Voltage regulator

[Big_John]

I used a dual relay system. one for LB and one for HB wired directly to the battery on a fuse. The headlight switch simply controls the relays now. All the headlight wiring was increased to 12g fiberglass insulated motor wire and new blade connectors installed. I do however intend to install the power seats and windows and later a better radio and amp, but the radio portion will never be run through the bulkhead. I guess I will check it for now, but probably leave it if all seems in good shape...but probably rewire the entire car down the road.

I like to use a circuit breaker rather than a fuse for the headlights. Once a fuse blows, it's dark... The breaker will reset itself.

 

[swisherred]

I like to use a circuit breaker rather than a fuse for the headlights. Once a fuse blows, it's dark... The breaker will reset itself.

actually now that I think about it...I did use a breaker...20 or 30 amp I think...cant remember.

 

[fins2fuselage]

Just to add my two cents: I bought an electronic replacement VR for my (now sold) '61 Newport. Unbeknownst to me, it had NO FUSE incorporated into it. Add to this recipe a heavy downpour and the result was Wiring Harness Flambe'. Don't let this happen to you: order one with a fuse or install a fuse in the circuit upstream of the regulator!

 

[3175375]

Just to add my two cents: I bought an electronic replacement VR for my (now sold) '61 Newport. Unbeknownst to me, it had NO FUSE incorporated into it. Add to this recipe a heavy downpour and the result was Wiring Harness Flambe'. Don't let this happen to you: order one with a fuse or install a fuse in the circuit upstream of the regulator!

The voltage regulator that controls the alternator demands milliamperes of current. Remember, it is energizing the field only requires a small current, similar to the coil on a headlight relay, which enables larger currents to pass through the contacts... Maybe your wiring Fire was interrelated...

 

[Frank Odenthal]

Dual relay is simple to install.
But still my headlights are slightly dimming when brake lights are on. 1966 300 has 4 brake Bulbs a 21 watt in the back. Bypassed the amnameter as well.

 

[fins2fuselage]

The voltage regulator that controls the alternator demands milliamperes of current. Remember, it is energizing the field only requires a small current, similar to the coil on a headlight relay, which enables larger currents to pass through the contacts... Maybe your wiring Fire was interrelated...

No, it was pretty straightforward: due to the placement of the regulator, it filled up with water as I sat in the rain waiting for a parade to begin and, when I started the car to join the parade, water+electrical current-fuse=poof. Always be sure to buy a fused regulator --- or ad one in line.

 

[Bvmarchisotto]

I used a dual relay system. one for LB and one for HB wired directly to the battery on a fuse. The headlight switch simply controls the relays now. All the headlight wiring was increased to 12g fiberglass insulated motor wire and new blade connectors installed. I do however intend to install the power seats and windows and later a better radio and amp, but the radio portion will never be run through the bulkhead. I guess I will check it for now, but probably leave it if all seems in good shape...but probably rewire the entire car down the road.

Is there a thread for this headlight relay wiring? Currently doing the ammeter bypass and converting the ammeter to a volt gauge. I still think I will have issues with the headlight dimming though as I have tested with a temporary wire from the alternator to the starter relay. This may be the ticket I need to do as I can't stand the lights dimming at idle.

Thanks

 

[Bvmarchisotto]

Dual relay is simple to install.
But still my headlights are slightly dimming when brake lights are on. 1966 300 has 4 brake Bulbs a 21 watt in the back. Bypassed the amnameter as well.

View attachment 377457

Is there a thread on this install?

 

[Big_John]

Is there a thread for this headlight relay wiring? Currently doing the ammeter bypass and converting the ammeter to a volt gauge. I still think I will have issues with the headlight dimming though as I have tested with a temporary wire from the alternator to the starter relay. This may be the ticket I need to do as I can't stand the lights dimming at idle.

Thanks

This is how I did it. Headlight Relays with Hidden Headlights

There are some pre-wired kits, some good, some not. Some are way overpriced, but it's really pretty simple stuff. Ignore the parts about the hidden lights in the thread.

 

[Bvmarchisotto]

This is how I did it. Headlight Relays with Hidden Headlights

There are some pre-wired kits, some good, some not. Some are way overpriced, but it's really pretty simple stuff. Ignore the parts about the hidden lights in the thread.

Awesome! Thanks for the write up! I will try and get an inventory together and get some parts ordered.

 

[fins2fuselage]

I have simply silver-soldered the contacts in my headlight switch together and installed a an appropriate-amperage inline fuse immediately after the switch --- problem solved.

And I have simply wired a 30 A self-resetting breaker into the ammeter circuit (and another into the accessory circuit). Along with a bulkhead connector bypass for those two circuits --- again, problem solved.

I have never again had another moment's problem from any of these circuits in my 1970 300.

Jeff

 

[Mike66Chryslers]

I used a dual relay system. one for LB and one for HB wired directly to the battery on a fuse. The headlight switch simply controls the relays now. All the headlight wiring was increased to 12g fiberglass insulated motor wire and new blade connectors installed. I do however intend to install the power seats and windows and later a better radio and amp, but the radio portion will never be run through the bulkhead. I guess I will check it for now, but probably leave it if all seems in good shape...but probably rewire the entire car down the road.

If you installed relays for the headlights then you're protecting your headlight switch from excessive current, which is good. However, you said you wired the power to the relays/headlights directly from the BATTERY, which means the current is still flowing through the bulkhead connector and ammeter. You should rewire it so the headlight power comes directly from the BAT terminal on the alternator.

 

[fins2fuselage]

I like to use a circuit breaker rather than a fuse for the headlights. Once a fuse blows, it's dark... The breaker will reset itself.

Good point. I guess this hadn't occurred to me since the car never had a problem with the headlight circuit until the breaker inside the headlight switch failed.

You should have seen it happening; it was quite dramatic. On a car with hidden headlights such as the 300, not only do the headlights blink off and on but the headlight doors start closing and opening wildly as if the car is possessed. I thought that it was channeling "Christine"!