1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
I think you can just put the axle assembly back together. Hope you didn't take the center section apart.
Transmission
- Thread starter jmustian
- Start date
No
I didnt touch the lock up since its all perfect.
1970FuryConv
Old Man with a Hat
By center section, I meant the whole piece pictured below. Sure grip is a part of it. Disregard if your rear is not 8.75"
Yep. Thats mine. Sure grip? Lock up? Called several names
It was leaking from selector shaft seal so thats probably why it was full of clean fluid when i got it. Im sure it was run low of fluid which is what trashed the planetary.
Anyone on here good with differentials. My 69 300, had a rear noise once I cleaned it and reinstalled it.
I hopefully determined it just needed a new crush sleeve since I had it apart. All bearings look perfect a rotate real smooth. According to FSM I should torque diff nut to at least 175 while checking rotation torque.
I have tightened to 190 and still have slack in pinion seating. Of course that leaves rotational torque at 0. The FSM does say id I need to put carrier in first and or install assembly in axle first. Little confused.
Sorry, FSM DOES NOT say if I need to put it all together first
rags
Senior Member
don't worry about it. tighten it 'till there's no more slack then tighten it more for the preload (rotational torque). the spec. for the preload might be with no pinion seal installed. if that's the case then your crushing the sleeve to attain the correct preload then taking it back apart again to install the seal, then reassembling and retightening it. the trick is to set the preload with a used nut then doing the final assembly with a new lock nut so that you'll know it will stay tight. not easy to get it exactly right by the book. i found it was easier to throw the book away and do it by feel. in tightening this you're pulling the inner pinion bearing up against it's race. you can tighten it from here to kingdom come and never pull the pinion any further forward so this doesn't affect the gear pattern it only sets the preload on the pinion bearings. how would you tighten a front spindle nut? same goal.
I went back to basics and it appears according to FSM, the large washer above the big pinion bearing is missing. Probably another reason they got rid of car.
My problem was that over 200 lbs I still had slop in the pinion. I could grab the u joint flange and pull it back and forth. I took it back apart and it had never touched the crush sleeve.
rags
Senior Member
ouch. not good. the splines would have to be twisted. when you pulled the nut back off, was the pinion topped out in the yoke? i honestly don't know how much torque it takes to crush a sleeve. it's not something we measure. all that matters is the preload torque. it takes a lot to crush a sleeve. at work i made a handle about 3 ft long that bolts to yokes to hold them while tightening. on composite rears, the handle spins up against the bottom of the vehicle then it's pull for all i'm worth on a breaker bar. was there no slack with the old sleeve? can you get the slack out with old sleeve installed?
It was making noise and was sloppy so I couldn't find any bearing problem so I ordered a new sleeve. Checking the FSM, it shows shims between the sleeve and the big bearing which there was none. I used the air gun and pulled it up to about 250+ and still sloppy. I think someone was in there before and left shims out. I just ordered a shim kit and hope that's it. I couldn't pull up to the sleeve and the new sleeve looks at least 3/16 longer than old one.
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