Tilt/Scope ignition switch, getting to it

DasBoot

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Gang,

I pulled the steering wheel since the PO took off the tilt/scope lever and I thought I needed to hack into the column to find the problem. Once I looked into his "spare parts" box that came with the car, I figured out how the "scope" part works.

The car had problems engaging the starter so he bought a new ignition switch for it. I was going to replace the switch since I was inside the column already but I'm stumped at the turn signal switch plate.

I've taken the 3 screws off of it (and right behind it is the ignition lock switch). However the damn plate doesn't seem to want to come out even after removing the 3 screws. I unscrewed the turn signal lever a few times (there are 2 flats machined on it to fit an adjustable wrench on it, but then I noticed there is a set of wires that are connected to it, I didn't want to twist them off unscrewing the lever). On a Duster, there is one long single screw that acts as a pivot for the lever and attaches the lever to the plastic plate. However this Chrysler is not the same.

Any thoughts/tips?

I know the little silver square piece (9 o'clock position -ish) has something to do with it, just not sure. I really don't want to break anything on this car as parts aren't easy to come by locally.
 
The ignition switch is not inside the column. It is mounted on top of the lower portion of the column. It is connected to the lock cylinder by a linkage rod. You may need to lower the column a bit for access. One reason the turn signal switch won't move may be the wiring,make sure it is free on the bottom end.
 
Figured it out (with the help of the FSM). You need to disconnect the 4 wires going to the turn signal lever from under the dash, then the harness wiring wraps around the turn signal lever as you unscrew it. The wires become a pigtail mess of sorts, but with enough slack, it will come off.

NOW I have to figure out why the steering column bearing looks like it was found at the bottom of the pacific ocean. Completely rusted and blown out. My guess is years of letting the wheel slam up, but that doesn't explain the rust (unless its the brown grease from the factory).
 
This thing is driving me crazy. I have the 70 FSM, the car is a 71 Yorker. I don't know if there was a change in steering components between the 2 years.

I cannot figure out the next steps on what to do. The FSM says to remove the pivot pins using a tool but I'm just not getting this one. Here are 4 pix that highlight where I'm at:

http://imgur.com/a/boD51

Here are the steps from the 70 FSM:

(14) PlacePivot PinRemover C-4016 over pivot pin and thread small portion of screw firmly into the pin. Hold screw from turning with one wrench, turn nut clockwise with a second wrench to withdraw pivot pin from the support (Fig. 7). Remove opposite pivot pin in same manner.
(15) U s e tilt release lever to disengage lock shoes. Remove bearing housing assembly by pulling upward to extend rack full down a n d moving housing assem- bly to the left to disengage rack from actuator. Re- move actuator rod assembly.


I need to replace that bearing with the brown grease on it and I need to replace the ignition switch due to it working when it wants to. There just aren't any other screws/bolts that I can see to get to the damn bearing housing.

Anyone have any guidance here?
Thanks
 
Ok. When you panic you lose all rationale and logic.

When I took the column apart, I found the top of the steering bearing had come off leading me to believe the bearing was toast. There is a spring that holds that bearing collar down, I just didn't realize that thats what it did. So no need to replace the bearing.

And for the switch, Mr Whale pointed out its on top of the column and my internet resources (plus the FSM) confirm this.

Sorry for freaking out guys. I'll take a couple chill pills and get the switch replaced in a few days.
 
Looks like I'm not the only one missing the gear pointer! Also my horn doesn't work and my car drives straight by the steering wheel is cocked to the left.. So I was going to try to kill 3 birds with one stone and take apart the steering wheel. Couple questions before I dive into this. Does the steering wheel have a master spline that only allows the steering wheel to be in one position? And to get the thing off, do I pry the faux wood piece off the center of the steering wheel?
 
Okay guys, for those not in the know Chrysler's tilt columns were designed by Saginaw steering gear, (GM). All GM Specialty tools work for this and the tools can be found at stores. Look under the Lisle brand and not to badly priced. Don't try to remove the pivot pins without the tool or you will break the tilt housing. Good luck.
 
@haunted,

Theres a splined shaft with one tooth shaved off so it'll only go back one way. Shouldn't have to pry anything off. The horn pad unbolts from the backside of the steering wheel.

@train,
Correct. This is all GM stuff. My square sheetmetal shield fit directly onto a GM column. The horn button retainer is a corvette part, cost you around 9 bucks minus shipping.
 
briggs&straton made these colums not g.m.. the best way to work on these is to take the whole colum out of the car. bad thing is to have it all together and find an extra piece under the floormat or under seat and my fat gut doesn't fit well under all that stuff. having it out were you can get a 360 deg. look at it helps alot. the 4 whd were the only ones that the wheel wasn't master splined. that's how you centered the wheel after alin. you took the wheel of and centered it.
 
Thanks for the heads up y'all! The last steering wheel was on a 1993 C3500 and that was kind of a b!tch. So I think I'll live with it for the mean time. I gave her a back yard alignment using the two mason string method. It actually worked quite well. Took my time and got the Toe In spot on. However the ONE step I missed was rolling the car back and forth with the steering wheel centered before doing anything DOH!

@DasBoot
Corvette part eh? So I can tell people she has Vette parts in her?
 
I think it was an old VW I was working on a while ago and it didn't have a master spline. So i was keeping my fingers crossed that more cars form this era didn't have em. Oh well, like they say.. It's never easy!!
 
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