Ut-oh need some help

[C Body Bob]

Two me there are only two choices,

1. Use as-is (if it can and not leak)
2. Replace part and machine (if my engine looked like that it would be going to the machine shop anyway)


Alan

I just dug it out of the barn. It's going to the machine shop. I have to do the race prep. Don't want to pay the shop for something I can do

 

[78Brougham]

The Product I was referring to is a 2 part "epoxy" or liquid of some sorts... Norton Urethane Structural Adhesive 636425-04615 this one sets up in 12 minutes to be able to begin sanding. I have never had any luck with that putty JB Weld. This stuff is very expensive it cost me about 45 bucks plus another 50 for the two piston mixing tool that looks like a fancy caulking gun. Most body shops everywhere use this stuff at some point or another. They should be able to get it for you or maybe go online.

 

[jake]

No jb weld!!!!!

 

[Big_John]

I have this little thing that bugs me and it is for all these responses to any post about a metal whatever being broken and substituting some miracle dough.
All these putties, epoxies, liquid steels, etc, merely fill in the gap of the missing material and have a fairly poor BOND to the adjacent metal. In terms of Metalurgy, it provides high compressive strength and poor shear strength. WELDING fuses the filled area to the adjacent metal so that is is one piece again.

That's very true. In this case you are just filling a gap, so a really good epoxy may work. The force (if any) would be from the rubber gasket expanding when the oil pan is tightened. I haven't done a small block Mopar in many years, so I don't know if everyone still uses that rubber gasket or they just fill up the groove with RTV.

(Full disclosure: I'm not a welder) Welding cast iron is a bit of an art though. You have to use a high nickel content rod and the cast iron has to be close to your welding temperature before you strike the arc. Brazing is a pretty good alternative and is usually the way that cast iron is repaired. It is my understanding that a good braze joint on cast iron is as strong or stronger than the surrounding metal.

 

[commando1]

No jb weld!!!!!

Lmao.

 

[C Body Bob]

If I get time to look for the oil pan I will bolt it on & see how it affects the gasket.

 

[Tink]

They fill a void with a very high strength plastic and that's it.
No metal can be soft as dough at room temperature. If so, NASA would like to hear from you.

Lead comes very close.

 

[C Body Bob]

What about soilder. I can do that

 

[commando1]

Lead comes very close.

But it won't be as hard as steel.
I took Chem101 and 102. Lmao.

 

[C Body Bob]

UT-OH continued

Well I found the 360 pan. Don't worry I have a blast cabinet. I'll clean it up good. Does look like I'll be brazing

 

[moper]

The cap just reinforces the seal. If it was me I'd use weatherstrip adhesive on the rubber seal to the pan, and then just bolt the pan on. You don;t need to build that area back up. If you do want to, use JB Weld. Heating a cap enough to weld or braze it will cause it to distort beyond where it will return back to the original shape. So you'll have to have it align honed. JB Weld does not combine on a molecular level, but it does go into the surface features of the metal (way smaller than anything you can see) and grabs hold tight. In this application it will do fine. Lay it on it's back on a peice of wax paper and build the lip back up. Shape it with a file after it cures.

 

[73Coupe]

Get the block align honed either way. Especially if one of the main caps was banged with a force to chip it, and if been sitting with the crank case open like this. You never know who's done what to it over the years. Spend the extra 80 bucks and align hone it along with the rest of the machine work you'll be doing.