Get those hardwood blocks, ice and 2 gallon bucket, towel, the torch, 10# hammer and big C-clamps. Even w/o any Xtra metal stuck in the socket, those bars are apt to stick pretty hard. A pneumatic hammer applied to the hardwood clamp MIGHT achieve the desired loosening by quantum effect. Realize that quantized hammering IS a VALID WORKING CONCEPT when dealing with suspension components on your 55 yr old ride. Just as the proverbial straw breaks the camel's back, other quantized phenomena such as hammering or lbs force applied to bushings have relevance. At first, you won't see ANY motion of the torsion bar, then, you MIGHT see some motion so slight as to dismiss it as wishful thinking, THEN....WHACK!!! out it slides! up to the clamped on hardwood blocks hitting the front of the crossmember. Even with a bit of metal between the bar and socket surface at the end, your bar does NOT appear to be that badly jammed in by your earlier heroic, though crude efforts. Attend to the magnified pic I made of your better one....
View attachment 363543View attachment 363543
I examined this at 400% magnification, and see little DEEP damage that would hinder the bar's motion. Dremels have become popular enough, to be sure, but regardless of WHAT (within the limits of "common sense") you use to clean out the interface between the hex socket and bar, once you clear the few thousandths of an inch previously afflicted by youthful enthusiasm, the rest of that interface is being held in place by aged grease and static friction between two hard ferrous surfaces. Have you removed the front balloon seals from the bars? You SHOULD be able to clean out some of the old grease as far as you can reach in from the front around the bar with a thin screw driver or other pic, then use a penetrant/solvent such as kerosene, WD-40, LPS-1 or PB Blaster in liberal quantity. There well MAY be DIRT mixed in with the old grease, causing friction. THAT will be more apt to stop that bar from moving that what you and your brother did.
Wash things out from the front, then, after the excess penetrant has been blown or vacuumed away, fire up your torch, heat the socket mildly as aforementioned, and carefully commence hammering your hardwood block torsion bar tool.
I could probably do this job in 15 minutes if I were there, but I'm not and the IMPROBABLE merits consideration.
Best of Luck.
BY ALL MEANS KEEP THE REST OF THE BAR STRAIGHT WHEN YOU COMMENCE WORK!
