To Mod, or Not to Mod, that is the question. What will break at 500hp?

[Rick T]

The car is a mostly original 1967 Newport, 2dr, 383 4-barrel, 727. Body is in good shape, interior is a little rough with rips in the front seat and a missing headliner. Engine runs okay, but is down on power and smokes a little on startup. It needs more power. 450-500hp at the crank would be a reasonable start.

Option 1. Rebuild the 383 with 500hp as minimum goal, bore it out, stroker kit, aluminum heads, aggressive roller-cam, gapless rings, EFI
Option 2. Mothball the 383 and install fresh 440
Option 3. Sell 383 and go with an LS or Late Gen Hemi 5.7 hemi (going with EFI and modern, 6sp automatic with OD).
Option 4. Sell the 383, throw caution to the wind, stick in an LS with a twin turbo EBAY kit or electric turbos, 4l80, and invest in a tire company
Option 5. Freshen up the 383, cleaned up cylinders, new rings, knurled pistons, hardened valve seats and keep it as original as possible. 325hp.
It doesn't feel right doing something to a survivor that can't be undone relatively easily by the next owner.
Still, 500hp seems like a good number. I have great faith in the 727 and Chrysler rear ends, but it is a big, heavy car. What is most likely to break at the drag strip?

I have a 78 New Yorker with number matching 440 & drivetrain the engine was built by the original owner. Since I didn’t know exactly what I had I pulled the engine out it should be pushing 580 to 600. I have a Holley sniper Trick flow, aluminum heads and cam Hooker super competition, headers Edelbrock intake, bored 30 over. All roller cam rockers etc. I haven’t had it on the DYNO yet horsepower I mentioned is an estimate with everything that was done to it.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

I'm surprised no one mentioned brakes. Stopping is equally important as going, and power/speed upgrades require brake upgrades. Front disk is a must, preferably with slotted/drilled rotors

Brakes are overrated.
Just kidding, C bodies have some good to decent brakes from factory. Disc brakes are nice if you drive aggressively with a lot of braking. 9" brakes on a A body and a Big block now there is a car that needs a brake upgrade now.

. I’d go for 3.73 gears and a 2800 rpm stall and have fun

That sounds miserable at 80 mph for anything more than 20 min.

 

[RemCharger]

I have a 78 New Yorker with number matching 440 & drivetrain the engine was built by the original owner. Since I didn’t know exactly what I had I pulled the engine out it should be pushing 580 to 600. I have a Holley sniper Trick flow, aluminum heads and cam Hooker super competition, headers Edelbrock intake, bored 30 over. All roller cam rockers etc. I haven’t had it on the DYNO yet horsepower I mentioned is an estimate with everything that was done to it.

View attachment 570674

View attachment 570675

Probably not unreasonable, ever plan to run it down the track?

 

[Rick T]

Probably not unreasonable, ever plan to run it down the track?View attachment 570677

WOW COOL! Yes I do maybe this summer I need to retune it and get it on the DYNO beforehand.

 

[twostick]

Brakes are overrated.
Just kidding, C bodies have some good to decent brakes from factory. Disc brakes are nice if you drive aggressively with a lot of braking. 9" brakes on a A body and a Big block now there is a car that needs a brake upgrade now.


That sounds miserable at 80 mph for anything more than 20 min.

And completely unnecessary for an engine capable of 600+ ft/lbs, 500 of which is available at the cruise RPM of even a 2.76 gear if you put the right cam in it. A 3.23 with 600 ft/lbs in front of it will feel like a 3.91 in a 440.

Kevin

 

[Project Sketchy]

Some good stuff here Rick T-- Love the 78' New Yorker engine!

Just an observation on drum brakes. After watching a number of impressive drum brake muscle cars at the drag strip and on road courses, I don't believe that drum brakes are junk. In fact, it was a bit of a shock to learn these cars weren't wearing expensive, aftermarket disk brakes kits. I suspect I was witnessing skilled, experienced drivers that had a good "feel" and ability to modulate the brake pedal. (good tires and suspension probably helped too.) No question that disc brakes are easier to work on and multi-channel ABS provides the ability to just mash the pedal to the floor and not worry about locking the brakes.

Sure, a set of drum brakes with worn, 50yr old pads, warped/grooved/out of spec drums, dirty fluid, leaking master/wheel cylinder, and 50yr old hoses isn't going to inspire much confidence, but with quality fresh pads, hoses, fluid, drums and proper adjustment, they can still slow down these cars with authority.

 

[Project Sketchy]

Knurled pistons? Does ANYBODY still do that? A band-aid way to not buy new pistons, when needed. BUT you want a round cyl bore for any high-power engine, so that means a .030" overbore and new pistons in that same size.

The first time I heard of it was my Dad, his friend, and I were at a machine shop looking at a German engine my Dad was having rebuilt. A set of the next size up pistons were staggeringly expensive and Dad's friend (bit of a hot rodder) suggested having the existing ones knurled. The idea was to get the piston to fit tightly enough in the bore to not slap around and, as an added benefit the knurling was supposed to help with oil flow, keeping the cylinder walls lubricated. The machinist seemed to think it was a good idea and the resulting engine ran perfect.
Lack of funds can lead to some innovative solutions I wouldn't be surprised if it some of the older shops can't still do it on request.

 

[Dads300]

I would build the engine that’s in it. It is a known good core, and you won’t have to hunt down bracketry for an RB or whatever. In my view, numbers matching means nothing to most of these cars, even rare ones. Chryco did good in spelling out exactly what a vehicle is/was through the vin and fender tags, unlike GM.
Travis..

 

[Lincsmoparmike]

Well you could go for a stroker - 440source is where I would start - in fact I did - but theyre 383 to 440 kit is only available for a .030 overbore ( I think) .According to our supplier my block would not bore out that far (It was standard). 440 source were mystified by this but hey ho.
In the UK we have very few machine shops that can handle a V8 let alone doing something funky like a stroker.
I used a supplier in the UK (Real Steel) And they said they could do better than 440 sources offering.
First crank was an eagle crank that eagle assured was for a 383 block. Set it in the block and the crank webs were about 1" in diameter too big and it would not turn. Back it went - turned out it was for a 360 Block. Second crank was from scat - this was OK until the scat forged rods were fitted - you guessed it the crank would not turn again - this time the rod bolts were fouling the cylinder bases - both sides each journal the whole block has been collected use a die grinder to grind lumps off the lower cylinder bores - tempted to do it myself - then thought again and made the call. Still waiting for it to come back. This whole thing started just about two years ago!

Horse power is an illusion - just a calculation (Torque x Revs) go for torque everytime - that's what you need - its what gets you away from the lights. I got Comp cams to recommend a cam based on the stroke (and whether you want it to idle) and to go with that you just need to select the correct torque converter to go with it.

So I was just wanting a stout motor to heave along the Monaco (Two Door Hardtop) And I will end up (eventually) with forged crank, forged rods, forged pistons, edelbrock heads, Comp cams camshaft, hydraulic lifters, roller tipped rockers and about 438 Cubic inch. I was thinking of EFI - but currently thinking just going with a carb - simple - when EFI breaks its not simple to fix.
As I said simpler to go with 440 source!

 

[Project Sketchy]

I'm happy to report I'm now the proud owner of a 440 Block. I found a local fellow who was willing to part with one, and in the process got to meet a really nice and very knowledgeable Mopar enthusiast!

Next step is get it to the machine shop for cleaning/magna flux, measuring, etc....

With Christmas fast approaching, I find visions of forged pistons, aluminum heads, and ARP bolts dancing in my head