The ever-persistent cam question.

[celticwarlock]

Hey, guys. At some point in the near future, I will be doing some work on the 440 in my '69 NY. Of course, I will likely be upgrading the cam and intake manifold. This car will never see the track (if I want to build a screamer, it won't weigh over 2 tons), it will spend its life under 5K rpm, and I would like to retain its low-end torque. I will not be putting headers on it (or high flow exhaust manifolds, unless I stumble across a set that's priced right), and I will be keeping the stock heads (though I expect to change the valve springs and perhaps perform other upgrades on them). I am more than willing to upgrade the carb. in an effort to get the most out of it all. I'd like to keep the heat crossover also, as I live in a cold weather climate. I would like to have 350 HP at the wheels, perhaps more if I can get it. The car already has a very good dual exhaust system on it that I see no reason to dispose of. What are your thoughts?

 

[detmatt]

The heat crossover really won't do you any good without stock manifolds with working crossover valve. Do you drive it year round?

 

[cantflip]

The heat crossover really won't do you any good without stock manifolds with working crossover valve. Do you drive it year round?

I agree with detmatt if its fair weather only, crossover wont do much. But, it wont hurt much either and might warm the intake enough to help with some of those 30-50 degree evenings that you see in the spring and fall even without a heat riser valve which is warm up use only. Can't and won't pick out a cam for someone else... but for best street power without a screwed up foul the plugs idle forget HP numbers and go for the best torques at the lower RPM where you will drive most of the time...these used to called RV cams... but I haven't seen that term in the parts catalog for years... so much of the marketing goes to the bigger market of computer equipped cars now. Finally just when you think you have it all picked out, call the tech line just to confirm your choice also have lots of software out there that can help you see what your build might be... but play conservative... it only follows your data.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

383/440 magnum restored Mopar Performance cam. Easy, good vacuum, a little over stock for about the same money and its not a lawnmower cam.

 

[celticwarlock]

The heat crossover really won't do you any good without stock manifolds with working crossover valve. Do you drive it year round?

Yes, absolutely. I have not been able to do so in years past, but that is about to change (too long of a story to get into). As long as it is dry outside, I will be taking it out regularly unless we're in a serious deep freeze.

 

[moper]

I would forget about a target number. To get 350 to the tires you need to make 425+ at the crank. That's asking a lot for factory longblock and bolt ons that don't include headers. But, any performance cam will help. Make sure the springs are replaced with it, and I'd also figure on a new timing set and fuel pump pushrod. Stay with cams between 218 & 225 degrees at .050" and you will have vacuum for your brakes and make big torque right of idle.

 

[commando1]

Why do you have to have 350 at the wheels?

 

[celticwarlock]

Why do you have to have 350 at the wheels?

It's just a target number. I recognize that it is pretty optimistic, but it does not seem entirely out of reach. I have a good idea what that would feel like in this car, and I will reach for it if I can.

 

[celticwarlock]

I would forget about a target number. To get 350 to the tires you need to make 425+ at the crank. That's asking a lot for factory longblock and bolt ons that don't include headers. But, any performance cam will help. Make sure the springs are replaced with it, and I'd also figure on a new timing set and fuel pump pushrod. Stay with cams between 218 & 225 degrees at .050" and you will have vacuum for your brakes and make big torque right of idle.

That seems like a good place to begin planning.

 

[commando1]

It's just a target number. I recognize that it is pretty optimistic, but it does not seem entirely out of reach. I have a good idea what that would feel like in this car, and I will reach for it if I can.

No, I mean why do you think 350 should be the target number?

 

[BigFury]

Call Jim Dowell at Racer Brown cams...1-410-866-7660 he keeps odd hours. Your best bet is to call after 3:00 EST. Tell him what you want to do and what your driving, he'll ask tons of questions, and he will set you up with a custom grind to your application. His cams make great power and he knows Mopar. Good Luck

 

[Landyacht]

Hey, guys. At some point in the near future, I will be doing some work on the 440 in my '69 NY. Of course, I will likely be upgrading the cam and intake manifold. This car will never see the track (if I want to build a screamer, it won't weigh over 2 tons), it will spend its life under 5K rpm, and I would like to retain its low-end torque. I will not be putting headers on it (or high flow exhaust manifolds, unless I stumble across a set that's priced right), and I will be keeping the stock heads (though I expect to change the valve springs and perhaps perform other upgrades on them). I am more than willing to upgrade the carb. in an effort to get the most out of it all. I'd like to keep the heat crossover also, as I live in a cold weather climate. I would like to have 350 HP at the wheels, perhaps more if I can get it. The car already has a very good dual exhaust system on it that I see no reason to dispose of. What are your thoughts?

If you're looking for low end power I would recommend building that 440 into a 500 stroker

 

[celticwarlock]

No, I mean why do you think 350 should be the target number?

It's just something to shoot for. I recognize that it is not all about HP when it comes to getting a car to squat & bolt, but it seems like a sensible goal. After I get as much as I can with the combination I choose, I feel I can tweak other things to make the most of the power available.