The Big Bluebowski - 1971 Polara

Zezima

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Big Blue, AKA Polecat, AKA Struggle Shuttle AKA The Big Bluebowski.

1971 Dodge Polara, base, 4 door sedan, 383 2-barrel, 727 transmission, all manual drums. FQ5 Coral Turquoise, black interior, black vinyl top (long gone), black carpet, black everything; pretty much no options or as basic as you can get, I believe radio and A/C were the only non-standard things it was purchased with. It either has 122,000 miles or 220, but I'm leaning towards 120. Bought for $3,100 in driving condition January 2023. This is my first pre-80s vehicle I've owned, and my first American car (I own a Plymouth Voyager, but haven't gotten it driving yet, and not really a car), and I've been in love with all things fuselage ever since I was introduced to them, so C bodies quickly became one of my goal cars to own, and the 71 Polara in particular was among my favorite of the fuselage designs, so I spent about a month looking for a 71-72 Polara and going through options and eventually settled on a listing in Phelan, California, so drove cross country to pick it up and trailered it back - around ~3,200 miles of driving in total. Dailied it for a good while, then had a couple hiccups where it wasn't driving for some periods, but now it's back to being the daily driver, and it's the car I use for every little thing; so long as it drives, I'll be using it. It was designed to be, in Dodge's own words:

Polara meets the needs of the budget minded buyer seeking good looking, reliable transportation at a low price.

And that's exactly what it is, what it does, what I wanted, and how I use it. And I thoroughly enjoy pretty much everything about it.

Although I would be pretty interested in owning a 72 Fury, 72 Monaco, 70 Newport, or 69-70 300 some day, I've got to say I have pretty much no complaints about the Polara, and love how it drives and feels.

It was suggested I make a standalone thread for this, so figured might as well keep this as a record/blog of sorts to keep track of everything. Despite owning it for a while now, only yesterday got a chance for my first real (though still casual) photoshoot with it, so thought I'd put those pictures here and write down basically where everything's at as far as problems and goals and directions with it. It is rust-free, and the only rust that is present is surface rust, which I plan on addressing when able.

My budget will always be as low dollar as possible for the foreseeable future, since I just don't have hardly any money to begin with, so getting things done will be slow and cheap, but if it can be done with minimal resources, it will be tried.

Body/Exterior:

Problem areas:
· Lower valence needs to be hammered out, since it's pretty crunched up (pretty much all damage on the car was there when I bought it)
· Fender endcap needs fiberglass repair (planning to use a fiberglass repair kit to see how far I can get with that)
· Surface rust and general paint condition lacking any manner of clear coat, so the pigment/base coat is exposed
· Large dent/scrape in rear passenger door area
· Passenger half of the rear bumper trim is missing its argent coat
· All body molding is missing, which isn't an issue for me, but do want to do something about the metal hangers(?) that protrude from the body at some point

Good/fixed areas:
· Nothing appears to be missing other than the vinyl top, all the badging is there
· Driver tail light was busted with a hole in it, replaced it
· Passenger bumper trim was covered in some hard-stuck rust, scrubbed most of it off
· Driver rear marker light lens was broken and mostly missing; replaced

Goals:
· Get it back to all one color, either FQ5 again if possible, or the similar but distinct Q5 Bright Turquoise - undecided on roof color as of yet

Interior:

Problem areas:
· Not too many problems, but area where the driver sits has tears, but copious amounts of black duct tape makes this mostly a non issue. There is some minor cracking and tearing at the top of the backseats starting to form though.
· Dash has some cracks/rips, not too bad though.
· Black finish on some of the dash plastic is wearing and showing the silver/chrome underneath
· Glovebox closes, but not all the way flush, it hangs open about half an inch
· Driver carpet area is torn up, the rest of the carpet is pretty healthy
· Almost all of the headliner had to be taken out, there's only a couple rows left I believe

Good areas:
· Pretty much everything else, seats, doors, and carpets are pretty healthy

Goals:
· Originally I was thinking about a different carpet color when replacing it, now I'm not so sure.
· Also considered bucket or split bench seats, but also have since reconsidered
· Not sure what my headliner options would even be, and it's low priority, but I wouldn't mind an interesting pattern if that's possible

Mechanical:

Problem areas:
· Shaking: After getting it driving again a few days ago, it now shakes about 2-3x as intensely as it did before. There was always low idle vibration, but it was pretty mild. Now the shaking is getting pretty heavy by comparison, especially if you have it idled in drive with the brakes on. At higher RPMs, such as park or neutral, it smooths out more, but it's still more present than it was before.
· Braking: Also something new since getting it driving again recently, when braking it no longer brakes completely smoothly and it behaves sort of like it's going over a flat spot on a tire, but that's not the case. Just got an alignment as well, so still trying to figure that one out.
· Steering: All in all, pretty good, though the front suspension needs new bushings, and possibly ball joints, though at that point may need to look into the control arms as a whole eventually. Just wear.
· Backfiring: When engine braking or decelerating in lower gear, it'll do a snap, crackle, pop burbly sort of backfiring, but not at any other time.
· Brake lights still work, though the brake switch at the pedal is starting to go out, so will probably have to replace that soon
· Driver door handle button is getting sticky and doesn't want to pop back out once pressed

Fixed:
· Replaced radiator (original has pinhole leaks) and coolant hoses
· Replaced timing chain
· Replaced carburetor
· Replaced distributor
· Replaced coil, plugs, wires, ballast resistor, and voltage regulator
· Replaced compressor
· Replaced belts
· Replaced starter and battery cables
· Brake fluid leak at one of the drums
· A couple of the door handles and windows were stuck, now all the doors and windows operate as they should
· Replaced spark plugs

---

There's probably more in each area that I'm not thinking of right now, but this is already long enough, and covers a good area for just going off the top of my head. So with all that being said, here are some pictures. I have plenty more, but with the 10 attachment limit, I really had to pick and choose here, but I can always post more.

Sorry for the long post, just putting everything in one place took longer than I thought it would I guess.

Polara 1-min.png


Polara 2-min.png


Polara 3-min.png


Polara 4-min.png


Polara 5-min.png


Polara 6-min.png


Polara 7-min.png


Polara 8-min.png


Polara 9-min.png


Polara 10-min.png
 
The soot on your rear valance suggests it's running too rich. Dial the mixture in and your "shaking" at low rpm may go away...
 
Car looks good! You can feel the exhaust output at idle to see if it might be a burnt valve causing the shaking.

Enjoy!
CBODY67
 
Sweet ride, and i do like the pics, keep em' coming. The more i drive my 2dr Newport, the more i wish it was a 4dr ! Keep rollin' and don't give up, you have a good car to start off with, and that's a very big plus.
 
Current issue: transmission fluid leaking from driver side line connecting to the radiator. The nut would tighten to a point then go loose again. Tried re-mounting it to get a more flush fit, now it'll only spin on hand tight/hand loose. I'm guessing the threading is done for now? Any ideas for solutions besides replacing the whole line? Or is that it? Also that same line is very nearly rubbing on the belts, but not sure what could be done about that either.

Also appreciate all the responses and replies, been ironing out the kinks and a lot of progress has been made in dialing everything in, just a handful more of things to smooth out, this being one of them.

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First you should take it apart and try to see which part is stripped. It could be the nut or the fitting coming out of the radiator.
 
First you should take it apart and try to see which part is stripped. It could be the nut or the fitting coming out of the radiator.
The radiator was bought new last year, and these are the original nuts, so I'm assuming it's on the nut's end. Though not ruling out the possibility since the radiator is aluminum, but they feel good.

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Those threads are shot. Every one is rolled over. My guess is that's a threaded fitting that can be replaced. I would suspect the threads on the nut are shot too.
 
threads on the radiator look a little flat judging by your picture.
Those threads are shot. Every one is rolled over. My guess is that's a threaded fitting that can be replaced. I would suspect the threads on the nut are shot too.
Appreciate the input, not very good at these sorts of things, learning as I go.

I suppose the next question I would have is how I would go about removing the nut and fitting themselves?
 
Appreciate the input, not very good at these sorts of things, learning as I go.

I suppose the next question I would have is how I would go about removing the nut and fitting themselves?
The fitting should unscrew. A new fitting will be pipe thread on one end and inverted tubing flare on the other --- 1/8"NPT with 5/16" inverted flare. They will look like the picture.

The nut is a little more involved, so I would first inspect it. There's a couple ways to repair it. Probably the best is to cut off the existing flare, replace the nut and make another flare. That will require a tubing cutter and a flaring tool. IIRC, it's a double flare so you will want to do a double flare. If you aren't familiar with making a double flare, there are YouTube videos.

Another way is to cut the tube in half and then replace the nut. Then reconnect the lines with a 5/16" compression fitting. You'll want to make that cut somewhere in a straight section and I wouldn't put it too close to the end.

Still another way is to buy a set of new lines at someplace like Inline Tubing. That will probably be the most expensive, but if you aren't used to compression fittings and flares, that may be the way for you.

The problem you may run into is taking that fitting out of the aluminum radiator. Depending on the material and how tight it was tightened, the internal threads in the rad might be galled or otherwise screwed up. Be careful with this as repairing that aluminum radiator isn't going to be easy.

No matter what, remember not to force anything. Whoever assembled that tube into the radiator forced it on. It all should assemble easy by hand with wrenches only to tighten.

The fittings you need. A well stocked hardware store will have these, but Mancini and other vendors sell them too.

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Mixing steel parts with aluminium often doesn't end well. I think this might be one of these instances.
 
The problem you may run into is taking that fitting out of the aluminum radiator. Depending on the material and how tight it was tightened, the internal threads in the rad might be galled or otherwise screwed up. Be careful with this as repairing that aluminum radiator isn't going to be easy.
Once again, seems like you guys are on the money. Checked both sides, on both ends. It's definitely the fault of the aluminum. And that's the problem I'm running into now: how to remove the aluminum fittings without doing damage. Even just trying to use pliers to get a grip is already visibly biting into it, and I'm not sure what else to use since they're not moving.

The nuts do seem fine though from what I can tell, but the aluminum is mostly gone now. Pictures of both sides for the nuts, and then the passenger side fitting as well.

Mixing steel parts with aluminium often doesn't end well. I think this might be one of these instances.
Learning this lesson the hard way it seems. Still have the original radiator, but pinhole leaks were causing overheating, otherwise wouldn't have replaced it.

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Once again, seems like you guys are on the money. Checked both sides, on both ends. It's definitely the fault of the aluminum. And that's the problem I'm running into now: how to remove the aluminum fittings without doing damage. Even just trying to use pliers to get a grip is already visibly biting into it, and I'm not sure what else to use since they're not moving.

The nuts do seem fine though from what I can tell, but the aluminum is mostly gone now. Pictures of both sides for the nuts, and then the driver side fitting as well.


Learning this lesson the hard way it seems. Still have the original radiator, but pinhole leaks were causing overheating, otherwise wouldn't have replaced it.

View attachment 688507

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Oh crap... That fitting looks like it's welded in.

You might be able to drill that out and tap the hole 1/8" NPT, but I don't know.

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hard to tell without looking at it in person but there may be enough thickness there to rethread the fitting and use an adapter in between
 
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