Superlite

[71Polara383]

I'm Still waiting on that yard to get time to get me the wiring out of the Monaco you sent me the lead on Wyatt

probably waiting on snow to melt a bit.

 

[polara71]

That looks like such a mess. How long did it take you to swap the harness? If you had to do it again, would you remove the dash?

I figured it could be done leaving the dash in place, but I would think pulling the entire assembly, and accessing all the wiring from the backside would be easier then pulling it apart like this.

I would do it again the same way. Thats me however, thats the way I prefer to work on these. Besides, I replaced some bezels and the radio got the upgrade so I had to pull that stuff regardless.

Ya know, I have a perfect three speaker pad in the car. I'd hate like hell for something to happen to it by pulling the whole thing.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

My Super-lite ground is in an odd space and doesn't look right. Where should it connect on a 69?


Alan

 

[carfreak6970]

Thanks for this information!! I am going to be bringing my dads polara out to Pittsburgh for the winter and make a add in harness for the superlite. the lights already in the car, I have the switch, and the two relays. I will be referring back to here for updates and questions.

 

[69_topless]

My Super-lite ground is in an odd space and doesn't look right. Where should it connect on a 69?


Alan

This is how I have the Super-lite grounding on my car. Hope it helps

 

[carfreak6970]

okay, I got the car out in pittsburgh and I think the next couple weeks I will be working on wiring up the car for the superlite. I know dave just replaced the entire harness, but I dont think it will be that intrusive to just adapt the harness that is already in the car. A lot of stand alone wires have to be created. But I believe only three need to be moved from the bulkhead connector, one removed from the high beam switch and one added onto the headlight connector. I have the terminals for these cars (I believe they are called Packard 56 connectors) and below is what I believe needs to happen:

Remove wire L3-16R from the instrument panel side of spot 27 on the bulkhead connector and move that to the instrument panel superlite switch. (Wire for the high beams)

Remove wire L5-18R from the instrument panel side of spot 27 on the bulkhead connector and move that to the vertical post of the T connector on the super light headlamp relay. (wire for dash high beam indicator)

Add a wire to the bottom of the headlight switch at the same location L2-16LGN connects to. (goes to the superlite headlamp relay)

Remove L4-16V* from the foot dimmer switch and from the instrument panel side of spot 26.

Then all the other wiring connectors in the superlite section of the wiring diagram need to be made.

I do not believe wire M1-18P needs to be moved. I believe that wire can stay where it is and wire L12-16P can be created and piggy backed off of fuse F in the fuse block. Same result should happen, superlite being feed by the dome light circuit (fuse) as the factory intended.

I attached the highlighted wiring diagram for the 70 polara.

this mark up is by using original relays for the superlite. I am not that well versed with relays, but I sure they could be substituted.

 

[71Polara383]

okay, I got the car out in pittsburgh and I think the next couple weeks I will be working on wiring up the car for the superlite. I know dave just replaced the entire harness, but I dont think it will be that intrusive to just adapt the harness that is already in the car. A lot of stand alone wires have to be created. But I believe only three need to be moved from the bulkhead connector, one removed from the high beam switch and one added onto the headlight connector. I have the terminals for these cars (I believe they are called Packard 56 connectors) and below is what I believe needs to happen:

Remove wire L3-16R from the instrument panel side of spot 27 on the bulkhead connector and move that to the instrument panel superlite switch. (Wire for the high beams)

Remove wire L5-18R from the instrument panel side of spot 27 on the bulkhead connector and move that to the vertical post of the T connector on the super light headlamp relay. (wire for dash high beam indicator)

Add a wire to the bottom of the headlight switch at the same location L2-16LGN connects to. (goes to the superlite headlamp relay)

Remove L4-16V* from the foot dimmer switch and from the instrument panel side of spot 26.

Then all the other wiring connectors in the superlite section of the wiring diagram need to be made.

I do not believe wire M1-18P needs to be moved. I believe that wire can stay where it is and wire L12-16P can be created and piggy backed off of fuse F in the fuse block. Same result should happen, superlite being feed by the dome light circuit (fuse) as the factory intended.

I attached the highlighted wiring diagram for the 70 polara.

this mark up is by using original relays for the superlite. I am not that well versed with relays, but I sure they could be substituted.

View attachment 500279

View attachment 500280

Document this fully please.

I will be documenting the full conversion with the factory stuff I have accumulated when I get around to my 70 wagon.

 

[ayilar]

@rd92west and @300rag -- here is the promised follow-up to the discussion the the three of us started in this other thread.

All the information below is courtesy of Polara Dave (@polara71 who started the present thread). Since he is currently not allowed to post here, but still is the super-helpful guy who helps C-body enthusiasts, he asked that I post here.

"All rear defogger, wagon and convertible cars equipped with the Superlite got the little black 'add on' bezel for the Superlite switch. It wasn't integrated into the panel like the other switches. At that point it was almost like an accessory switch."

So how does one add a superlite switch? Here is Dave's first-hand experience:

"first you have to separate the metal backing plate from the plastic face plate. The bezel in the middle is a non-superlite convertible bezel. The first bezel is the back of the middle bezel. Notice the indent on the left? That is where your superlite switch and light go. YOU have to drill the holes which you can easily screw up ( wrong size, little crooked).

I hope this helps @rd92west."

"The last bezel has the superlite switch mounted, you've seen this one."

My own two cents: it should be clear from the pictures posted above, as well as all the photos posted by @rd92west in the other thread, that the 'tag' describing the button is different for the superlite switch (tag/scrip integrated into the switch) than it is for the other buttons (tag/scrip taped to the wood, under but separate from the switch itself).

 

[carfreak6970]

Document this fully please.

I will be documenting the full conversion with the factory stuff I have accumulated when I get around to my 70 wagon.

I was going to document everything in this thread, trying to keep everything in one place!

@rd92west and @300rag -- here is the promised follow-up to the discussion the the three of us started in this other thread.

All the information below is courtesy of Polara Dave (@polara71 who started the present thread). Since he is currently now allowed to post here, but still is the super-helpful guy who helps C-body enthusiasts, he asked that I post here.

"All rear defogger, wagon and convertible cars equipped with the Superlite got the little black 'add on' bezel for the Superlite switch. It wasn't integrated into the panel like the other switches. At that point it was almost like an accessory switch."

So how does one add a superlite switch? Here is Dave's first-hand experience:

"first you have to separate the metal backing plate from the plastic face plate. The bezel in the middle is a non-superlite convertible bezel. The first bezel is the back of the middle bezel. Notice the indent on the left? That is where your superlite switch and light go. YOU have to drill the holes which you can easily screw up ( wrong size, little crooked).

I hope this helps @rd92west."
View attachment 500388
View attachment 500387

"The last bezel has the superlite switch mounted, you've seen this one."
View attachment 500389

My own two cents: it should be clear from the pictures posted above, as well as all the photos posted by @rd92west in the other thread, that the 'tag' describing the button is different for the superlite switch (tag/scrip integrated into the switch) than it is for the other buttons (tag/scrip taped to the wood, under but separate from the switch itself).

Thanks for that! I believe Dave said somewhere here (or in an email) that the switch for the superlite on convertible cars would go in that position.

I do have what I believe is an original wagon face place that was drilled for the superlite switch. It is where my dad got the switch and the bezel from. So I have that for a template.

 

[rd92west]

@rd92west and @300rag

"All rear defogger, wagon and convertible cars equipped with the Superlite got the little black 'add on' bezel for the Superlite switch. It wasn't integrated into the panel like the other switches. At that point it was almost like an accessory switch."

So how does one add a superlite switch? Here is Dave's first-hand experience:

"first you have to separate the metal backing plate from the plastic face plate. The bezel in the middle is a non-superlite convertible bezel. The first bezel is the back of the middle bezel. Notice the indent on the left? That is where your superlite switch and light go. YOU have to drill the holes which you can easily screw up ( wrong size, little crooked).

I hope this helps @rd92west."
View attachment 500388


My own two cents: it should be clear from the pictures posted above, as well as all the photos posted by @rd92west in the other thread, that the 'tag' describing the button is different for the superlite switch (tag/scrip integrated into the switch) than it is for the other buttons (tag/scrip taped to the wood, under but separate from the switch itself).

 

[rd92west]

"All rear defogger, wagon and convertible cars equipped with the Superlite got the little black 'add on' bezel for the Superlite switch. It wasn't integrated into the panel like the other switches. At that point it was almost like an the superlite switch (tag/scrip integrated into the switch) than it is for the other buttons (tag/scrip taped to the wood, under but separate from the switch itself).[/QUOTE]
First I'd like to thank dave for his superlite info.

My donor car does not have the add on switch but rather it mounts in the bezel like the other switches. So my switch is just the switch and the on indicator light. If I could find the little add on bezel that Dave has I could mount my switch in my convertible bezel.
Thanks Dave wherever you are.

 

[Fratzog]

Thanks Dave wherever you are.

A few of us are spending time over at the Drydock.

 

[69_topless]

This is a super lite dash bezel from the 69 convertible. Not the best picture, but it might help.

 

[carfreak6970]

alright well I got everything installed and ran into a couple issues. First the superlite wouldnt light and I dont have low beams anymore. Well I found out I had a grounding issue with the superlite so I got that to work:

but I still dont have low beams. After looking into it I found out that the headlight relay (different from the superlite relay) does not work as it should. So I am going to have to adapt newer style relays into it. I believe I have it figured out so once I get the parts in and tested I will update with what I did to get everything to work and how to wire in the newer relays.

 

[carfreak6970]

Okay, I got everything figured out and it is working! so here it goes:

To start this off I removed the radio bezel and radio. I unbolted the column a bit to make it easier to get switch panel and radio bezel out. It would also make it more comfortable to remove the front seat. I did not. I removed the ductwork going from the HVAC box to the drivers side went. I removed the drivers side sill plate and the kick panel. That is all the disassembly from the interior that is needed.

I started with removing the connector from the high beam switch. As you can see this connector got a little hot.

Side note* I replaced the connector when I put everything together but definitely something to keep an eye out for when looking over your headlight wiring. I will probably install a headlight relay harness to keep the amperage low on the interior side wiring. They are simple to install and an individual on abodiesonly makes them.

I started with removing the L4 (low beam) wire from the connector first. To remove the terminal from the plastic connector you can get a handy dandy removal tool, or just use a small flat screw driver. You place the removal tool between the metal terminal and the rectangular opening in that terminals spot and push.

This will push the retaining tab on the terminal down and you will be able to remove the wire and terminal from the backside of the connector.

You will also have to remove L3 (high beam wire) from the connector as well.

Next the fuse block will have to be removed from the back of the bulkhead connector. The fuse block is held on by two retaining tabs that are located on the screws securing the bulkhead connector. The screws do not need to be removed to release the hold on the fuse block. Move that out of the way.

Next the L4 (low beam) and L3/L5 (high beam) wires need to be removed from their respective spots (26 & 27) on the bulk head connector. To do this the firewall side connector that attaches to bulkhead connector needs to be removed and the same procedure to remove the terminals need to be followed. Depending on your removal tools length or how flexible you are you may run into trouble releasing the tab for the L4, L3/L5 wires in the bulk head connector. To gain more access the drivers side wheel well can be removed. Below is L4 L3/L5 removed.

With the switch panel removed it is easy to get to the headlight connector to remove L2 (headlight power). Again follow same procedure described above

In an earlier post I mentioned to tie into the Fuse Block “F” cavity to power the super light relay, but upon inspection there is no where to tie into it there without cutting wires. Plus I didn’t have a fuse holder terminal. So the next best thing was to get power from the Dome Lamp Wiring. This is behind the kick panel. I removed M1 (Dome Light power) from the T-connector.

To remove this male type terminal take needle nose pliers and place them as deep as possible into the connector spanning the width of the terminal. Squeeze the pliers to compress the tab and then pull the wire/terminal from the back side of the connector.

Wire disconnecting is now completed.

 

[carfreak6970]

Next the wiring harness can be made. These terminals are Packard 56 style, I got mine from the theelectricaldepot.com. I got the differing colored insulated wires from amazon.

Page 8-84 of the FSM shows a very good wiring diagram on how to make the harness:

To power the super light relay I ran a wire from the M1 (dome light power) in the T connector to the bottom of the “T” connector for the super light.

I did not remove the L5 from the printed circuit board (this wire powers your high beam indicator on the dash) Instead I cut off the terminal wires L3/L5 at the bulk head connector (This is where the one wire goes to the high beam switch [L3], and the other goes to the high beam indicator [L5]) and I installed a T connector. On the top of the T connector is the L5 wire that goes to the dash high beam indicator, and the bottom wire of the T connector is L3A that now goes from high beam switch to the super light selector switch on the dash (this is using the original L3 wire in the harness).

The last modification to the original harness is at the head light switch. A new terminal needs to be spliced on that has the L2 (headlight power) wire and the L2B (headlight relay power) wires.

I strung the wires out while laying under the dash to get the various measurement lengths then went back to the bench to cut them. I assembled and taped the harness at the relays, super lite switch, and super light indicator. I then moved the harness into place and started to splice the harness in at the points mentioned above.

Here are where the relays should mount courtesy of @polara71. They mount on the two bolts that face to the rear of the car.

The L11 (super lite power) wire goes into spot 30 of the bulkhead connector.



Ill work on the write up for using modern relays next.

 

[BlackandHuge]

Cool write up. I bet the Polara owners will thank you for writing this for decades. What did you do to wire the super light from the bulkhead to the light itself?

 

[carfreak6970]

The engine bay side was a flat terminal, similar to the one used for the pink wire that powers the super light relay. So put that terminal on one end of the wire and put it into the connector that attaches to the bulkhead. Then just string the wire along the inner fender up to the super light. Installed a female bullet connector and your good!

 

[carfreak6970]

For using modern relays you can get all the necessary components from the theelectricaldepot.com. You will need 2 of their 5 prong relay connectors, one SPST relay, one SPDT relay. and their associated terminals.

If your harness is set up for the original relays you can easily make an intermediate harness, or if your making your own you can easily set your harness up to work with these modern relays.

for the superlite relay you want to use the SPST relay and connect the following wires to the labeled terminals on the relay:
30 - Power in L12/M1
85 - Ground - just make a wire and attach to any good ground under the dash, I used the bolt securing the parking brake. the same bolt the original relays are attached too.
86 - input signal L11A
87 - output L10/L11

for the headlight relay you want to use the SPDT relay and connect the following wires to the labeled terminals on the relay:
30 - Power in L2B
85 - Ground - again just make a wire like described above
86 - Signal in L4A
87a - Normally Closed Contact L4
87 - Normally Open Contact L3/L5

 

[ayilar]

Thank you for the detailed writeup, and to @polara71 for sharing his knowledge too!

@T-revorNobody should be interested, as his ';69 wagon has the superlite option