unsticking 383...hopefully

CBrown

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Hi, new member here. Just recently picked up a '68 Polara. It's been sitting for about 15 years, so the engine is stuck. I put a bunch of PB blaster in the plug holes and for the past couple days, I've tried the 'ol turn it at the crank bolt trick, but I didn't pull too hard cause I'm afraid to break the bolt. It doesn't seem like it wants to budge at all.

Figured I'd get underneath and try to turn the flexplate (i think they have a tool for that?). Any other suggestions? By the way, where is the proper place to jack and place jack stands on this old gal.

I'm still kind of noob when it comes to working on vehicles, but I've gained a lot of experience along the way. Thanks for the help!
 
I've heard using coca cola works .. pour it in and let it set then work it then let is set then work it
 
Welcome,,i'm a newbe myself but have been a mopar nut all my life,,now back to the locked motor,A car can sit for years and not have a locked up motor,it will usually turn over by hand,did the motor sit out in the weather so water could get inside,,I picked up a 67 baracuda out of a field that sat without a hood and or heads,full of cylender rust and with cleaning and a breaker bar jerking back and forth it broke free,,if it's that frozen I would recomend pulling the heads for further inspection,,if the cylenders are clean then it's time to inspect the berrings as I had a motor that had two rod berrings side by side that melted and locked the motor up so tight that I had to loosen all the caps and rod caps to get it to spin,,do you know why it was parked in the first place,,I would say to eliminate the trans as a possible problem but if you can't turn the motor you can't remove the flex plate bolts ,,,
 
Welcome aboard!

:sFl_america2:

Good luck on getting that motor to spin. It might have to soak for a couple of days. I've had good luck using Marvel Mystery Oil or txsm fluid in the cylinders.
 
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The crank bolt is pretty big. I would doubt if it would break.

I'd fill the cylinders with ATF or kerosene and let it sit for a few days and then try a breaker bar on it. If you get it to move a little, more ATF in the cylinders and let it sit again. Rinse, lather, repeat.

Of course, most Mopar engines I've come across that won't turn over usually have some sort of mechanical failure (like a broken rod) keeping the crank from turning. Just sayin....
 
Thanks for the quick replies guys! According to the seller (original owner), the car was driven until '96 when he parked it because of health troubles. It was sitting outside but the hood was down and the air cleaner was on. I'll try soaking it with some ATF and see if I can get her spinnin' before breaking it down to the heads. Hopefully, it's just this Texas humidity that got her locked up.

The Mopar crowd seems like a really nice crowd to be around. I'm glad I could finally join the ranks! I look forward to gaining more insight from you all down the road. I'll keep ya'll posted on the engine.
 
The crank bolt is pretty big. I would doubt if it would break.

I'd fill the cylinders with ATF or kerosene and let it sit for a few days and then try a breaker bar on it. If you get it to move a little, more ATF in the cylinders and let it sit again. Rinse, lather, repeat..
Making it a 50/50 mix with acetone doubles the penetration power.
 
I agree with Stan.
welcome to the site from the Motor City! Lets see some pics of the Polara.
 
Here's a quick pic. Can anybody tell me where the proper place is for putting jack stands under this thing?

:sSig_thanks:

dorris.jpg
 
the frame rails and the rear axle tubes should be fine depending on what you are doing

......
 
hey, good luck with that, she'll probably break free after soaking. I'm new here too and i may have a similar situation. 65 polara 383 sitting in my garage for years. I drove it in there and parked it. took the gas tank out cause it had pinhole leaks. I had the radiator re-cored and applied sealer to the gas tank. now it still sits in the garage, gas tank still out, radiator still out. I'v been seriously thinking i need to spend some time and a few bucks and get this thing running. i havn't tried to turn it over, i'm wondering if its siezed up. so is the low block 383 worth building? are there performance parts around for it? any suggestions, I just want to roast the tires now and then and zip down the interstate a lil bit...not trying to win any races
 
so is the low block 383 worth building? are there performance parts around for it?[/QUOTE]
They had better be! LOL, 'cause I have one and I plan on building it. Seriously, yeah the 383 is an excellent engine. They like to rev and have a good rod ratio. You can get all sorts of aftermarket parts for them. You can also get "stroker kits" to take them out to 431 cubes and even larger I think.:)
 
so is the low block 383 worth building? are there performance parts around for it?
They had better be! LOL, 'cause I have one and I plan on building it. Seriously, yeah the 383 is an excellent engine. They like to rev and have a good rod ratio. You can get all sorts of aftermarket parts for them. You can also get "stroker kits" to take them out to 431 cubes and even larger I think.:)
If the last sentence is your ultimate goal, it will be cheaper to start fresh and scrap the 383.
Looking at your car, why do you want an engine that's 4X the value of the car?
Put the money into the car.
With a stuck 383, buy a 15 hundred dollar rebuilt BB.
 
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If the last sentence is your ultimate goal, it will be cheaper to start fresh and scrap the 383.
Looking at your car, why do you want an engine that's 4X the value of the car?
Put the money into the car.
With a stuck 383, buy a 15 hundred dollar rebuilt BB.

Yeah, I've kind of been left scratching my head quite a few times as to why people would stroke a smaller engine when a larger factory displacement was readily available. Stealth purposes maybe?
I can't think of any Mopars off hand where a 383 will fit, but a 440 would require major mods to the engine bay.:icon_scratch:
:)
 
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I was totally shocked when I found out a Hemi into C-bodies required major mods. Most of my life I assumed it would be a drop-in.

< Sent from my tablet >
 
Another question for you gentlemen. I hooked up a battery just for kicks to see what would happen. I got a nice grinding sound from the starter. Is that the sound it would typically make with a stuck engine or could the starter possibly be jammed and preventing the flexplate from turning in the first place?
Thanks!
 
Front : On the frame in the area inboard at the rear of the front fender (by pentastar emblem). At the rear: the rearend housing just inboard of the springs .Should be good and solid at these points.
 
Sounds like the teeth are gone on the starter drive or they are not engaging due to the engine being stuck . I'd load the PB Blaster right to the cylinders for a couple of days and try rotating the crank at the balancer.
 
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