Variety of Questions

mwelther

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Hello -- you have helped me much in the past on issues. My name is Mike and I have a 68 Fury Convertible....got a few questions that I cant answer....
1) I fixed convertible top issue (thanks to this forum) and when refilling the reservoir, noticed the rubber grommets holding reservoir on were shot --- for the time being, I bolted it back on -- any reason the rubber grommets should be used instead of what I did (I am sure there is a good reason)
2) the guy who had car before me had a split in one of the hydraulic top lines and fixed it by putting a larger piece of tubing over as a coupler and clamping it. It failed. do I need to get the actual full set up, or could I get new tubing and have someone reattached the fitting on the end of the new tubing? reason I ask is the new tubing with fittings is $110 and just getting the tubing at hardware store and reusing the fittings would be about $10

3) Radiator has a crack along top chamber and took it to a vintage radiator repair place and it has failed 2 times since I got it back... tried to get new radiator from Rock Auto and when it arrived it was too big. Guy at Rock auto said that the vendor mis represented the radiator as a fit for a 68 Fury with 318 and that he does not have proper one to fit -- anyone know where I could get a new radiator that properly fits the 68 fury with 318 and has ports for AT

4) convertible top has top in good shape but it has ripped away from the back pillars where it hooks into the flank (about 4-5 inches worth) -- and when top is down, it looks like there is no way it could stay connected without pulling away -- what am I missing.

Thanks for any help you can give me! as always input is much appreciated! photo-1.jpg

photo-1.jpg
 
I can't help you any, but I love the picture with the kids in the back.
 
I agree Mike. It's a great looking car. I can't say for sure but somebody might make a kit for replacing all the lines for your top? What size is your radiator?
 
This is a Champion (EC1635) that I used in my 318 Polara, I know not for eveybody but it does the job.

Alan


2014-01-20_004.jpg
 
I have a '68 B-body 26" 318, auto with a.c. Radiator that appears to be in decent condition that I'd sell cheap. I'm sure it would need to be boiled and checked for leaks.
 
Variety of Questions

Hello -- you have helped me much in the past on issues. My name is Mike and I have a 68 Fury Convertible....got a few questions that I cant answer....
1) I fixed convertible top issue (thanks to this forum) and when refilling the reservoir, noticed the rubber grommets holding reservoir on were shot --- for the time being, I bolted it back on -- any reason the rubber grommets should be used instead of what I did (I am sure there is a good reason)

Mike,
The rubber grommets holding in the pump are used to help eliminate the vibration of the pump.
as far as the other questions go I assume that you can use other hydraulic lines as long as they are rated for the pressure that your pump puts out. Check out this website as they have a bevy of information on convertible tops and alike.


http://topsdown.com/Convertible+Top+Pump,+cylinder+and+hose+installation+instructions-sp6.html
 
I have a '68 B-body 26" 318, auto with a.c. Radiator that appears to be in decent condition that I'd sell cheap. I'm sure it would need to be boiled and checked for leaks.

thanks for the email -- I have to remeasure but recall it being close to 20" wide...mine was supposedly in good shape, but the top seam keeps leaking -- it was recored. may go with the new one that MrMoparCHP shows here as the one in the picture next to it looks like mine.

thanks to all for the help!
 
What happens with the top of the radiator tanks is that over the years all that heating and cooling causes the copper/brass to turn brittle. Once it does that it is very difficult to get them to seal and work properly.

If your not worried about 100% original appearance...then go with the Champion radiator....you won't be disappointed. Just paint it flat black and very few people will even notice it. ;)
 
Most larger towns have at least one shop that specializes in making hydraulic lines. They can make exact duplicates of your lines, if you take them to their shop. Most can do them while you wait. It's worth it to do it right.
 
1) any reason the rubber grommets should be used instead of what I did ......... vibration ......
2) split in one of the hydraulic top lines ....... replace the lines. I don't think the fittings are reusable. You may run a wanted ad here for a used set. Or ... these folks have what you need .... http://www.hydroe.com/
4) convertible top has top in good shape but it has ripped away from the back pillars where it hooks into the flank (about 4-5 inches worth) -- and when top is down, it looks like there is no way it could stay connected without pulling away --
New top ....... use these folks ...... http://www.ebay.com/itm/PLYMOUTH-FU...ry&hash=item462802988c&vxp=mtr#ht_2437wt_1006

hyd lines ......http://www.ebay.com/itm/CONVERTIBLE-POWER-TOP-HYDRAULIC-FLUID-HOSE-LINES-FITTINGS-PAIR-PLASTIC-HOSES-/370880177383?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1968%7CModel%3AFury&hash=item565a2e64e7&vxp=mtr#ht_931wt_664

top motor mounts ...... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1971-C...ies&hash=item2ec2a0840c&vxp=mtr#ht_1364wt_664
QUOTE]
 
This is a Champion (EC1635) that I used in my 318 Polara, I know not for eveybody but it does the job.

Alan


2014-01-20_004.jpg

I am having no luck finding anyone who has the champion ec1635 in stock... Any suggestions?
 
you are the man alan --

FYI

I had tried to order one from "andys auto parts" who cliamed they had one in stock, but I could not get a reliable confirmation email from them and I could not reach ANYONE on the phone for over 3 days and finally gave up-- they had a continuous looped recorded message that took you nowhere. I got nervous and did an internet search and it appears that tone of people had major issues with them. They seem to like taking orders and money and then they either send the part months later or they send the wrong part and then it is damn near impossible to get in touch with them to rectify the problem...luckily, I was able to cancel the order, but thought I would relay an experience about them.
 
First off, copper and brass do not go brittle with time - I know, I've been a plumber since 1974.
Get in touch with someone who really knows how to solder and remove the upper tank. Have the
mating surfaces cleaned well and tinned. Remount the tank and solder properly. All you really
need is 50/50 solder but don't use that new "green" crap with more tin than lead.
 
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