Sway Bar Link Bushings, 1971 Fury GT

[bnz84]

Understand your priorities. I'll try to drill out 7/8 bushings to 15/16 before we go further. Thanks! Ben

I would fine with working with you on this where I would do the 3d mold/model. Just an option

 

[1970FuryConv]

I'd DIY it bro. Get a GOOD diamond dusted hole saw for the 15/16" hole, and use my small Proxxon table saw w a diamond edged blade to cut the rubber or poly into the approximate shape for the link straps. I'd then use my mini jig saw to cut the upper corners down a tad or pubic hair, leaving them a red pubic hair over sized for a snug fit, and would then use plenty soap to lube things and press them into the links, then slide the links onto the swaybar. Really not too tough a job at all. One needs good material to start with; "butyl rubber" is the stuff used by most auto makers Back Then, but polyurethanes might be better.

FWIW, I'd cut the medium down to the links FIRST, THEN punch it w the hole saw.

The retainer cavity is the same size whether the retainer hangs 7/8 or 15/16 sway bar. I'm going to first try drilling out a 7/8 bushing.

 

[1970FuryConv]

I would fine with working with you on this where I would do the 3d mold/model. Just an option

I'll let you know. The retainer cavity is the same size whether the retainer hangs 7/8 or 15/16 sway bar. I'm going to first try drilling out a 7/8 bushing.

 

[Gerald Morris]

The retainer cavity is the same size whether the retainer hangs 7/8 or 15/16 sway bar. I'm going to first try drilling out a 7/8 bushing.

HELL YEAH! If the link's the same physical size, cutting that additional 1/16" should be trivial, but DO use a GOOD hole saw for this. Butyl rubber can be cut, but with care. Use a drill press.

 

[1970FuryConv]

HELL YEAH! If the link's the same physical size, cutting that additional 1/6" should be trivial, but DO use a GOOD hole saw for this. Butyl rubber can be cut, but with care. Use a drill press.

What hole saw do you recommend?

 

[Gerald Morris]

What hole saw do you recommend?

Starrett makes good diamond hole saws. For cutting rubber, fine abrasion does better than sharp metal, which seldom remains sharp. Starrett also makes one in 15/16", which matters a great deal in your case. You'll need an arbor for it also. If I didn't say it already, then I will now: GET A DRILL PRESS TO DO THIS!

 

[1970FuryConv]

Starrett makes good diamond hole saws. For cutting rubber, fine abrasion does better than sharp metal, which seldom remains sharp. Starrett also makes one in 15/16", which matters a great deal in your case. You'll need an arbor for it also. If I didn't say it already, then I will now: GET A DRILL PRESS TO DO THIS!

I do not have a drill press, but I have a friend who will probably help by letting me use his.
I got what I needed to know. Thanks!

 

['66 Fury I]

This is off topic, but may help someone. A few decades ago, I installed a foot operated switch on my drill press at work. I found it to be great. Didn't have to fumble for the switch if (when!) a bit jammed. I wired the foot switch in series with the exsisting switch. Since then, I have the same setup on my 'press at home and have installed similar switches for a couple friends. Just my thought. Lindsay

 

[1970FuryConv]

I drilled out and installed the Moog K7061 bushings using a 15/16 twist bit.
In depth write up here
1971 Fury GT, Gold, Promo Car