the correct temperature sending unit for gage not idiot light

[The Mechanic]

Hello all,

I have a 1967 Dodge Polara with a 383, my dash has a gage to read temp and I have ordered a couple of the sending units and neither one worked. Then a friend of mine said they were for a car with a warning light not a gage. My question is how do you tell the difference in the sending unit?

Thanks The Mechanic

 

[CBODY67]

I know that an oil pressure sender for a gauge is a visible difference from a sender for a light.

In GM Parts parlance, the sender for a gauge is termed "sensor" (variable output) and for a light, it is "switch" (either on or off).

Perhaps the catalogs at www.rockauto.com can shed some light on what is different about what you need for your gauge and what the similar item for a switch looks like.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67

 

[Big_John]

Hello all,

I have a 1967 Dodge Polara with a 383, my dash has a gage to read temp and I have ordered a couple of the sending units and neither one worked. Then a friend of mine said they were for a car with a warning light not a gage. My question is how do you tell the difference in the sending unit?

Thanks The Mechanic

If the sending unit looks like this, it's for a gauge.

If it looks like this, it's for an idiot light.

Here's the thing... A sender for the light is larger in diameter and will not fit in the hole for a gauge sender. It also has 2 spade connections rather than a single screw.

 

[The Mechanic]

Well thanks for the info!! both the senders I bought must be correct, they are the smaller diameter and have the correct electrical hook up. I must have another issue than the sender. I really appreciate you guys response!! The information I receive from this site is always a help!

 

[Big_John]

Well thanks for the info!! both the senders I bought must be correct, they are the smaller diameter and have the correct electrical hook up. I must have another issue than the sender. I really appreciate you guys response!! The information I receive from this site is always a help!

Does the gas gauge work? If so, the voltage limiter is good.

Assuming the gas gauge works, take the wire to the sender and with the ignition on, ground it and the gauge should read "hot". If it doesn't, it could be the gauge or the wiring to the gauge.

Now, again with the ignition on, take a multimeter and take a reading of the disconnected wire (one probe to ground). If it reads 5 volts, the gauge is bad.

Check the wiring at the bulkhead first. I don't remember if that car has a separate voltage limiter or if it's in the gas gauge.

That should give you some starting points.

 

[The Mechanic]

Does the gas gauge work? If so, the voltage limiter is good.

Assuming the gas gauge works, take the wire to the sender and with the ignition on, ground it and the gauge should read "hot". If it doesn't, it could be the gauge or the wiring to the gauge.

Now, again with the ignition on, take a multimeter and take a reading of the disconnected wire (one probe to ground). If it reads 5 volts, the gauge is bad.

Check the wiring at the bulkhead first. I don't remember if that car has a separate voltage limiter or if it's in the gas gauge.

That should give you some starting points.

Thanks Big John, thats really good info for trouble shoot this issue. I really appreciate your input.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I have run into the same problem a while back. I believe the parts stores are giving out the wrong part number in many cases. What I recall is they have a couple of part numbers that cross over to the correct one. Although they look the same, one has a cold reading of 500 ohms and the other 250 ohms. The correct part has the 250 ohm reading at 70 degrees F. I took my ohm meter to Napa and tested both of their crossover numbers to get the right one. I ended up buying the TS17 sender that has the 250 ohm reading. I don't remember what the wrong part number was. Here is a picture of one wrong part and two correct parts. Although they look pretty much the same the wrong one on the left (500 ohm) has a shorter probe and a few more threads than the TS17. Ask for the TS17 or take your ohm meter along.

 

[The Mechanic]

I have run into the same problem a while back. I believe the parts stores are giving out the wrong part number in many cases. What I recall is they have a couple of part numbers that cross over to the correct one. Although they look the same, one has a cold reading of 500 ohms and the other 250 ohms. The correct part has the 250 ohm reading at 70 degrees F. I took my ohm meter to Napa and tested both of their crossover numbers to get the right one. I ended up buying the TS17 sender that has the 250 ohm reading. I don't remember what the wrong part number was. Here is a picture of one wrong part and two correct parts. Although they look pretty much the same the wrong one on the left (500 ohm) has a shorter probe and a few more threads than the TS17. Ask for the TS17 or take your ohm meter along.

View attachment 687491

View attachment 687492

Awsome info!! I am not crazy after all. Well maybe a little bit! I will take a meter to the store and ohm the part out before I buy it. Thanks for clearing up the " it looks the same " but its not the same problem I was having!

 

[Sixpactogo]

Awsome info!! I am not crazy after all. Well maybe a little bit! I will take a meter to the store and ohm the part out before I buy it. Thanks for clearing up the " it looks the same " but its not the same problem I was having!

If you ask for a TS17 you should get the 250 ohm sender. I don't know the application of 500 ohm one. Think maybe Ford.