Ut-oh need some help

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
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72 360 LA small block. Was moving (sliding it) across the shop floor to mount on the engine stand. And I chipped the edge of the rear maing bearing cap. This is to be a street/strip engine with about 375 hp. Can I leave it like this or is there a way to repair this cap

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I don't know enough about small blocks to to say wether or not that would cause a leak but I would think that's the only problem it might cause. I'd have been upset with myself...
 
It's cast iron.

I think you will be OK. That holds the seal to the oil pan and that's about it. You could build it back up with epoxy or lab metal. That would keep the seal a little more stable.

Another option is having building it back up with braze or even weld. They gotta know what they are doing to weld it, but brazing it is something you could try.

If you replaced the bearing cap, you will need to have it align honed.
 
Yea I don't want to align bore it. I choose this block cause the 72 is supposed to be strong. I was thinking JB Weld. I can't find the missing piece. I also have temporarily misplaced the stock oil pan to test fit it.
 
I think I swept it away before I realized it was broke. I can make one, but it would be nice to find the piece. Do you think JB Weld will hold
 
I'd just build it up with braze and not bother with making a piece.
 
Big John should I remove the cap from the block to do that or would it be best to leave it torqued down ?
 
You could even use a piece of wire, coat hanger, and Braze it in place. I don't have the greatest luck building up with Braze, but I am a beginner at best, i have had decent success brazing the oil pan on my big truck.
 
I'd take it off. Maybe even get it hot in the oven before you braze.

Just don't quench it to cool it. Let it cool slowly.
 
You could even use a piece of wire, coat hanger, and Braze it in place. I don't have the greatest luck building up with Braze, but I am a beginner at best, i have had decent success brazing the oil pan on my big truck.
Why would you brazen and not weld an oil pan?
 
I've used some stuff made by Norton that body shop guys use for body panels. They say it's stronger than welding and I believe them. I've done some amazing things with it. Comes in different set up times. To me it makes J B weld look like silly putty! Ask any good body shop and they'll tell you. I had a body shop get me some, it's not cheap but boy does it work!
 
I have this little thing that bugs me and it is for all these responses to any post about a metal whatever being broken and substituting some miracle dough.
All these putties, epoxies, liquid steels, etc, merely fill in the gap of the missing material and have a fairly poor BOND to the adjacent metal. In terms of Metalurgy, it provides high compressive strength and poor shear strength. WELDING fuses the filled area to the adjacent metal so that is is one piece again.
 
Stan I agree with you. I have not had much luck with JB Weld. However I know people that I respect & know what they are doing who swear by it.
 
Two me there are only two choices,

1. Use as-is (if it can and not leak)
2. Replace part and machine (if my engine looked like that it would be going to the machine shop anyway)


Alan
 
Stan I agree with you. I have not had much luck with JB Weld. However I know people that I respect & know what they are doing who swear by it.
They fill a void with a very high strength plastic and that's it.
No metal can be soft as dough at room temperature. If so, NASA would like to hear from you.
 
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