So I had an eventful day yesterday. Swapped 24 spline input shaft and reaction shaft support into the 65 trans, engine off the stand, bolt engine and trans together, learned that Chrysler torque converters only bolt to the flexplate one way and then tried to slide the engine and trans back into the car. Tried is the key word. It all came out as one unit without removing the trans crossmember. However, this new oil pan is so big that I can't get it back in because the trans now hits the tunnel and doesn't have enough angle. The logical solution is to drop the trans crossmember. But the torsion bar mount bolts to it and I'm a bit leary of unbolting them without some explanation. I do not want to break any bones or lose any fingers in the process. I know B-bodies and A-bodies are not set up like my car. Am I missing something here?
Stupid question of the day.....trans crossmember
- Thread starter Darrell
- Start date
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
You can make tools to support the torsion bars. If you don't, the body will bend. I will see if my dad will chime in.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Removing the tranny crossmember on a C-body is a PITA because when the member is removed it causes the stub frame, which is flexible, to "relax".
When you go to reinstall the member the bolt holes dont line up.
I have found the easiest war to reinstall the member is to get one bolt hole to line up on one side , then using a jack, torque the opposite side back into alignment to match up a bolt hole on the opposite side.
Then you're back in business to button everything up.
When you go to reinstall the member the bolt holes dont line up.
I have found the easiest war to reinstall the member is to get one bolt hole to line up on one side , then using a jack, torque the opposite side back into alignment to match up a bolt hole on the opposite side.
Then you're back in business to button everything up.
furyus 67
Senior Member
Worst case, you can "unload" the torsion bars before dropping them in the rear. My set up is a bit different at the crossmember as they slide in and out. I am no expert but I don't think the body will bend enough to cause any problems other than what Stan just stated. I slid one bolt into the crossmember then used ratchet straps and a hammer coax the crossmember in the rest of the way. It is a PITA!
saylor
Senior Member
try not to die
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
The ears or pieces the cross member bolts to will want to sag inward/downward the trick is to get them back up to align bolts. Easiest is to just loosen the tension with t bar adjuster bolt of course front end will need to be supported or will be resting on ground, jack stands as long as you do not need to move it.
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
Dylan, the Roos that we made are to remove the torsion bars. The guys at the transmission shop did your Fury III with two very tall screw-adjust jack stands to support it and put it back just like Commando1 suggests. It's under a lot of stress from the torsion bars but each one is rotated in opposite directions. So, they tend to counter each other. However, if the body is not supported at ends and center, they tend to sag and the crossmember and torsion bars tend to kick downward. This can be quite the party if you're in their way. As well, it can be fun to get back up if in a tight space.
To put the Sport Fury's engine and transmission back, I was going to either:
A) support the vehicle at multiple points with front end fully off the ground, clean, lubricate, and release torsion bar adjusters, remove clips at rear, remove torsion bars with tool, and remove crossmember. Then, from the top, insert drive train. That's easy for us because we pulled the grill and core support.
Or
B) install transmission with special jack and push it to rear. Install engine and pre-aligned clutch and then mate the two with crossmember in place.
Now, because we pulled grille and core support, if we got un-lazy and pulled the hood too, we could probably slide the whole kit n kaboodle right in using just the load leveler.
To put the Sport Fury's engine and transmission back, I was going to either:
A) support the vehicle at multiple points with front end fully off the ground, clean, lubricate, and release torsion bar adjusters, remove clips at rear, remove torsion bars with tool, and remove crossmember. Then, from the top, insert drive train. That's easy for us because we pulled the grill and core support.
Or
B) install transmission with special jack and push it to rear. Install engine and pre-aligned clutch and then mate the two with crossmember in place.
Now, because we pulled grille and core support, if we got un-lazy and pulled the hood too, we could probably slide the whole kit n kaboodle right in using just the load leveler.
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
Uh, "tools", not "Roos".
saylor
Senior Member
I got a torsion bar tool out in the garage somewhere if yall need to borrow it
1Fury1
Slab Side Slacker
Ditto to that. Definitely unload the torsion bars first by backing off the bolts under the lower control arms all the way. Count the threads beforehand to get them back into roughly the same position. I did this recently to pull out the tranny to fix a leaking input shaft. If you get the center section lined up pretty well from the bottom then tap equally under both sides as it goes up the holes should line up ok.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Just for clarity I'm not suggesting pull the t bars just unload them to not bend anchors and frame down.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
BTW old Mopar trick to T.C. is to spray bomb on converter bolt and flex plate hole on test fit so that you can line up bolt/line it up correctly once under the car.
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
You should be able to reach through the cover plate hole and spin the converter to line up. There are only 3 other options on rotation so it shouldn't take long. This is what I did, I thought I had it rotated correctly till I wend to couple it.
Alan
Alan
That is the first thing I do after pulling the inspection cover before the trans get pulled out of the car.
I did it when I slapped the engine and trans together before I put it in the car. Mopar is the only one that does this which is why I never suspected it. A couple turns of the converter and everything was lined up.
I can't wait to drive this beast!
I can't wait to drive this beast!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
On a lift, just a cupla minutes longer.
On the floor? Fergeddaboudit...
The Horvaths
Young man with a cowboy hat
I like that approach.
Dylan is restoring the Sport Fury. The question here is - do we want to clean and paint everything, or, just the body? Time and money will tell.
saylor
Senior Member
I saw the blue moose @ mini nats here in garland, it looked pretty good.
are yall taking that one apart? or a different one ?
- saylor
are yall taking that one apart? or a different one ?
- saylor
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