Mike66Chryslers
Senior Member
Quite the contrary; When I saw your sketches, I surmised that you had a background that involved drafting.
Torsion Bar Removal Tool--Make it yourself
- Thread starter Trace 300 Hurst
- Start date
Thanks for that. As GJS mentioned, I hated giving up my drafting table when I became an engineer....so I KEPT IT to do my own drafting, unlike other young engineers who thought that was beneath them now, and against company pressure to "let the cheaper paid draftsmen do that time consuming work". Nope....ideas went from my head to my drafting paper without the time spent with explaining, correcting, reviewing, marking up, revising....wasting time.
And lo-and-behold....now engineers do their own AutoCad work!
BillGrissom
Active Member
Yes, the factory manual shows a custom tool for removal, but not needed (as are most special tools in the manual). I have removed many T-bars in my A & C body Mopars. I just pry-bar the Lower Control Arm backwards from the K-frame and the T-bar end pushes out the hex anchor (assuming you removed the rear C-clip retainer). Then, rubber mallet the LCA forward while holding the T-bar with your hand and it should pop out of the front hex. Usually, you don't even need to hold it since the rear hex will have cleared and rotated so it can't go back in at the rear. That avoids marr'ing the T-bar surface. If you grab it w/ vise-grips or similar, you may permanently damage it so it will later crack. I have always done this while restoring suspension, so need the LCA out anyway to change its bushing and the drag-strut bushings (at radiator support).
BTW, the grease in the hex at the rear is not to allow motion, but simply to avoid corrosion. The earliest cars w/ T-bar design didn't have grease or the rubber boot and salt slush in the rusty north soon packed in there. Within a few years, some rusted so bad the rear support rotated and the car dropped down to the bump stops. The redesign let it last thru the 3 yr warranty. Also, good to grease the front hex so it doesn't rust in place.
BTW, the grease in the hex at the rear is not to allow motion, but simply to avoid corrosion. The earliest cars w/ T-bar design didn't have grease or the rubber boot and salt slush in the rusty north soon packed in there. Within a few years, some rusted so bad the rear support rotated and the car dropped down to the bump stops. The redesign let it last thru the 3 yr warranty. Also, good to grease the front hex so it doesn't rust in place.
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Yeah, I'd generally agree with this method, with two reservations.
First, this works if you want to remove the LCA and its parts (strut, etc). If a person just wants to replace T-bars without taking the front end apart, a tool will probably be necessary.
Second, if the bar has been unmoved since it left the factory 50 years ago, the pry method might not work and again, you'd need a tool. I've easily removed bars--by hand--that I had removed previously and were nicely greased, etc.
But anyway, good on ya for posting your "pry" method.
CanCritter
Senior Member
video of this would be nice for us first timers...have to break down my front end for bushings ect and some of this stuff is new to me and a few others l imagine
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
I made my T-bar tool out of oak blocks w square notches for the torsion bar. Used big C-clamps to hold them fast to the bar, and a 5# sledge hammer to tap the blocks back. Had to warm up the passenger side torsion bar retainer w a propane torch to get the 50 yr old grease to flow, then with a prayer to St. Joseph and a few smart WHACKS, the bar came free. Oak is good wood.
Did we talk about wood blocks earlier in this thread? I can totally envision your Old Oak Rig. Good on ya.
And probably a good idea to bring Saint Joe in for consultation at the appropriate time.
And probably a good idea to bring Saint Joe in for consultation at the appropriate time.
Frank Odenthal
Member
I found this picture in a Hot Rod Magazin article and fabricated a copy of it. Same principle, works great without damaging T-bar surface.
Wow! Crude but VERY effective. Thanks for that great pic.
That single clamp at the rear keeps the whole thing stabilized.
That single clamp at the rear keeps the whole thing stabilized.
That's a SERIOUS tool!
That is SWEET! Crude and effective...perfect for an old Mopar!
Love it.
Love it.
SIPLOWGUY
Active Member
Very well thought out and designed!
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Geeez I just wrapped the bar with aluminum sheet stock and clamped the vice grip very tight and a few tappy tap's, out it goes. 'course my bars weren't 50 years frozen.
