Torsion Bar Removel?

MJFUR

Active Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2021
Messages
266
Reaction score
219
Location
Texas
69 Chrysler 300. Trying to remove my torsion bars to install TTI headers.

Service Manual says to Remove Upper Control Arm Rebound Bumper. Unfortunately the stud in it just spins with nut. MUST it come out to allow more droop? If so, it will need cut out.
I have the lower anchor adjusting bolt all the way loose. There is no play in the torsion bar. Thx

20230414_161918.jpg


20230414_161928.jpg
 
I would expect that if your torsion bar adjuster is all the way out (meaning no more tension on the adjusting cam) and per your pictures, the bumper isn’t sitting on the stop, removing the bumper won’t really matter. If you need to back off the adjuster more and it is resting on the stop, it should come off.
 
69 Chrysler 300. Trying to remove my torsion bars to install TTI headers.

Service Manual says to Remove Upper Control Arm Rebound Bumper. Unfortunately the stud in it just spins with nut. MUST it come out to allow more droop? If so, it will need cut out.
I have the lower anchor adjusting bolt all the way loose. There is no play in the torsion bar. Thx

View attachment 591471

View attachment 591472
You will also need to disconnect the front shocks and unhook the lower ball joint, this will allow the LCA to drop a little more and further remove tension.

Dave
 
I would expect that if your torsion bar adjuster is all the way out (meaning no more tension on the adjusting cam) and per your pictures, the bumper isn’t sitting on the stop, removing the bumper won’t really matter. If you need to back off the adjuster more and it is resting on the stop, it should come off.
Not seen in my photo is a jack under the brake drum to raise the suspension for a better photo of the rubber bumper. When fully down the rubber bumper is compressed, but maybe not enough???
 
Last edited:
You will also need to disconnect the front shocks and unhook the lower ball joint, this will allow the LCA to drop a little more and further remove tension.

Dave
The FSM doesn't mention removing those items. Did they forget? They make it sound Easy Peezy Lemon Squeezy.

20230414_185554.jpg


20230414_185603.jpg
 
FWIW I found no difficulty in removing a 1964 Imperial torsion bar after disconnecting the lower shock mount and turning the torsion bar bolt counter clockwise. Just remember, torsion bars are not interchangeable left/right, so put a dab of paint with either L or R on one to prevent mixing them up.
 
69 Chrysler 300. Trying to remove my torsion bars to install TTI headers.

Service Manual says to Remove Upper Control Arm Rebound Bumper. Unfortunately the stud in it just spins with nut. MUST it come out to allow more droop? If so, it will need cut out.
I have the lower anchor adjusting bolt all the way loose. There is no play in the torsion bar. Thx

View attachment 591471

View attachment 591472
If the torsion bar adjuster bolt feels loose in it's fitting, there is no tension on the torsion bar from the torsion bar adjuster.
However, there can be tension on the torsion bar when the lower control arm position is too high.

I recently removed the torsion bars on my 1971 Plymouth Fury. Generally, I think the factory shop manual is right. But in your car, since the bumper is not hitting the subframe, something is keeping the suspension in too high a position. My guess is that your shock absorbers are fully extended and not allowing the suspension to drop any further. The 1st thing I would do is remove the lower shock mount bolt and nut and see if the upper control arm bumper drops on to the subframe.

If you have to remove the upper control arm bumper, you could try grabbing the upper control arm bumper with cloth over a pair of vise grips. I sprayed generous amounts of penetrating oil on the locknut. Then I removed the locknut with 9/16 socket and a 3/8 breaker bar. If the locknut doesn't move, you'll break the bumper off of the stud, so be careful about using too much torque.

Other than that, I like Dave's suggestion. Remove the lower bolt for the shock absorber, remove the brake rotor, and remove the 2 bolts that fasten the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle.

I have also seen torsion bars stick in the lower control arm even though there is no tension. If that happens, you can remove the nut at the front of the lower control arm pivot pin and tap the lower control arm and torsion bar towards the rear of the vehicle as an assembly. Then you can tap the lower control arm forward while using your torsion bar holding fixture to hold the torsion bar steady. Usually the lower control arm will pop right off the torsion bar.
 
Agreed on what everyone else is saying. Even with my lower control arm hanging loosely with the ball joint and shock absorber disconnected, the bar still was being a little fussy about coming out. I suspect after 50 years, they are kinda happy where they are. Rags above is correct; the torsion bar removal tool is the key.
I used this 5 years ago on my A body Dart, and just last last Sunday on my 1969 Fury. Here is the one I have:

Mancini Racing Torsion Bar Remover/Installer
 
Back
Top