgecharger forum (it's working now, btw) had a similar discussion and worrying about what bolt to use, and this sort of thing is common in every car and motorcycle forum. But may I suggest that forum members simply get a Grade 8 hex bolt or two, grind the head down a bit, drill the mount, and permanently solve the broken motor mount problem? It's that simple.
oldkimmer
Active Member
Why doesn’t anyone use what Chrysler used on the 69 383 cars. This is the last 1 I have. This one is 7 9/16 ctc. Kim
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commando1
Old Man with a Hat
1. Most people don't know about this obscure factory item.
2. Try and find one.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
Flemming Navntoft
Senior Member
i think i gonna order new standard motor mounts and i gonna make my own torque straps i have sent a mail to mike Schumacher Creative Services but no reply yet
Flemming Navntoft
Senior Member
Thanks everybody for good ideas and help i appreciate it
This is what I did (I used stainless fasteners). I also used a jam nut so I could leave a little slack in it to permit the mount to cushion the engine vibrations and not worry about the nut backing itself off. 2 or 3 years in, no issues, and I don't even notice the mod.
Nicely done. That mount will last forever. Literally!
And yes, you MUST leave some slack in the bolt/nut, using either a Nylok nut or Locktite Threadlocker so the mount can act as a vibration dampener. Otherwise, your teeth are going to vibrate. I set mine at about a sparkplug gap, but considering how much even a new OEM mount would allow an engine's driver's side to "rear up", 1/8th inch of slack would be perfectly okay.
Here's an observation about solid "side mounts" which my late machine shop operative and drag racer mentioned once. It was that with the solid mounts tied into the side of the block, eventually the block would crack THERE. End of motor! Which makes the "elephant ear" mounts (i.e., "motor plate") that goes between the water pump housing and the block a lot more reliable, in the long run. On a tube frame race car, it probably acts as a structural piece of the frame, too.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Enjoy!
CBODY67
It is absolutely a significant structural aspect to the front of the car.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Even on my A body, that engine plate mount will stiffen up the front end considerably. Who knows if I'll ever install it, but I have it.
For sure. It "triangulates" the crossmember. Suddenly you have a LOT of serious structures helping each other out.
I remember when I first saw Grumpy's Vega and that engine plate. I stared at it with my mouth open for a looooong time.
I knew I was seeing the future, but didn't realize then that it would be 50 more years of "future".The Vega.
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Kind of funny that the orig small block Chevy engine mounts consisted of a "horse shoe" mount on the front of the motor that was anchored with a single mount under the crankshaft hub. Which existed well into the 1970s with the medium-duty GM trucks. Just not attached to the sides of the vehicle structure as the motor plate is.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Enjoy!
CBODY67
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